Friday, Jan. 7, 2005 | 8:30 a.m.
San Francisco put its best foot forward the first few days of my vacation -- and then the rains came.
Travel today is arduous, no matter how short the flight, but I was prepared for the security checkpoint. I'd followed all the suggestions offered by a travel expert on NBC's "Today" show.
In my carry-on was a pair of shoes and my handbag. In lieu of my usual bra I wore a wireless sports bra. Going through the sensor was a cinch. And I didn't have to step on the carpets.
Our departure and arrival on America West was smooth and easy. I'd barely finished my crossword puzzle when we arrived. There was a wait for the baggage, but we were content. My traveling companion and I were dreaming about splendid holiday dinners, shopping the after-Christmas sales and the movies we would see.
We were staying at the new Four Seasons hotel on Market Street. Surrounded by shops, the Museum of Modern Art and the Metreon movie complex and with an easy walk to Union Square, all was right in our world. The hotel was busy, but we weren't in a hurry.
After unpacking we made our way around the hotel, looking for all the artwork listed in our brochure. It was beautiful and, as it turned out, was the only art tour we made.
We opted for a room-service dinner so we could plot our course of action for the next day, Christmas Eve. The view from our connecting rooms was glorious. My spacious room had picture windows. A comfy lounge chair with a hassock was ideal for reading.
Nested in for the evening, we were content to study our city maps and plot the next day's course. We were dining at Hubert and Chantal Keller's venerable Fleur de Lys restaurant.
Fleur de Lys was recently redecorated and refurbished after a devastating kitchen fire. It is Old World beautiful, with fabric-swagged ceilings and luxurious draperies. A yule tree was the centerpiece among all of the flowers.
A prix fixe dinner included an appetizer plate with so many good things to eat. A portion of oven-roasted red and yellow beet salad was enhanced with essence of cumin and coriander and a small oval of frozen mint cream. An assortment of seared rare tuna included chestnut fondant with truffle salad, foie gras on braised leeks and smoked duck terrine.
A trio of small local Dungeness crab dishes included a tiny cup of creamy crab bisque, crab strudel and a small crab cake. We reveled in the many imaginative and delicious flavors.
A champagne rose sorbet (not sweet) was true to the flavor of the champagne. Such restraint. It was the perfect bridge to our entree.
Choices included a boneless quail stuffed with braised oxtail, spinach and pine nuts served atop a ring of soft polenta with a spicy nutmeg sauce; a duo of veal tenderloin and veal shank Parmentier scented with a carrot and cardamom essence; marinated venison loin on salsify puree with a star anise, orange zest and red wine reduction; and a traditional filet mignon Rossini topped with foie gras and served with black truffles and black truffle sauce.
My friend chose the quail; my choice was the veal duo. Both were wonderful. The quail was stuffed until it was as plump as the birds that used to strip my cherry trees, then sated would fall to the ground. My veal was fork tender. The cylinder of marrow that accompanied it was divine.
All through dinner the management staff shared memories of other holiday feasts at Fleur de Lys. Owners Hubert and Chantal Keller and Maurice Rouas have so many stories to tell.
Most interesting to me was the age mix of the guests. Young and seasoned diners, beautifully dressed, were having a grand time.
In the kitchen with Chef Hubert were Executive Chef Rick Richardson and Sous Chef Umberto Garcia. On the floor were dining-room managers Lilah Reneiro, Marcus Garcia and Clay Renoles. Quite a team.
Dessert was a tour de force for Pastry Chef Gilberto Villareal. Each year a different mini buche de Noel is presented along with other sweet treats. A dinner-size plate included what appeared to be a frosted round candle holder. It did indeed hold a candle, but this charming conceit was a layered wonton skin that had been deep fried, brushed with sugar syrup then opened to hold the candle. We removed the candle and ate the edible shell.
The buche de Noel was a beauty, flavored with tequila mousse and tangerine, and had a small bonus -- homemade dark chocolate ice cream. There was more. The entire plate was filled in with Fleur de Lys Christmas cookies and chocolates.
It was a memorable repast.
During a recent conversation with Chef Hubert, I learned that the veal duo would soon be appearing on the menu at Fleur de Lys at Mandalay Bay.
For more information or reservations (a must) call (415) 673-7779 or (415) 673-7707.
More San Francisco dining to follow.
Short orders
Winemaker's dinner: Roy's Summerlin and J. Lohr winemaker Jeff Meier will present a winemaker's dinner at 7 p.m. Jan. 18.
Dinner price is $75 per person (does not include tax or gratuity). Included are mesquite-smoked Petaluma duck breast salad with watercress and blood orange vinaigrette, a dim sum sampler, pink peppercorn-crusted Hawaiian walu, Hawaiian-style adobo pork osso buco and butter-steamed Alaskan king crab legs, and the chef's cheese trio -- desserts with different cheeses. Four wines will accompany dinner; a reserve port will be poured with dessert.
Ultimate steak-lover's wine: Smith & Wollensky founder Alan Stillman was determined to find the ideal pairing for a steak dinner at his American classic steakhouse restaurants. Stillman's "Eureka!" came about when he seemed to find the answer in Napa Valley at Girard Winery, where the Smith & Wollensky Private Reserve Napa Valley wine was created.
It is a rich, flavorful blend of cabernet sauvignon, cabernet franc and merlot. This Smith & Wollensky wine is on the lists of all the steakhouses and can also be purchased online at www.smithandwollensky.com for $29. The Nov. 15 Wine Spectator rates this wine 87 out of 100 nationwide.
Competitive eating goes downtown: The Plaza is looking to set records at 1 p.m. on Jan. 22, when competitors attempt to devour the humongous 9-pound Barrick Burger. Many of the nation's major contenders will attempt this gluttonous coup. My money's on 105-pound Sonya Thomas of Alexandria, Va., the No. 1-ranked eater in America.
Of course, Las Vegas' own Rich "The Locust" LeFevre, No. 3 in the entire world (so says a news release) is a strong challenger. For more information call 386-2110. A 9-pound burger and big-bucks prizes: a tasty combo.
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