Wednesday, Dec. 11, 2002 | 8:27 a.m.
This has been a banner year for cookbooks by celebrated chefs.
Everyone from the irrepressible Wolfgang Puck to New York Times food columnist and chef Mark Bittman have new cookbooks. The international slow-food movement, almost cultlike in its fervor, is gaining followers.
Slow food is not related to cooking in a crock pot. Instead, it poses a food philosophy that has been thoroughly researched by food critic Corby Kummer. Fast-food cookbooks (not about McDonald's) are the flip side of the slow-food rationale, devoted to making appealing tasty meals with few ingredients in a short amount of time.
And yet, the two philosophies are not so far apart since both slow food and fast cooking emphasize the importance of using the best ingredients.
So many themes, so many new cookbooks!
Many pleasant hours are spent reading new cookbooks. It is one of my favorite pastimes. There is always room on my shelves for a new favorite, yet I am reluctant to displace old favorites. So many cookbooks, so many keepers.
Read on:
The peripatetic Puck somehow manages to find time to appear at his various eateries, do a cooking show on the Food Network and to write cookbooks. In his latest endeavor he offers a variety of terrific recipes for every level. Many of the dishes are his personal favorites, including the acclaimed smoked salmon and caviar pizza.
As American as steak and eggs, this paean to breakfast foods is a tasty read. The range of recipes is excellent. From the simple bagel and smoked salmon to Basque piperade to Oregon salmon hash, the Jamisons pique the taste buds. Breakfast might be the most important meal of the day, but many of these recipes could fill the bill for any meal.
Martin Yan is a master of Chinese cooking. I never tire of watching his cooking shows on PBS. And I always get a chuckle from his sometimes corny humor. Yan was born to cook and to teach.
"Chinatown Cooking" is the companion cookbook to his latest PBS series. Share the journey; cook the food. Recipe ingredients can be found locally.
"Taste and technique are the basic elements of Italian cooking, indeed of all good cooking," says Barr. Barr's method of instruction is simple a primary recipe, and variations. "Make it Italian" is a treasure of information and marvelous recipes. An irresistible cookbook.
Watching Bastianich cook on PBS is one of my most enjoyable pastimes. Bastianich is a natural cook. She exudes confidence, as she cooks, talking all the while and never missing a beat. No histrionics, just common sense dispensed as if she were talking to friends. That same comfortable style permeates this cookbook.
The menus and recipes are from the television series I watch on Saturdays on PBS, "Lidia's Italian-American Kitchen."
"Giradet: Recipes From a Master of French Cuisine" by Fredy Giradet (Ten Speed Press, $40).
"Arguably the greatest living chef," illustrious restaurateur Charlie Trotter says. Giradet retired at the height of his career. He left behind a host of memories for those fortunate enough to have dined at Giradet during his supreme reign.
During his time at Giradet, near Lausanne, Switzerland, dinner reservations had to be made two or more months in advance. All of the recipes in "Giradet" were served between 1982 and 1986. A culinary treasure.
"Amuse-Bouche: Little Bites of Delight Before the Meal Begins" by Rick Tramonto with Mary Goodbody (Random House, $35).
Tramonto, executive chef/partner of Chicago's popular Tru restarant, shares his recipes for a host of "little bites," tasty tidbits proferred by a chef before an upscale meal. Systemized by kind of amuse and season of the year, the book includes for hard-to-find ingredients and equipment. Tasty and easy, the soba noodle wrap on a fork is delish.
"The Foodlover's Atlas of the World" by Martha Rose Shulman (Firefly Books, $35).
Shulman transports readers on a magic carpet, strewing the tastes and flavors of many countries along the way. "Why do people eat what they eat?" Shulman has the answers. Signature recipes are included.
"The Good Cookie" by Tish Boyle (Wiley, $34.95).
A collection of more than 250 cookies and bite-size cakes "from simple to sublime." The orange-glazed Madelaines are yummy. Boyle is the editor and test kitchen director of Chocolatier and Pastry Art & Design magazines. Her recipes and those of her professional baker friends are a joy.
"The Zuni Cafe Cookbook" by Judy Rodgers (Norton, $37.95).
The ultimate book for those who want the thrill of dining at Rodgers' Zuni Cafe at home. Comforting, earthy dishes and information that assures success. The owner of one of San Francisco's most beloved eateries shares the heart and soul of this captivating eating house.
"The Pleasures of Slow Food: Celebrating Authentic Traditions, Flavors & Recipes" by Corby Kummer (Chronicle Books, $40).
The slow-food movement recognizes the enjoyment that comes from celebrating food. Respect for foods harvested when ripe, prepared by enlightened chefs and for passionate foodies willing to travel the world to do whatever it takes to interpret the slow food philosophy.
Kummer, a noted food writer and critic, tracks the movement from the beginning. It is a food movement unlike any other. The preface by slow-food founder Carlo Petrini is interesting; Kummer makes it easy to understand.
"Kona on My Plate: A Hawaii Community Cookbook Collector's Edition" by The Kona Outdoor Circle.
