Friday, July 18, 2003 | 9:22 a.m.
Muriel Stevens' dining column appears Fridays. Her shopping and travel columns appear Wednesday. Reach her at (702) 259-4080 or [email protected].
"There once was a fellow named Rocco, and a pigeon who wanted his taco. Said Rocco these words, 'We don't feed the birds, for fear it might bring a flocko.' "
This witty little ditty was on a brightly colored card attached to the umbrella that shaded the patio table at Casa De Bandini, one of the restaurants in Bazaar Del Mundo in San Diego's Old Town. Steeped in history, Casa De Bandini was "Very much a part of the colorful heritage of Early California."
This handsome adobe structure was completed by Juan Bandini in 1829. The original buildings still stand nearby the restaurant.
Bandini had sailed to San Diego from Peru 10 years earlier. At the time California was governed by Mexico, and Bandini had in 1927 received a land grant from the Mexican governor. All of this history is recalled on the sizeable Mexican menu. With so much to read and a carte with so many tempting choices, my dining companions and I decided to opt for a few of the house specialities.
In addition to an outstanding selection of appetizers; meal-size salads; combination plates and such traditional dishes as carne asada; Casa De Bandini features more than a dozen dishes that have been nutritionally evaluated; calories, fat and sodium content are all listed.
There is also a large selection of fresh seafood, so I set my sights on a shrimp dish created by Chef Germain -- San German, seasoned shrimp sauteed in butter and brandy then mixed with a mayonnaise-like dressing and served over rice in a scooped-out pineapple shell. It arrived looking like the prize-winner that it was, having earned a first-place award at the International Ensenada Seafood Competition.
When the server related to the chef that I wanted the creamy sauce on the side, there must have been much eye-rolling in the kitchen. The chef, hoping to change my mind, sent me a small portion of sauce to taste. It was wonderful, but I wanted it on the side, and that's what I got. There's no question that the warm sauce enhanced the dish; I spooned it over some of the shrimp, yet the chef did not quarrel with my decision.
One of my companions ordered the grilled chicken and avocado tacos. How could anything so simple taste so scrumptious? Here's how: Warm, soft, homemade corn tortillas are filled with seasoned strips of grilled chicken breast and thick slices of ripe avocado and served with salsa ranchero, rice and black beans. Every ingredient was so fresh and delicious. Double, over-sized tacos assure that all of the succulent filling is mostly encased. Dig in. This is what comforting foods are all about.
Among the traditional desserts offered are bunelos, deep-fried ice cream and the expected flan. We settled for one dessert to share. Our choice was the hot apple burrito, puffy crisp dough filled with a spicy apple mix sprinkled with cinnamon and topped with vanilla bean ice cream.
Our forks clinked as we devoured this burrito that was like no other we'd tasted. Trust me, I've tasted all the nouvelle Mexican versions from taco twists to the mad, mad combinations that set my teeth on edge. This was special.
Casa De Bandini's summer hours are: Monday through Friday, 11 a.m. to 9:30 p.m.; Saturday, 11 a.m. to 10 p.m.; Sunday, 10 a.m. to 9:30 p.m. For additional information or reservations: (619) 297-8211. Don't miss walking through the gardens and shops in Bazaar Del Mundo. Ole!
New menu at Tre Restaurant: New faces and a new Italian menu have been added to the Maccioni family's Tre Restaurant in Summerlin in the Boca Park Center at 1050 S. Rampart Blvd.
First to come on board was General Manager Miguel Aston. Paola Dorigato is the new executive chef. New to Las Vegas, but not new to the Maccioni family. Dorigato was previously the senior sous chef at Le Cirque and executive chef of Osteria del Circo, New York. Patriarch Sirio Maccioni opened his first restaurant, the venerable New York Le Cirque, in 1974. With his wife, Egi, and sons Mario, Marco and Mauro, he has continued the legend. Mario Maccioni and his wife, Lauren, and their children live in Las Vegas. Mario is the director of the Las Vegas restaurants.
Tre's Italian menu features cold and hot antipasti, a number of pastas (don't miss Mama Egi's ravioli with ricotta and herbs in a sage butter sauce), thin-crusted pizzas, fresh fish and meats and chicken. The catch of the day, Pesce del Giorno al Cartocchio, is prepared with artichokes, potatoes, clams and mussels.
Tre Restaurant opens daily at 4 p.m.; dinner service starts at 5:30 p.m. Happy hour is nightly from 4:30 to 6 p.m. A select drink menu is available at half off regular prices; assorted appetizers are $3. For dinner reservations call 946-6200.
Restaurant openings: Las Vegas will gain more than cooler weather (hopefully) at summer's end and early fall.
New York restaurant mogul Steve Hanson expects his first Las Vegas venture, Fiamma, to open Aug. 28 (give or take a few days), but there's still work to be done. Fiamma is a more casual version of the acclaimed Fiamma New York, and has the same commitment to "excellent food and peerless service in a cool atmosphere." Menus are not yet completed.
Piero Selvaggio's Valentino Restaurant Group will open Caff Giorgio at Mandalay Place in early October. Mandalay Place shopping promenade will link Mandalay Bay and Luxor hotels. Selvaggio calls Caff Giorgio multifunctional. It will feature deli and gelato counters as well as a casual dining room. At the counters, guests will be able to enjoy a quick sandwich, a slice of pizza or gelato. A bright-red, old-style meat slicer displayed on the counter will slice cold cuts to order.
Diners can enjoy a casual meal in a stylish setting with food to match. A handsome oval-shaped bar will seat 17 and feature large plasma monitors for those who fancy a brew with their sporting events. Beyond the bar will be a more intimate dining area. Selected wines from Piero's acclaimed wine collections will be displayed on glass walls.
Caff Giorgio will be open daily from 11 a.m. to midnight. Valentino Corporate Chef/Partner Luciano Pellegrini has created the menus.
More to come as the openings near.
Short orders
Ice House Lounge opens: Ah, Las Vegas -- who knew that the old ice house at 650 S. Main St., where I used to pick up blocks of ice for parties, would one day become the coolest ice house of them all? I missed the opening and many others as I was off on yet another travel adventure, but I can't wait to see this 24/7, South Beach-inspired restaurant/night spot. Breakfast, lunch and dinner service. For more, call 315-2570.
Baja Fresh lightens up: Bare burritos are not the same as bevertainers, but they certainly are tasty. My favorite so far among the six new lower-fat, lower-calorie, high-fiber and high-protein choices is the Side-by-Side Chicken and Salad Combo. Made to order, the salad comes in a medium-sized bowl. Packed in separate containers is a heap of warm grilled chicken breast, delicious salsa and a dressing of your choice. Satisfying and delicious. Bare more Baja, you're on the right track.
Panera expands: Panera bakery-cafe is making its mark. Located in the Galleria Pavilion adjacent to the Galleria Mall, Panera is winning fans with its super sandwiches and crusty artisan breads. With the recent launch of a catering program, these same foods and baked goods are available for parties and other occasions. For complete details call 434-4002.com
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