Friday, Aug. 3, 2001 | 9:32 a.m.
Muriel Stevens' dining column appears Friday. Her shopping and travel columns appear Wednesday. Reach her at 259-4080 or [email protected].
NOBHILL at MGM Grand had barely opened the night I dined there with two friends, yet within minutes after we were seated the dining room was full. I've already described this lovely, low-key San Francisco-style eatery created by Michael Mina. Would the food be as wonderful as the setting? Absolutely.
We opted for the tasting menu and were delighted with the selection. Each of us had different dishes that we, of course, shared. By the time dessert arrived we had eaten our way through a good portion of the menu.
Mina has chosen to name many of his dishes after noted San Francisco classics, but the name does not mean you'll receive the classic version. Instead what you get is pure Mina. So don't expect braised celery if you order Celery Victor. What you get is so much better -- grilled Monterey Bay sardines with a black-olive vinaigrette.
Michael's take on such simple fare as tomato soup and a grilled cheese sandwich is a whimsical wonder; a bowl of savory tomato soup (not the Campbell's that Mom served to us as kids) on an oblong plate accompanied with a linen-napkin-wrapped grilled cheese and lobster sandwich. What a knockout. We also had Gilroy Garlic Soup with spinach and egg ravioli and wild mushroom soup with braised chicken and goat cheese agnolotti. We were hard-pressed to remember this was only the first course.
Then came the grilled sardines, a splendid peppered beef carpaccio, and "Solari's Grill" Dungeness Crab Louis. Had we not been such well brought-up women we could easily have had a food fight over sharing this tasty Louis.
An hors d'oeuvre sampler presented in one of Michael's original-design servers included salt-and-pepper squid, lobster spring roll and prawn dumplings.
We tasted small portions of a number of entrees: an exquisite presentation of tender sauteed Monterey Bay abalone with artichoke, squid ink fettucine, toasted pine nuts and lemon-flavored brown butter; crisp tapioca-crusted rock cod served with shrimp-fried rice; a tiny portion of the signature truffled chicken Tetrazzini, a version of macaroni and cheese like no other. Still there was more. Roasted Hop Sang Market Pork; velvety salt-baked king salmon and a perfect Beef Wellington. I'm not a fan of Wellington's namesake. The pastry is usually soggy, the tenderloin overdone. Not NOBHILL's. The crust was crisp all over, the meat pink and tender.
A "tasting" of lamb included a T-bone chop, braised shoulder and seared loin slice. With our entrees, a selection of the whipped potatoes that come with all entrees. I wish the potatoes could be ordered a la carte. What a comforting pigout that would be.
Breads baked as you watch were served throughout our meal. There's no way to resist these sensational breads. After such an enormous meal we decided not to have dessert, thinking to save a dessert tasting for another time. It was not to be. To the table came a spectacular Bananas Foster souffle, so tall and gorgeous we didn't want to destroy the effect (we did) and freshly baked "Blum's" coffee crunch cake with pineapple. Desserts are baked while you dine, timed to emerge from the oven when the dinner dishes are removed. It was a splendid meal with not one false note. Add an expert, caring staff and all is well with the world.
Dinner at the bar is attracting its own following. The semi-glass-enclosed booths are in such demand that it's wise to request one when making a reservation.
In spite of its beautiful design and appointments NOBHILL is not pretentious. There are no restrictions. Order a full meal or appetizers and desserts. There are so many ways to order at this "neighborhood" restaurant. Prices are moderate to expensive, but no one will quibble if all you want is a nosh or dessert.
MGM Grand management is aware that access to the restaurants isn't easy. It is already seeking ways to improve restaurant parking and access. Be patient. It won't happen overnight, but as one executive remarked, "It will happen sooner than you think."
More honors for Serrano: Picasso at Bellagio Executive Chef Julian Serrano has won many awards for his exceptional cuisine, but the award bestowed July 23 in Spain, his native country, is the first one of its kind.
The honor, Best Spanish Chef Abroad, was created by the Gastronomy Academy of Spain with the blessings of the Spanish government. Presiding over the ceremony, which took place at the Ministry of Economy, was Spain's vice president, Sr. D. Rodrigo Rato, who is also the minister of economy.
Said Rato in the press release, "This ministry has done many things to raise the image of our gastronomy through international tourism, yet our gastronomy is not as appreciated nationally as it should be."
Following the awards a lunch paired with nine fine Spanish wines took place at Restaurante El Bulli en Rosas, a three-star Michelin restaurant.
Las Vegans will have an opportunity to enjoy fine Spanish food when Serrano and other great Spanish chefs participate in "Spanish Gastronomy Weeks," scheduled to take place in Las Vegas in 2002.
Quite an honor, Julian, to be named the best Spanish chef in the world outside of Spain. How are you going to top that one?
Short orders
March Of Dimes plans 4th Annual Star Chefs: Sept. 14 is the date for sampling food from celebrated chefs at such restaurants as Spago, Rosemary's, Commander's Palace, Chinois, olio! Postrio, Lupo and more. Tickets ($125 per person) are available by calling the March of Dimes office, 732-9257.
Fellini's expands: Fellini's Italian restaurant will take over the space at Sam's Town, formerly Papamio's. It's a terrific location in the lovely indoor park. This is the third location for the Tuscan Italian -- the original location is on West Charleston and there's a Fellini's at the Stratosphere.
Party at McCormick & Schmick's: A reminder that McCormick and Schmick's seafood restaurant in the Howard Hughes Center offers a private room for meetings or parties. Call Michelle Boucher for details -- 836-9000.
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