I could hear the surf pounding as I read this delightful cookbook. Included are quotes from such renowned Hawaii visitors as Mark Twain, Jack London, Robert Louis Stevenson and more. Recipes include the contributor's names, their place of birth and when they moved to the Kona Coast. Hundreds of traditional island recipes and Mainland favorites. "Kona On My Plate" is available online at [email protected]; by phone at (808) 329-7286; or by fax (808) 334-9646. Price: $28.50 plus handling and priority mail postage.
"Anatomy of a Dish" by Diane Forby with Catherine Young (Artisan, $35).
Forby's Verbena restaurant in New York wins rave reviews for original cuisine. That same originality translates beautifully to this stunning cookbook. Both a botany lesson and a tribute to Forley's exceptional cuisine. A fascinating read with recipes.
Betty Crocker, yesterday and today:
"Betty Crocker's Cookie Book: The Original 1963 Classic Collection," $24.95. Relive the moments baking with Mom or Granny when you were a kid. All of the longtime favorite cookies are here in this authentic facsimile edition.
"Betty Crocker's Quick & Easy Cookbook: 30 Minutes or Less to Dinner Every Night," $26.95. Easy-to-make recipes that require few ingredients and no more than three steps to prepare. Budding teenage chefs can use this. Try the from-scratch fudge pudding cake that takes 15 minutes to prepare and 15 minutes in the microwave.
"Betty Crocker's Indian Home Cooking" with recipes by Raghavan Iyer, $23.95.
Betty joins with culinary expert Iyer to explore Indian food from the "pantry" guide to a collection of recipes and excellent information supplied by Iyer. A super cookbook that takes the mystery out of exotic cuisine.
"How to Cook Everything: Simple Recipes for Great Food" by Mark Bittman (MacMillan.USA, $18).
Surely a how-to cookbook dedicated to cooking everything must take more time than any other kind of cookbook. And how to decide what to include? Never mind. Bittman is a patient writer who managed to include something for everyone. Many recipes and information galore. For every level of cook.
"Appetite" by Nigel Slater (Clarkson Potter/Publishers, $35).
"So what do you want to eat today?" chef Slater asks. Slater is an inspired chef, a columnist for the London Observer and a witty, appealing writer. I couldn't put this book down. Slater has so much to say.
Why cook? Read this American edition of the best-selling U.K. edition for the answers. Unpretentious recipes and gorgeous prose.
"Pleasures of the Vietnamese Table: Recipes and Reminiscences from Vietnam's Best Market Kitchens, Street Cafes, and Home Cooks " by Mai Pham (HarperCollins, $27.50).
Mai Pham was born in Vietnam and raised there and in Thailand. After emigrating to the United States she returned many times to her native land to learn the secrets of authentic Vietnamese cooking. No longer secret, Pham's recipes are easy to duplicate and most of the ingredients are readily available in our Asian markets.
"Paris Sweets: Great Desserts From the City's Best Pastry Shops" by Dorie Greenspan (Broadway Books, $26).
A collection of delectable recipes from a cookbook author who divides her time between Paris and New York. Greenspan has authored many cookbooks, including "Baking with Julia." Simply delicious recipes that won't tax a novice along with such "sophisticated" show-stoppers as the classic chocolate creation, Opera.
"Harvesting Excellence" by Alain Ducasse (Assouline, $50).
Ducasse has six Michelin stars for his restaurants in France. His American restaurants are perfection. His cookbooks are glorious. In "Harvesting Excellence," he searches for and finds "The American Food Revolution."
Aided by a host of fellow chefs, a number of whom own restaurants in Las Vegas, he searches for and finds the best food products in America. Marvelous story with recipes.
"On Cooking: Techniques from Expert Chefs" by Sarah R. Labensky and Alan M. Hause (Prentice Hall, $50).
Designed to "help new new cooks master the essentials and experienced chefs expand their repertoire," this is the third edition in less than 10 years of the indispensable tome. Includes a fully updated section on nutrition, health and food safety. An invaluable source.
"The Professional Chef, 7th Edition" (Wiley, $65).
Geared to the professional culinarian, and to avid amateurs who want to learn the secrets of the trade. Recipe portions are mostly restaurant or party size. Not for beginners, but accomplished home cooks who want to cook like the pros can probably take on the challenge.
"Michael Chiarello's Casual Cooking: Wine Country Recipes for Family and Friends" by Michael Chiarello with Janet Fletcher (Chronicle Books, $35).
This companion volume to the new PBS series is as easygoing as the host. Family-style recipes at their best. Robust flavors and familiar ingredients.
"Vegetables" by Guy Martin (Ici La Press, $36).
Translated from its original French by Ici La Press, Martin's passion for vegetables is for everyone, not only veggie lovers. I'm intrigued by such creative dishes as garlic waffles and pumpkin lasagna.
And, inspired by the gorgeous color photograph, I'm willing to forego the classic creme brulee for Martin's version with artichoke hearts. Stellar recipes and good nutrition.
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