Thursday, April 9, 1998 | 8:58 a.m.
Until he retired from a career as a reporter and foreign corespondent, baking was for Bernard Clayton, Jr. a passionate hobby. Today, with more than 20 cookbooks to his credit, almost all about baking breads, he shows no sign of letting up.
Clayton's new baking book "Bernard Clayton's Complete Book of Small Breads" (Simon and Schuster, $25) continues his winning streak.
More than 100 recipes for small breads from many countries are presented in Clayton's sure-to-succeed style.
The chapter on scones, crumpets, baps and friends made me eager to get into the kitchen and bake something.
Clayton's use of the food processor will give any home baker new respect for the useful appliance.
Recipes run the gamut from homespun rolls to croissants. There's even a recipe for dog biscuits. What pampered pet wouldn't like a homemade goody? The price, about 50 cents for a pound, is about half the price of commercial dog biscuits, says the author. Try one, he did.
This is another thoroughly enjoyable baking book from the expert baker.
Bakestone Herb Cakes
These biscuits, speckled with green flecks of oregano, a member of the mint family, are splendid companions for soup and salad. The biscuits hold promise beyond a delicious bite. Oregano has long been praised as an aphrodisiac and widely used as a medicinal herb, especially to improve the appetite. Based on an English recipe, these are quickly made and baked on the griddle -- a boon in hot weather.
The recipe comes from "The Kitchen Garden Cookbook" by Sylvia Thompson, a talented writer and friend for many years. Our friendship began aboard the Franch Passenger barge Palinurus on the Bourgogne Canal near Dijon, where both of us were writing about good things to eat.
1/2 c. fresh oregano leaves, tightly packed
1 2/3 c. all-purpose flour
1 Tbs baking powder
1/4 tsp salt
4 Tbs butter, cold
1/2 c. plus 2 Tbs half-and-half or milk
Heat cast-iron griddle or heavy skillet over medium heat. Chop the oregano leaves by hand or in the food processor before adding flour, baking powder and salt. Blend with the fingers or pulse 6 times if using the processor. Cut the butter into small dice and drop into the flour. Rub into the flour or cut with a wire pastry blender or pulse in the processor until the butter is the size of small peas.
Turn the mixture into a bowl. Stir in the half-and-half with a fork with as few strokes as possible. Knead briefly to pull the dough together into a ball.
Pat or roll out dough to 1/2-inch thick. Cut into 2-inch rounds and fit close together on the unbuttered griddle or skillet. Turn when the bottoms are browned, 5 to 6 minutes, exchanging biscuits on the center and sides. In another 4 or 5 minutes, they'll be browned on the bottom. To be certain they are baked, split one open.
Serve hot in a basket -- to be split and buttered. Makes 18 biscuits.
Lil's Ice-Water Crackers
Dip a store-bought cracker in ice water, brush with belted butter and bake. It immediately assumes a different and delicious persona. Puffy, buttery and done to a deep golden brown, the cracker is especially good with soups and chowders.
This recipe came from Lillian Marshall, an outstanding Kentucky cook and author, who does imaginative things with food. This is one of them.
24 plain saltine crackers
1 quart ice water
1 stick butter or margarine, melted
Preheat oven to 475 degrees. Lay a single layer of saltines in a shallow pan and pour ice water over them. Let stand about 3 minutes. Carefully remove crackers with a spatula and place on a double layer of paper towels (laid over a linen towel) to drain for 5 to 8 minutes.
Dry pan and pour half the melted butter over the bottom; spread with fingers. Arrange crackers on pan and drizzle the remaining butter over them.
Place in the oven and bake for 15 to 20 minutes. This is a hot oven, so check frequently. The outside crackers may brown quicker than those on the inside, so shuffle them around. Don't burn them.
Serve hot. Enjoy. Makes 2 dozen crackers.
Earl Grey Tea Rolls
Named for a British nobleman, Earl Grey tea, a fragrant orange pekoe tea with a bergamot flavor, gives these delicate rolls a subtle, spicy flavor. Tiny green specks of zest of 2 limes add color and a touch of piquancy.
This recipe is adapted from one in "The Book of Breads" by Judith Jones and Evan Jones, whose work I greatly admire.
1 bag (1 tablespoon) Earl Grey Tea
1 c. boiling water
2 Tbs sugar
1 pkg dry yeast
2 1/2 to 3 c. all-purpose flour
2 Tbs butter, room temperature
1 tsp salt
Zest of 2 limes
Soft butter to brush
Beforehand, put the tea in a small, warm bowl or pot and pour the boiling water over it. Let steep, covered for 15 minutes. Lift out the bag and cool.
Pour the sugar and yeast in a mixing or mixer bowl and blend in the lukewarm tea. Add 1 cup of flour and stir to make a light batter. Add the butter, salt and lime zest. Stir in more flour to thicken the batter. Beat by hand with 50 strong strokes, or under the mixer flat beater for 2 minutes, until the batter is thoroughly mixed. Add the balance of the flour, 1/4 cup at a time, blending first with a wooden spoon and then by hand or with the dough hook.
When the dough has formed a rough, shaggy mass, place it on the floured work surface to knead or leave in the mixer under the dough hook. If the dough is sticky, add sprinkles of flour.
When sufficient flour has been added, the dough under the hook will clean the sides of the bowl and not stick. The dough will be soft and elastic. Knead for 8 minutes by hand or 5 minutes in the mixer.
Processor method: (The order of adding ingredients will differ from above.) Mix lukewarm tea and yeast in a small bowl. Stir to dissolve and set aside for the moment. Place 2 cups of flour, sugar, butter, salt and lime zest in the work bowl. With the machine running, pour the tea mixture through the feed tube. Next, add tablespoons of flour to form a rough, shaggy mass that cleans the sides of the bowl and rides the blade.
Stop the machine, remove the cover and pinch the dough to determine if it is wet and needs flour. If dry and not soft and elastic, add 1 or 2 tablespoons of water as the machine is running.
With the machine running, knead for 1 minute.
Place the dough in a greased bowl, cover with plastic wrap and let stand at room temperature while it doubles in bulk, about 45 minutes.
Roll the dough into a length and divide into equal parts in successive steps -- 2-4-8-16-32 -- and roll the pieces between the palms into tight little balls, each not much larger than a golf ball. Place the balls about 1 inch apart on a greased baking sheet.
Cover lightly with a towel or a length of parchment paper for about 30 minutes.
Preheat the oven to 375 degrees 20 minutes before baking. Bake until nicely browned, about 20 minutes. Remove rolls from the oven and brush with soft butter. Served warm is best. Makes 32 small rolls.
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