Friday, Aug. 4, 2000 | 8:59 a.m.
Muriel Stevens' dining column appears Fridays. Her shopping column appears Wednesdays. Reach her at muriel@lasvegassun or 259-4080.
Dining at the Tillerman recently was more than just a fine dining experience. I've known Tillerman owner Mark DiMartino since he was a youngster helping out in the family's DiMartino restaurant.
Even at a young age, he knew he wanted to own his own restaurant. Like his mom and dad, Shirley and Dee, he wanted a restaurant where diners felt welcome; where he could please their food tastes and yet be creative. Mark has accomplished this and more at the Tillerman.
This isn't the only restaurant owned by the rising young entrepreneur, but it is the only one he didn't build from scratch.
The Tillerman has been a Las Vegas landmark for more than 20 years. It was one of the first prime seafood restaurants.
When Mark acquired the venerable eatery he made significant changes. For the first time, the Tillerman accepted reservations. The interior was redone; the lighting softened.
Today it is an appealing, comfortable dining room. The tall signature ficus trees still adorn the front dining room. When the weather is right the skylight is opened and diners have a view of the stars above. Very romantic.
The menu is still mainly seafood. For devout carnivores, there are steaks, roasted chicken breasts, grilled rack of lamb and a double-cut pork chop.
Of course, fish and seafood are the stars. Oysters, shrimp, crab and lobster are wonderful first courses. Among the seafood appetizers ($9.50-$13.50) are oysters Tillerman with spinach and bacon, generously sized crab cakes, spicy Thai calamari, blackened yellowfin tuna and escargot with Gorgonzola cheese.
Clam chowder, of course, and a rich shrimp bisque are featured. All entree prices include the endless salad bar served at the table. Lobster tails, king crab legs and combinations that include a filet mignon are available as well as a selection of seasonal fish.
Among the house specialties are seared yellowfin tuna, grilled swordfish, shrimp stuffed with seasoned crab, Maryland crab cake and fettucine with lobster.
When I couldn't make up my mind what to order, I opted for the delicious summer specialty: gazpacho, steamed mussels and a crab cake.
The gazpacho was chilled and chunky just as it should be. The mussels were so good. These are the real thing -- small, sweet black mussels served with white wine and garlic or Provencal. I am not fond of those other oversized mussels from Australia. Big does not always mean tasty. The grilled bread that comes with the mussels is ideal for dunking into the flavorful broth. The crab cake is generously filled with crab, not bread crumbs. It was a thoroughly enjoyable meal.
Having eaten so lightly I was able to indulge in some of the Tillerman's delectable desserts ($6.25). I was happy that my dining partner was willing to sample more than one. Cream brulee, warm chocolate cake with vanilla creme Anglaise (vanilla sauce) and a warm apple crisp topped with vanilla bean ice cream, homespun and delicious. At the Tillerman they know the difference between a crisp and a cobbler.
And don't miss Mrs. D's cheesecake. The recipe spans three generations.
The Tillerman has a good wine list that includes many from small, choice-boutique wineries. The selection of cognacs, ports, dessert wines and cordials is fine, too. And there are premium cigars for those who still like to puff away after dinner.
Located at 2245 E. Flamingo Road, the Tillerman offers dinner nightly from 5 p.m. (except on major holidays). Reservations are suggested. Call 731-4036.
Short orders
Restaurant scam: Some unscrupulous customer has been scamming local restaurateurs, according to a release from the Nevada Restaurant Association.
Here's how the scam works: A polite letter is sent to a restaurateur referencing a recent visit. Enclosed is a dry cleaning receipt for $13.85. Of course, the sender is seeking reimbursement. This has been happening since April to resort and independent restaurant operators. Most of them paid.
The scam wasn't disclosed until a multiple restaurant owner realized that two of his eateries had received the same letter and paid receipt!
NRA recently alerted its members to this seemingly innocuous request. For more information, call the NRA at 878-2313.
Serrano in Palm Beach: Picasso's uber chef, Julian Serrano, was one of only a few noted chefs invited to participate in the second-annual "Consuming Passions" food and wine festival at the Brazilian Court hotel in Palm Beach, Fla. The innovative Serrano was one of the featured chefs at "A Salute to the Best New Restaurants of 1999."
Port wine master class: Wine Institute of Las Vegas will present a port wine master class Aug. 12 at Lee's Liquor's Summerlin store (7411 W. Lake Mead Blvd.) at 6 p.m.
Twelve port wines from Portugal and port-style wines from other countries will be tasted and discussed. The event will be moderated by Gil L. Schwarz, WILV chairman. Seating is limited to 25. The price, $45, includes the class, the wines and specialty breads and cheeses. The focus will be on the ports of Portugal and other areas, as well as the meaning of vintage port vs tawny, ruby and more.
Tickets are available through Aug. 11 at all Lee's Liquor stores. For more info, call Reid at 804-9700.
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