Friday, April 17, 1998 | 10:42 a.m.
Fortunes, the newest fine dining room to debut at the Rio, is a stunning Chinese restaurant geared to the hotel's Chinese clientele. Located above Fiore, Fortunes has a separate entrance with an elevator to transport diners to this exquisite dining experience.
Access to the restaurant is through an elegant walkway. The walls are lined with a breathtaking collection of museum-quality Chinese art and artifacts. Additional works of art fill the dining rooms.
Ancient pieces from the Han Dynasty, Tang Dynasty and the Quianlong period are breathtaking. A silk dragon robe panel from the Qing period, a magnificent rock crystal Koro (incense burner), an 18th-century chrysanthemum dish of green jade and a chrysanthemum bowl of white nephrite are just a small part of the collection.
The main dining room is splendid, with rich wood, magnificent fabrics and gorgeous appointments. There are three private dining rooms, equally beautiful.
The effect is opulent and serene.
My dining companion was familiar with the menu, which offers both classic Chinese dishes and the more popular ones, making Fortunes a good choice for anyone. At my suggestion, my host ordered our dinner.
For appetizers ($5.95-$18.50) we had live, jumbo Santa Barbara freshwater shrimp (market price) and minced squab in lettuce cups. The whole shrimp, with the heads, were split down the middle and quickly deep-fried. These jumbo shrimp are 4 to 5 inches in length and arrive looking like small lobsters. Everything may be eaten, including the head and the delicate shell. The meat is sweet and tender and simply wonderful. Order these by the piece -- two each are more than enough to begin a multi-course dinner. Real squab, not chicken, filled the lettuce cups.
Soups ($5-$5.95) are served in generously sized, individual bowls. Sweet corn and tofu soup were delicately flavored and delicious. Of course, there is shark's fin as well ($42), in combination with shredded chicken or crab meat.
The price range is from reasonable to expensive. The most costly dishes are for such high-end items as abalone and seafood from the live tank ($58-market price).
Entree dishes of fish ($22-$28); seafood ($18-$23.95); poultry ($15.95-$48), including whole Peking duck with traditional accompaniments; a selection of tofu dishes ($11.95-$21.95); vegetables ($8.95-$13.95); and assorted rice and noodle combinations ($8.25-$16.95) are all available.
Chef Chi Kwun Choi makes many specialities not on the menu. Chinese cabbage rolls seemed, except for the filling of roast duck, abalone, black mushrooms, and transparent vermicelli, a simple, homey dish. Later, I learned how complex and time consuming this seemingly simple dish was to make -- a subtle and satisfying blend of flavors.
Chef Choi's lemon chicken is highly original. The chicken is not breaded and fried, nor is it covered with a sugary sweet sauce. In his much simpler and tastier version, strips of tender breast of chicken are masked with a light, barely sweet lemon sauce. The painstaking care that the chef and his sous chef Henry Chan take with every dish was obvious in the lemon slices that highlighted the sauce. Each slice was totally free of any pith and membrane. Bite into these lemon wheels and the soft, tart flavor floods the taste buds.
Individual bowls of Yang Chow rice, another of Chef Choi's specialities, was arguably the best of the many rice combinations I've enjoyed in the past.
We ended this delicious repast with desserts of deep fried water chestnut roll and a barely-warm, sweet soy bean and tapioca soup. The water chestnut roll was delicious; the authentic Chinese dessert soup, while pleasant, is an acquired taste.
Service under the expert eye of Fortunes Manager Tang Lam and Assistant Manager Jeffrey Seit is impeccable. Lam graciously answered my many questions and took me into the kitchen to meet the chef, who speaks little English. With Lam as my interpreter, the chef and I had a grand conversation. Both Choi and Lam were formerly with the Joyful House Chinese restaurant. They are a formidable team.
With our delightful dinner we consumed many pots of Chinese tea. A special tea cart has been ordered that will soon be dispensing a variety of exotic teas.
We lingered long after our outstanding meal, enjoying the peace, tranquility and beauty of Fortunes restaurant at the Rio.
Fortunes hours are Thursday through Monday, 6-11 p.m. Reservations are suggested.
Short orders
*Fiore Rotisserie and Grille at the Rio, Ashton Cigars and Freyboy Tobacco, will present Premiere Cigar Night on Monday. The highly regarded, medium-bodied, Ashton cigars are made by Arturo Fuente. A cocktail hour, four-course dinner with Chappellet Chardonnay, Napa 1995 and Font Villac Merlot - St. Emilion 1995 wines, is priced at $125 per person, all inclusive. Seating is limited. For reservations, call 735-8322.
*Gabriel Grigorescu's Green Lips restaurant will showcase the talent of Napa Sous Chef Michael Demers at a wine-tasting dinner April 27. A kir royale reception, a four-course dinner and four fine wines chosen by Southern Wine and Spirits Wine Educator Steven Geddes are included for $65 per person -- tax and gratuity not included. Chef Demers has created a delightful menu that includes soft shell crab and stuffed breast of squab. Last month's Spotlight Chef dinner was a sellout. Space is limited. For reservations, call 450-3104.
*The "A Taste of History" wine tastings conducted by Wine Director Barrie Larvin in the Rio Wine Cellar are booked so far in advance that they are taking reservations now for the May 16 tasting. Featured will be three wines from the '82 Bordeaux vintage and three from the '94 California vintage. The price is $100 per person. For reservations, call 252-7718.
*Fat Tuesday, a speciality chain offering a variety of frozen daiquiris, will open next week in the MGM Grand's Star Lane Shops. Free samples are offered of each flavor, and the flavors are wild. Among the favorites are 190 Octane, Triple Bypass, Banana Banshee, and the Hurricane. For more information, call 891-9600.
*Andre's French Restaurant at 401 S. Sixth Street will host a reception and wine dinner April 30. Included for the price of $95 is a five-course dinner with lamb loin as the entree, four French wines, and 40-year old Port with dessert. Reservations can be made by calling 385-5016.
*Rhapsody in Chocolate, a sumptuous garden party fund-raiser for Nevada Symphony Orchestra, will include dinner as well as an amazing array of chocolate temptations. Tickets are $150 per person. Call the orchestra office for more information -- 792-4337.
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