Six Questions for:

John Civitello, Food & Beverage Director at El Cortez

Sam Morris

John Civitello, El Cortez’s food and beverage director, says business is down at his steakhouse but up at the much-less-expensive cafe.

By Liz Benston (contact)

Monday, Aug. 10, 2009 | 2 a.m.

Map of El Cortez

600 Fremont Street , Las Vegas

Headlines from the Vegas gaming industry

While many casinos have turned restaurants into profit centers, El Cortez has maintained a Las Vegas tradition of serving food at a loss. Food & Beverage Director and MGM Grand veteran John Civitello has negotiated with vendors to reduce food losses at the downtown casino, although his primary concern is keeping gamblers happily fed.

How did you get into this business?

When I was 13 I asked my dad for an allowance and he said, “If you want money, get a job,” so I became a restaurant dishwasher. In my early 20s I went to engineering school, but slide rules and drawing tables weren’t my cup of tea. This business is a daily challenge, but I love what I do.

How do you motivate people?

I tell them to act as if their family is coming to the restaurant. When you’re on duty you can’t have a bad day and you can make a customer’s bad day better. You’ve got to smile and make it sincere. You need to know how food is prepared and be fluent in your presentation. You acknowledge customers even if you’re busy, and you bring their cocktail right away. You can’t overcome poor service with great food.

How has the economy affected business?

The cafe business is up, the steakhouse is down. It takes a lot of coffee shop business to make up the loss when your average check is $9. The steak house average is $33. People are saving that for special occasions. Our slot business is OK.

Are customers more or less discriminating?

Many have been coming here for years and notice every nuance. They will say, “Did you change the breading on the catfish?” or, “Are you bringing back the beef barley soup?”

What’s it like working for a smaller operation?

If I need to buy equipment or hire someone, I can deal directly with the owners. At MGM I’d have to go through several layers of management. By the time I got all the approvals, it would be too late or I’d lost interest. We’re hands-on here. I get involved with the chefs in menu development and purchasing. If the slot department needs something, I’ll jump in and do it. We take over for each other when we can.

What’s the biggest change in your industry?

Celebrity chefs. MGM wanted to bring in Tom Colicchio to replace the Brown Derby, a customer favorite. I didn’t understand that, but it became successful. It’s a different world, but you’re still serving customers like Joe Sixpack from Milwaukee. Are the people who go to Mandalay Bay for a $16 hamburger going there for a great burger or because they saw it on the Food Network? I’ll put my $6 hamburger against anyone’s.

Discussion: 7 comments so far…

By pacman720

8/10/09 at 8:48 a.m.

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A refreshing point of view...Make your food a loss leader to get gamblers through the doors...what a concept!!
By BorisR

8/10/09 at 11:02 a.m.

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I have been visiting the El Cortez for years now. The El Cortez is usually my first hotel where I go through the first few days to overcome my jetlag. Since they removed some slots and replaced them with new slots and have a much better air conditioning, the El Cortez is a great place to visit. The rooms are clean and really good, there's hardly never a long wait at the check-in and the steak house is an excellent restaurant. Great value! I sometimes played B-J and noticed that the dealers are not always that professional. Very uncertain and some don't speak much English, but it's ok. I think the El Cortez is a true downtown jewel. Great value and old Vegas alive :)
From Switzerland
By Slyvnr

8/10/09 at 2:39 p.m.

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I travel to Vegas 4-6 times per year with a group of guys (5-15 depending on who all we can get together).

These Texas Boys enjoy El Cortez...the staff is always professional, helpful and willing to go out of their way to make our stay fun.

Food at Cafe El Cortez (used to be Kitty's Cafe) is low cost and GOOOOOOOOOD. Try the Matza Ball soup. The burgers are delicious and the Steak and Eggs could not be better.

The Flame (again was Roberta's Steakhouse) has the BEST Lobster Tails in TOWN! Excellent Steaks and very well priced.

Keep up the great work Mr. Civitello. Look forward to being in El Cortez end of this month!!!
By Nicki_Capo

8/10/09 at 3:39 p.m.

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Hi Mr Civitello!
Great job! You understand todays economy and getting that return customer, quality food, gambling and great service! Can't wait to try one of those Burgers!
Nicki
By gonefishin65

8/11/09 at 3:23 a.m.

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I was walking around the Cortez back to downtown with 7 dimes on me, I thought I was gonna get killed. The bums and freaks around there can sense fear, sense money! Needless to say I was scared! A lot better feeling being there with $50 on me, they can mug me and get 50 that's it! And you don't look like you have money so they mostly leave you alone. And I appreciate the good food at the cafe, nice people, regular people that are just making ends meet, you don't see rich jerkoffs there, I hate rich people! Let the rich go to Encore and blow $800 on dinner, that is their thing! I had to wash dishes for 1 week when I was 18 for a summer job, to be a busboy everyone first had to wash dishes! I'd rather be dead than work like that, so be nice to everyone that has crap jobs like that, maybe it's not their fault their lot in life. God that was hard work, the water at 150 degrees burning you, messy stinky sewer smell everywhere, I lost all interest in food. It still bothers me.
By OG

8/11/09 at 7:45 p.m.

Suggest removal

Old man Jackie never sold out.

I respect what he has built.

It may not be fancy, but it still functions well.

And these days, it is looking better due to its renovation. And it still offers its "low brow" customers (like me!) a square deal.

Cortez Rocks!!
By BorisR

8/11/09 at 8:19 p.m.

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i wished the good old Vegas Club or Plaza would follow the same principles such as the El Cortez. It would be fun spending a few days in downtown then. But Plaza and Vegas club management sucks big league so I'll stay at the El Cortez and have my fun. Too bad, though, there's no swimming pool at the El Cortez. If they had one, I'd probably spend my entire vacation at that property.
Greetings from Switzerland

Boris