Friday, April 24, 1998 | 9:30 a.m.
Dining at the Venetian restaurant recently was like a step back in time, but with some differences. The original Venetian, founded by Angie and Lou Ruvo many years ago, was like a second home to its patrons. Angie cooked, Lou was at the door. They were a warm and loving team and they embraced all who entered their family-style eatery.
Lou's untimely passing, and Angie's retirement a short time after, were the reasons for selling the Venetian. Angie and her son, Larry Ruvo, senior director for Southern Wine and Spirits, kept the restaurant going until the right buyer came along.
This was the first time I'd visited the Venetian since the longtime local favorite changed hands. I'd spoken a few times with the new owner, Tom D'Antonio, and he assured me that he would not make any staff changes -- some of the Venetian's wait-staff had been with the Ruvos 20 or more years. He knew that in order to continue to please his customers he would have to retain the warm, hospitable spirit the family had established.
Most of the changes D'Antonio has made are decorative. A new entrance, a new bar, and some rearrangement of the seating. A 24-hour policy is now in place, and the dinner menu has been expanded to include Certified Angus steaks and a variety of grilled chops ($19.95-$29.95). Portions are generous. The rack of lamb with a mint demi-glace sauce, one of the specials the night I dined there with two friends, featured four double-cut chops. One of my dining companions, normally a small eater, ate every morsel of the large portion, then proclaimed the lamb the best she'd ever had.
Prices for the dinner menu are a bit higher than in the past, but not by much. A sizeable bowl of spaghetti is still $9.50. All entrees include a house salad or a cup of minestrone or pasta fagiole -- on Fridays, seafood chowder is one of the choices.
There's a long list of starters and side dishes ($3.50-$13.95), including the signature neck bones a la Venetian. The pasta list ($9.50-$19.95) includes all of the basics, as well as a number of pasta and seafood combinations. There is even a veal or eggplant Parmesan with spaghetti.
House specialities ($17.95-$29.95) include brasciola, osso buco and homemade sausage. Cioppino, lobster and a host of seafood and fish preparations ($15.95-$34.95) are featured, as well as a large selection of chicken and veal dishes.
The delicate salmon I enjoyed was another of the night's specials. The eggplant Parmesan ordered by my other dining companion covered the oval plate. We all took home leftovers.
Lunch specials; lasagna, angel hair pasta, manicotti, fettuccine Primavera or Alfredo and linguini with pesto are $4.99. Also available are burgers and sandwiches and a variety of Italian dishes. Breakfast dishes, soups, pizzas and calzones, along with other lunch and late night specials, are available from 2 a.m. to 3 p.m.
The dinner menu is in effect around the clock.
Service is friendly and expert, and the familiar faces are still there.
A new owner invariably puts his own imprint on a restaurant. What D'Antonio has done is very pleasant, and there's enough left of the old Venetian to please veteran diners. The restaurant was at capacity on a Tuesday night.
Reservations are suggested for dinner. Call 871-4190.
Short orders
*What a difference new owners have made to the former Las Bagels, now a second Bagels N'More. Once a dreary, not-too-clean eatery, it is now a cheerful, attractive, sparkling clean bakery and full-service deli, complete with booths, tables and table service. The delicious egg breads and Jewish-style baked goods are created by Don Feldman, former owner of the Rancho Bakery. Now retired, Don spends just enough time at Bagels N'More to fill the cases with breads, cookies and small cakes. A complete menu of breakfast items, skyscraper sandwiches, appetizers, soups, salads and platters are offered. Bagels N'More is at 3620 W. Sahara Ave., at the corner of Valley View. Hours are Monday-Friday, 6 a.m.-5 p.m.; Saturday, 6 a.m.-6 p.m.; Sunday, 7 a.m.-4 p.m. Delivery service is available. Call 222-2435, for more tidbits.
*It was a bit of irony when Caesars Palace Court chef Laurent Tourandel was named one of the 10 Best New Chefs in America by Food and Wine magazine. The announcement coincided with his departure from Caesars to open his own restaurant in Manhattan, N.Y. The energetic chef was realizing a dream that was made possible by a financial partner. After a trip to Hawaii, Tourandel will join the the other Best New Chefs in June at Aspen for the annual Food and Wine Magazine Classic. The chefs will cook together for the first time, when they prepare a meal for 700 guests. I spoke to Laurent before he left. A prime location on Madison Avenue has been leased for his restaurant, which has been named Cello and will showcase fish and seafood specialities created by the chef. Cello will be small and it will be pricey. Many of the former Best Chef honorees have gone on to become stand-out figures in the food world. Tourandel is a good bet to join their number.
*U.S. News and World Report says in the April 13 issue that the buffet at the Fiesta casino is the best buffet in Las Vegas. This is according to Glenn Campbell, a paranormal expert in what the magazine calls "Sin City." According to the blurb, which appeared in the 1998 Travel Guide section, Campbell recently ate at each of 60-some casino buffets before naming the Fiesta as his favorite. The Fiesta Buffet is a good one, but how does someone who's eaten at 60 buffets in a short period of time even remember what he ate?
*They're feudin' in the pizza parlors in Las Vegas and Reno, says Round Table Pizza. The so-called pizza wars are the result of Round Table's expansion in Nevada, says the company. Round Table is opening 20 new restaurants in Nevada by the year 2000. A Round Table Eatery is scheduled to open soon in Pahrump. How serious will the Round Table competition be to other pizza franchises? There's a lot of dough at stake in this kind of war. Consumers could be on the winning side when the competition heats up. Rally 'round the sauce pots men, and don't spare the toppings.
*Myron Heaton Chorale will present An Evening of Wine and Roses on May 1 at Palace Station. Featured will be a selection of wines from Southern Wine and Spirits, and from Pahrump Winery, plus entertainment and a silent, live auction. Tickets are $12.50 in advance (includes a souvenir gift) or $15 at the door. The festivities begin at 6 p.m. To reserve tickets or for additional information, call 456-0735.
*DIVE! in the Fashion Show mall continues their World Taste Tour through April with lunch and dinner specialities from Costa Rica. Each month, culinary and beverage specialities from a different destination are featured. Next month's destination is Spain. Ole!
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