Friday, May 21, 2004 | 8:35 a.m.
In a city where extraordinary fund-raisers for worthy causes are a way of life, the Alzheimer's benefit at The Mirage on Saturday was a standout, raising more than $5 million. Paraphrasing Wolfgang Puck's motto, "Love, Live, Eat, Remember, Keep Memory Alive," was just one of the many innovations.
Puck was honored for his many contributions to the Alzheimer's cause, dating from the very beginning.
Hosts for Keep Memory Alive were founding members Larry Ruvo, Bobby Baldwin, Kenny Epstein and Maddy Graves. Chairing the event were Donna Baldwin, Harry Morton, Michael Severino and Anna Cohen. It was a glorious event.
The chefs, all stellar culinarians, mingled with the guests and posed for photos. Who was cooking? All of them. They had arrived early in the day with the prep work done and were ready to have fun. Imagine Paul Bocuse, Alain Ducasse, Thomas Keller, Nobu Matsuhisa, Alessandro Stratta, Charlie Palmer, David Robins, Charlie Trotter and Daniel Boulud cooking in four different kitchens.
Even more exciting -- all of them either have restaurants in Las Vegas, are opening one soon or are "working on something."
Pinch me, I must be dreaming.
The reception was a kick. Robins and the executive chefs of the Spago Fine Dining Group -- JohnLaGrone (Postrio), Mark Ferguson (Trattoria del Lupo) and Scott Irestone (Chinois) -- offered nibbles of dungeness crab salad with spiced mango, smoked salmon pizza with beluga caviar, Hudson Valley foie gras torchon with Braeburn apple compote and Szechuan duck with scallion pancakes.
Nobu (New York, London, Las Vegas) was in rare form. While his staff offered such toothsome Nobu specialities as the signature black cod, seared toro with osetra caviar karashi-su-miso and Maine lobster with micro greens, Matsuhisa was chatting with guests and kibbutzing with Thomas Keller, Charlie Trotter and David Boulud. Chefs just want to have fun.
Palmer (Aureole, New York and Las Vegas) tempted with soft-shell crab with sesame soy mayonnaise, asparagus with Parma prosciutto and Parmigiano, spring rolls with avocado, lobster and citrus, chickpea, and bacon and chives "Las Vegas" fries.
Boulud (Daniel, DB Bistro Moderne, Cafe Boulud New York) presented stuffed morels with chicken liver and crayfish, "Big Fat," white asparagus with poached-egg dressing, squab terrine with apricot chutney and tiny lemon "tarte citron" with osetra caviar.
With 650 guests ready, able and willing to bid on the remarkable array of items offered during the silent auction and reception hour, anticipation was high. I doubt that anyone has ever discovered the secret of being the last bidder at a silent auction, yet a steady stream of hopefuls kept checking their bids through dinner.
Dinner was a delight. Beautiful to behold were the hors d'oeuvres, sized perfectly. Keller's (The French Laundry, Yountville; Per Se, New York; Bouchon, Napa Valley and Las Vegas) marinated spring vegetables a la Greque with garden mint, Persian lime salt and cilantro oil was gorgeous. Each tiny vegetable was arranged as if it were a miniature still life. So light, so delicious.
Alex Stratta's (Renoir at The Mirage) gnocchi and spring vegetables was intended for the vegetarians at our table, but they raved so much about this dish we carnivores asked for a taste. The gnocchi were ethereal potato puffs that melted on the tongue. Remarkable.
Trotter's (Charlie Trotter's, Chicago) Maine diver sea scallops and tiny squid almost didn't make it to the table. Somewhere in transit the package was lost. It took a late-night call to a top executive of the express company to get the food there in time. Through it all Trotter was one cool cat. One tiny squid capped the large, tender sea scallop with celery-and-fennel-infused apple vinaigrette.
Ducasse (Alain Ducasse at the Essex House and Mix, New York) paired his filet of striped sea bass with a mushroom marmalade that exuded the rich earthy flavor of the fungi. It was enhanced by the Chateau Chalon sauce that surrounded the tender striped bass.
Dinner ended in a blaze of glory with the boned stuffed quail with foie gras and Perigord truffles created by Bocuse (Paul Bocuse, Lyon, France, and Chefs de France, Orlando, Fla.). The elegant pastry-encased bird was so tender and flavorful; it was irresistible.
Stratta's dessert, a Napoleon of roasted peaches with creme fraiche and sangria sorbet, was light and delicate; a delectable ending.
Wines with dinner: Dom Perignon 1996, Bernkasteler Doctor Reisling Spatlese 2001, Ferrari-Carano Reserve Chardonnay 2001, Dominus 1996 and Chateau Mouton-Rothschild 1995.
When asked for his reaction to this memorable evening, Larry Ruvo responded, "I felt like I was in the world's largest dining room, yet it was the most intimate dining experience I've ever had."
Ruvo captured the essence of the dinner when I asked what the plans were for next year's "Keep Memory Alive" fund-raiser.
"Let me enjoy the top of this mountain right now," he said. "I'm still overwhelmed by the support of the sublime chefs, the wineries and the extraordinary efforts by The Mirage. Only in Las Vegas, in this caring, loving community, could an event like this happen."
And so it was.
More Mirage: Get ready for Cravings, which is billed as the "ultimate buffet dining experience."
Cravings will open shortly at The Mirage. Designed by the internationally acclaimed restaurant designer and architect Adam Tihany, this one-of-a-kind concept is more than a buffet. Each station is a self-contained unit where foods are cooked to order as you watch. Yes, you can make the rounds and gather foods from each station, but if you want a complete Chinese, Japanese, Italian or Mexican meal (there are many more choices) the stations will supply everything from soup to nuts.
It's difficult to describe, yet Cravings promises to be a hot ticket. Breakfast costs $12.50, lunch $17.50, and dinner and Saturday and Sunday champagne brunches are $20.50. The sparkling wine served at brunch is Chateau St. Michelle.
Mother's Day surprise for Toni Hart: Toni Hart was away for a few days. That was all son Larry Hart needed to turn their home into a Mother's Day tribute. Easy to do when you live at Hartland, a mansion that is both home and business. Hartland arranges weddings, parties and any event requested by a client.
It was to be a surprise, this Mother's Day lunch May 8, and it was. Sixty-four guests remained mum until Toni arrived. A friend, Debbie Myers, brought her home. Larry was waiting. They walked into the grand entry where all the guests were arranged on the dramatic twin staircases. Primed by Larry, who had written his own lyrics to a Mother's Day melody, guests broke into song. Among the guests awaiting Toni's arrival were daughter Linda Hart and her husband, William Forster, who came from New York, son Garry and a family friend, Beverly Hills.
Before going into the grand party room there were champagne toasts, picture taking and hugs.
Larry's Botanica party design company created seven separate party themes. Soirees caterers prepared the delicious lunch: walnut and Gorgonzola salad, grilled salmon with a dill cream sauce and, for dessert, English trifle with berries and peaches.
Later the guests moved into the music room where Larry and Linda (she recently completed 18 months on Broadway in "Hairspray") entertained. It was a lovely afternoon that ended with gift bags for the guests; a final souvenir of the tribute to Toni.
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