Friday, Sept. 24, 2004 | 8:42 a.m.
The front door had not yet been attached to the entrance of Hubert Keller's handsome new Fleur de Lys restaurant at Mandalay Bay when I arrived Tuesday morning. It didn't seem possible that the restaurant would be ready to serve dinner that night, but it was.
Inside the restaurant all was calm and serene. And so was Keller. He and his wife and business partner, Chantal, are a wonderful team. They fought their way back after a fire devastated their beloved Fleur de Lys in San Francisco.
They were heartened by the response from their loyal patrons, who kept in touch throughout the rebuilding process. Most wonderful of all, most of the original staff returned, including the chefs. It was a good time for the Kellers.
So why did they decide to build a restaurant in Las Vegas?
"I never thought of it," said Keller, "but I have a lot of friends in Las Vegas and I visited here many times. I came to have a sense of it. When the opportunity came up we put our hearts and soul into it."
It took two years to design and build Fleur de Lys. Through it all, Keller and I kept in touch. But until Tuesday, I had not a clue as to what the resourceful and bold restaurateur had been considering.
Fleur de Lys Las Vegas was designed by Stanlee Gatti, who had never before designed a restaurant. Gatti is a special events expert whose extravagant events have made him a celebrated and successful personality. Every detail is scrutinized and reconsidered until he attains what he deems perfection.
There is no glitz, but there is plenty of drama at Fleur de Lys. Soaring 30-foot walls of cultured stone and wood are accented with leaf-shaped frames massed with fresh-cut roses that must be refreshed every few days.
Perhaps it was just my imagination, but the delicate rose fragrance seemed to waft through the room.
Gatti's imprimatur is on everything from the glorious floral china design to the luxurious table linens. I'm crazy about the European-size, custom-made napkins and tablecloths. Woven into the silky damask are Keller's and the restaurant's name. The snow-white linens were made in France by Garnier Thiebaut.
A small lounge near the entrance seats up to 20. Have a drink, have an appetizer from the lounge menu or order a meal from the dining room menu. Four private cabanas that seat four to six diners can, by the removal of the side curtains, become a private dining room for up to 20.
The kitchen, designed by nationally acclaimed kitchen designer Mark Stech-Novak, is spectacular. Large picture windows give the chefs a view of the trees and greenery. So beautiful. Countertops are made of the most elegant granite. This is an exceptionally lovely restaurant kitchen.
Fleur de Lys' menu follows the format of San Francisco -- three-course ($68), four-course ($76) or five-course ($88) -- except that every dish is different. The food choices are wonderful. Diners are not restricted. A typical three-course menu includes an appetizer, entree and dessert. Choose from a fish, crustacean and mollusk selection or the meat, poultry and game selection.
The wine list is well chosen and interesting. Offered are wines in a wide price range. Sommelier Michelle Moray is the wine director. Fleur de Lys general manager is Philippe Tosques; executive chef is Laurent Pillard; sous chefs are Bill Mannes and David Chaveau; executive pastry chef is Raoul Villa.
Fleur de Lys hours are 5:30 to 10:30 p.m. nightly. For reservations call 632-9400 or reserve online at www.opentable.com.
Oktoberfest in Vegas
Anthony Gibson, brewmaster at the Monte Carlo Pub and Brewery, has created an Oktoberfest beer that is available now through Oct. 31. This malty, amber-colored, Vienna-style lager gets its complexity from imported German malted barley and several weeks of cold maturation (lagering). Available in many sizes, including the 5-liter giraffe ($28.95) and the souvenir German-made glass growler with a sealed top, filled with 2-liters of beer ($45). A growler is a to-go item.
Gordon Biersch Brewery Restaurant at 3987 Paradise Road in the Hughes Center will present its annual Oktoberfest celebration from 6 p.m. to midnight today and from 2 p.m. to midnight Saturday. Housed in a huge tent on the parking lot, this Oktoberfest bash features bratwurst sandwiches and platters, turkey legs, Bavarian pretzels, garlic fries, plenty of beer, live music, a beer garden, food court and more. Inside, the restaurant will offer a limited Oktoberfest menu and seasonal Fest Bier. Admission is free; families are welcome.
The Cannery in North Las Vegas at the corner of Craig and Losee roads is hosting Rocktoberfest from 5 p.m. to 11 p.m. today and Saturday. Admission is $5 (does not include food or drinks). Traditional German dishes -- knocks and chops (smoked pork chop); Weiner Schnitzel a la Holstein; grilled kielbasa sausage served with German potato salad, braised red cabbage and spaetzle and breaded pork scallopini with brown butter and caper and parsley sauce. A bottomless mug of Spaten beer, along with live entertainment, is $15.
Oompah bands and authentic German dishes, along with Oktoberfest specials at lunch and dinner, are being served up at Hofbrauhaus at 4510 Paradise Road (across from the Hard Rock Hotel). Through Oct. 31, enjoy a bit of old world Oktoberfest revelry and food. For more information call 853-2337. Reservations are advised for dinner. Service is from 11 a.m.
Steiner's, A Nevada Style pub, will celebrate Oktoberfest from 2 p.m. to 11 p.m. Saturday at its 8410 W. Cheyenne Ave. location. The event will include cold beer, live music, a dunk tank and a surf machine. Dine on Steiner's signature fare, including a lamb chop appetizer, Kobe beef burgers, Death Valley chips and the award-winning sirloin black bean chili. A large imported and domestic beer selection is complemented by microbrews. For more information about Steiner locations call 395-8777.
Mount Charleston Lodge is serving up Oktoberfest meals every weekend now through Oct. 24. This is a beautiful time of year at Mount Charleston Lodge. Enjoy typical Oktoberfest fare, buffet style. Lunch is $14.95 per person, dinner is $18 per person and children under 12 are $9.50. Live music and a wide array of German foods prepared by Chef Yves Menez will be offered. For directions, reservations and more information call 872-5408 or visit www.mtcharleston- lodge.com.
Prix fixe dinner at FIX: A new three-course prix fixe dinner at Bellagio's hip new FIX restaurant is ideal for "O" goers. Available nightly from 5 p.m. to 6 p.m., the $40 dinner includes a choice of roasted tomato soup with a mini-grilled cheese sandwich or an organic field greens salad and a choice of prime rib or roasted chicken or hand-cut pasta and a seasonal fruit cobbler. For reservations call 693-8400.
Wine dinners
Paris Las Vegas and Bon Appetit magazine join forces to present a dinner with St. Francis wines at Les Artistes Steakhouse at 7:30 p.m. Oct. 7. The splendid five courses and dessert costs $150 per person (includes gratuity and tax). St. Francis Sonoma County Port 2001 will be poured with dessert. For reservations call 967-7999 or visit [email protected].
Roy's Summerlin is offering a five-course dinner with Fess Parker wines at 7 p.m. Oct. 5. Space is limited. Dinner price is $75 per person plus gratuity and tax. For reservations call 838-3620.
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