Friday, Aug. 19, 2005 | 8:29 a.m.
It's a rare occasion when a food or wine magazine is so compelling that I can't put it down. Wine Spectator's September issue with its Encyclopedia of Food is enthralling.
"Keep this issue in your kitchen. Our Encyclopedia of Food will answer all your questions about selecting and preparing just about everything you eat and drink," Marvin L. Shanken, editor and publisher, writes in the introduction.
Written with home cooks and wine lovers in mind, Wine Spectator experts, led by Executive Editor Thomas Matthews, have created "a user-friendly reference on all things related to food," as Thomas says.
Included are sections on meat, deli meat and poultry. The section devoted to seafood includes a centerpiece listing fish to buy and fish to avoid. Produce, dairy, bread basics, chocolate, oil and vinegar, coffee and tea and pantry (dry goods, herbs, spices and such) and kitchen equipment are covered.
This issue of Wine Spectator has been in the works for a long time, according to Shanken and Matthews. This could become an annual event if reader feedback is positive. Visit winespectator.com or call (212) 684-4065.
More Wine Spectator: Good to the last drop: The Jacques Pepin interview by Wine Spectator Senior Editor Dana Nigro.
Pepin, who arrived in the United States in 1960, says, "There were no shallots, olive oil, different types of vinegar, no herbs." His comments about wine, TV food coverage and reality shows on food are pithy, witty and to the point. Read it.
King's Fish House: All but one of the seven King's Fish House restaurants are in California. King's Fish House in The District at Green Valley Ranch was the first property to cross the California border. It won't be the last. The family-owned chain is heading east.
My first King's dining experience was in July in San Diego. I wanted fish, fresh, well-prepared, preservative-free fish. Yes, there are many fish restaurants in San Diego, but I wanted a Philadelphia- or Boston-style fish eatery. In the end my friend and I settled for King's Fish House.
While I muttered about chain restaurants, she scanned the menu. "It's very reasonable." I was not assured.
We were dining mid-afternoon. King's was not crowded. Our server was informed and charming. She answered my questions and artfully steered me away from a few dishes that didn't meet her standards. It was a skillful performance. We ordered a mixed bag of dishes: we shared shrimp potstickers, plump and tasty; one picatta-style soft shell crab; eastern sea scallops and Alaskan sand dabs (without the Parmesan crust).
It was a pleasant, tasty meal. We shared a slice of key lime pie garnished with real whipped cream.
It was August before we were able to dine at King's in The District at Green Valley Ranch. Reservations are not required at King's restaurants; reservations are accepted for only a third of the tables. Walk-ins are encouraged. The District location has outdoor dining space almost as large as the San Diego restaurant. It is always busy.
In addition to the regular menu there is a separate King sushi selection.
We ordered the same meal we'd ordered in San Diego. Each of the King restaurants has a cook and a book of recipes. Although he/she is required to follow the recipes some culinary licence is permitted. The potstickers were not as plump; the soft shell-crab was about the same and so were the scallops.
King's vegetable's are quite good. Our favorites were the steamed broccoli, the sauteed spinach and the garlic mashed potatoes.
The pastry chef was a bit more artistic with the whipped cream on our key lime pie. Squiggles and swirls in place of the San Diego dollop. Both were delicious.
The staff was, again, excellent.
King's Fish House hours: 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Sundays through Thursdays; 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. Fridays and Saturdays.
Short orders
Center Stage goes Italian: Center Stage restaurant at the Plaza, downtown, has launched a new menu with an Italian chophouse theme. Some Center Stage favorites remain, including the 26-ounce porterhouse, prime rib and Australian lobster tail.
Chef Michael Njorge revamped the menu, adding veal saltimbocca, zuppa di pesce, linguine with clams shrimp Biaggio. The glass-domed Center Stage restaurant offers a clear view of the Fremont Street Experience, live entertainment in the lounge and a bar menu. Dinner is served nightly, 5:30 to 10:30. Lounge hours are from 4 p.m. to 11 p.m. For Center Stage reservations call 385-2512.
Montelago Village Wine Walk: New Vista Community will be the recipient of funds raised at Wine Walk at Lake Las Vegas on Saturday. For $20 per person you'll receive a logo wine glass, a Village Passport and taste many wines in participating shops throughout MonteLago Village.
Special room rates for those staying overnight. Call the information line for additional information -- 564-4766.
Gaylord India restaurant: Gaylord India restaurant at the Rio resort will wrap up its week long celebration in honor of Indian Independence Day on Saturday. All guests will receive a 10-percent discount in honor of the historic day. A price-fixed Thali dinner or Thali vegetarian dinner is offered ($29.95). For more information call 777-2277.
Oktoberfest at Hofbrauhaus: Hofbrauhaus Las Vegas will kick off Oktoberfest on Sept. 17 with the annual keg-tapping ceremony. Festivities continue through Oct. 31. At 7 p.m. each Friday a new keg of seasonal beer will be tapped. This year's activities include special Bavarian music, stein painting, spatzle-making demonstrations, a book signing, soft sculpture exhibit and an ice cream giveaway. For more information visit hofbrauhauslasvegas.com or call 853-2337.
Lettuce Entertain You: Lettuce Entertain You Enterprises and Icon Restaurant Groups has named Kathleen Spurney director of catering sales for all Las Vegas restaurants. Spurney will handle all group bookings for Joe's Seafood, Prime Steak & Stone Crab at the Forum Shops at Caesars; Cafe Ba Ba Reeba at the Fashion Show mall; Eiffel Tower and Mon Ami Gabi at Paris Las Vegas and Maggiano's Little Italy (a partnership with Brinker International) at the Fashion Show.
Spurney was previously Director of Sales and Marketing for Crustacean restaurant at Desert Passage mall at the Aladdin.
Happy birthday centenarian: Laurette Rathz will celebrate her 103rd birthday Tuesday, surrounded by family, friends and staff at Atria Seville, where she lives.
This remarkable centenarian has studied voice and piano and had a career in opera in Chicago, her hometown. She has lived in Las Vegas for 16 years. Undaunted by her age, she still pursues her favorite hobby, fishing, and still goes once a week during fishing season.
Atria activities director Patty Allbrook says Laurette is amazing and as bright as can be. The theme Allbrook chose this year, "When You're 103 and Still Smiling," will be carried out on the birthday cake, a white cake covered with yellow smiley faces.
Happy birthday, Laurette, and may you need a new fishing license next year.
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