Friday, Oct. 24, 2003 | 8:36 a.m.
On Sept. 16 Bradley Ogden and his cadre of young chefs welcomed members of the Las Vegas chapter of the Chaine des Rotisseurs with a dinner that will long be remembered.
Bradley Ogden, the restaurant, is situated across from The Colosseum at Caesars Palace. Bradley Ogden, the chef/owner, is known for his innovative cuisine, a splendid mix that reflects Ogden's California and Midwest styles.
As chef and co-owner of the nine restaurants that make up the California-based Lark Creek Restaurant Group, Ogden is renowned for his authentic American cuisine. With a network of American farmers, ranchers and fishermen to call upon, there is no limit to the farm-fresh ingredients that are in his reach.
The Chaine dinner was limited to 80 members only. It sold out immediately. There were no dropouts. Bailli (president) Larry Ruvo kept the waiting list until the last minute, but everyone came.
A serious culinarian, Ogden also has a whimsical side. It was evident throughout the elegant dinner.
Passed hors d'oeuvres -- watermelon hamachi, white Silver Queen corn custard with a tiny crisp frog leg and a tomato-and-crab shooter -- were accompanied with Iron Horse Classic Brut, Green Valley -- Sonoma 1997 to titillate the taste buds.
A splendid, five-course tasting dinner included a savory lobster salad with lobster noodles and melon and a savory creme fraiche popper, a lovely burst of flavors. A Chateau Ste. Michelle/Dr. Loosen Eroica Reisling Columbia Valley 2002 was a fine pairing.
Olive oil poached rabbit loin with organic pears and braised iceberg lettuce was a tour de force for the chef. Poaching meats (or fish) in olive oil adds a new dimension. The rabbit was tender and sweet; the oil does not penetrate the meat, yet the flavor is superb. This ancient method of cooking is enjoying a revival. There is no residual oil. It is a clean, flavorful technique.
Cooking the same food in different ways is another conceit that works. Ogden's presentation of cod, steamed and tempura-style, is brilliant. The crispy tomato pudding is irresistible. Paired with the cod was a flinty Brander Sauvignon Blanc, Au Naturel, Santa Ynez 2001.
A tasting of three cuts of Colorado lamb with a goat cheese souffle inspired conversation (in between bites, of course). A bold Arietta Red, H Block -- Hudson Vineyard, Napa Valley 2000 complemented the lamb.
Dessert was a warm-from-the-oven Gravenstein apple tart with bourbon-flavored ice cream and a tiny apple-cinnamon fritter and a glass of Chappelet Moelleux, Napa Valley 1998, a velvety, not-too-sweet white wine.
Menus at Bradley Ogden change daily. All of the dishes presented at the Chaine dinner are from the carte. They may not all be available on the same day, but could probably be ordered with advance notice if in season.
Bradley Ogden restaurant is very much a family affair. Ogden's spouse, Jody, is a partner in each restaurant and a collaborator on Ogden's cookbooks. Son Bryan (the Ogdens have three) is a C.I.A. (Culinary Institute of America) graduate and is the executive sous chef at Bradley Ogden.
Dinner (expensive) is served nightly from 5 p.m. to 11 p.m. Reservations are requested. Call 731-7410.
More Bradley Ogden: It's not too soon to make reservations for Thanksgiving dinner at Bradley Ogden. Ogden's Thanksgiving dinners at his other restaurants are legendary. Service at Bradley Ogden at Caesars Palace will be from noon to 10 p.m. The price is $75 per person; children under 12 are half-price.
Included are an amuse bouche of roasted sugar pumpkin soup with green apple foam; a choice of one of four appetizers, including the signature lobster salad and a Maytag bleu cheese and persimmon souffle; a choice of one of four main courses, including free-range turkey and roasted pork loin with all the traditional fixings; and a choice of one of four desserts. Knowing Bradley, I'm certain there will be many little extras.
Call 731-7410 to reserve.
Short orders
Sin City Beer debuts at TI: Rich Johnson, formerly director of brewery operations for Gordon Biersch, will introduce his two signature brews, Sin City Light and Sin City Amber, tomorrow at TI. Look for the beers produced by Johnson's Sin City Beer Company at the bar at Siren's Cove.
Malibu Chan celebrates 4th anniversary: Malibu Chan at 8125 W. Sahara Ave. will celebrate its 4th anniversary Wednesday from 6 p.m. to 9 p.m., with a number of food and drink specials and entertainment. Malibu Chan's is owned and operated by Hawaiian restaurateurs Cathy and Warren Seta. Terence K. Fong is the executive chef/culinary director. Additional specials are offered Sundays with all-you-can-eat prime rib dinners and Mondays with a Maine lobster (1 1/2 pound) dinner. Price is $19.95. There are many bar specials. Check with the restaurant for availability of these special promotions. Call 312-4267.
Hofbrauhaus Oktoberfest: Hofbrauhaus Oktoberfest in a tent at Terrible's Casino parking lot at Paradise and Flamingo roads ends Oct. 26. Lunch and dinner service from 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. There is a 25 percent discount on all food and beverages during Happy Hour (Monday through Friday 11 a.m. to 5 p.m.). No charge for admission.
Truffle lunch: Tickets are still available for the white truffle luncheon at Piero Selvaggio's Valentino at the Venetian Sunday at 12:30 p.m. Call 414-3033.
Wine dinner at BullShrimp: Australian and New Zealand wines will be featured at Gustav Mauler's BullShrimp restaurant at the Green Valley Ranch Station Casino Oct. 28. A dinner of firecracker salmon, Long Island duck breast, tournedos of beef and short ribs braised in red wine and four wines are included for $55 per person. Does not include tax or tip. Dessert is rhubarb and strawberry pie. Reservations: Call 942-4110.
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