Las Vegas Sun

May 3, 2024

Columnist Muriel Steves: Kyoto not up to speed yet

The just-opened Kyoto Japanese Restaurant, Maryland Parkway and Sahara in the Smith's Food King center, was still working out the kinks when I dined there a few days ago.

Kyoto is on a site that has not been successful for other eateries. Both former occupants, Soup Exchange and the short-lived Boston Market, didn't make it. The formerly too-large space has been divided and houses Kyoto restaurant in one half, making it much more intimate and appealing than its predecessors.

Kyoto is an attractive place with a sizeable sushi bar, a traditional dining room and a willing staff. That's the good news. The bad news is a lack of organization on the part of the young kimono-clad staff, and food that is spotty. Intentions are good, the service is not. Dishes arrived scattershot. One entree was served and almost eaten by the time the other entrees arrived. And, they came after two reminders that only one of us had been served. Only a few diners were in the restaurant when we placed our order. The problem seems to be in the kitchen.

Sushi and sashimi plates were eye-appealing and good. The fish was shiny fresh and expertly cut. We ordered simple entrees; chicken and salmon teriyaki. The chicken was masked with the teriyaki sauce, the salmon was bare -- a side dish of bland, flavorless teriyaki sauce came with it. It was no loss to have the sauce on the side. The two generous slices of salmon were better without it.

Kyoto's prices are reasonable. Dinners range from $9.95-$17.95. All dinners include miso soup, salad and rice. Combination dinners are priced from $16.95. Sushi and sashimi dinners are considerably more. Sushi quality fish is expensive. There's a good selection of hot and cold noodle dishes ($7.50-$9.75). Lunch prices are modest. The daily lunch specials include a combination box with chicken teriyaki, shrimp tempura and California roll for $6.50. Five- and seven-piece sushi lunches are $7.95 and $8.95.

The owners appear to know that there's still work to be done. It was a pleasant surprise to learn that 10 percent of our bill had been discounted "in honor of the grand opening" that is being celebrated this weekend.

Hopefully, the service and food will improve as the staff and kitchen settle in.

Kyoto is open every day for dinner, 5 p.m.-2 a.m.; lunch is served Monday through Saturday, 11 a.m.-2 p.m. Reservations are accepted. Call 731-3330.

Easter Bunny arrives

*Bunny's will be hopping at Caesars Palace on Easter Sunday. A strolling rabbit will be on hand from 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. in the Palatium Buffet and Cafe Roma. Both eateries will offer lavish holiday brunches as well as the friendly bunny.

Palatium buffet will serve brunch ($19.95) from 8:30 a.m.-10 p.m. Cafe Roma will feature a brunch buffet ($16.95) from 7 a.m.-4 p.m. and a dinner buffet ($19.95) from 6-11 p.m. Youngsters 4-12 years will eat for half price; children 3 and under are free.

Along with its usual food choices, La Piazza Food Court will feature Easter specials. All of the other Caesars restaurants -- Empress Court, Hyakumi, Terrazza and Palace Court -- will serve their regular menus. Bacchanal will be closed Easter Sunday, but Caesars Magical Empire will supply its diners with food, fantasy and magic. For reservations to any of Caesars restaurants, call 731-7731.

*Garduno's in the Fiesta Casino Hotel will offer an Easter Margarita Brunch from 11 a.m.-10 p.m. for $10.99 per person. Included are an omelette station, freshly made fajitas, red and green enchiladas, fruits and vegetables and assorted desserts. The Festival Dinner Buffet ($11.99) will feature giant Easter eggs, and free champagne along with a vast array of foods. Old San Francisco Steak House will serve holiday dinners ($16.95) that include a block of aged cheese, salad, homemade bread, entree and dessert, from 2-10 p.m.

Short orders

*Now open -- Two Dogs Tavern at 3750 S. Nellis Blvd. at Twain. This is the sixth location for Tom Weisner's Big Dog Hospitality Group and follows the same policy that has made the Big Dog properties so popular; good food at reasonable prices in a congenial neighborhood setting -- with a little video poker on the side. Two Dogs Tavern serves food 24 hours. Traditional breakfast selections and a breakfast burrito topped with a Red Ale salsa; Big Dog and Bird Dog salads, hoagies, pizza, steak, ribs, authentic Wisconsin bratwurst and Walleye Pike are among the lunch and dinner choices. The grand opening on Tuesday was a successful fund-raiser for the Boys and Girls Club of Las Vegas. Call 433-3383 for more information about Two Dogs Tavern.

*Mark Miller's Coyote Grill Room in the MGM Grand has translated its menu into Chinese and Japanese. The response from the MGM's Asian clientele has been terrific. Diners are thrilled to have menus written in their own language. The menu is the same as the one in English. "No changes have been made in the menu," says Coyote Grill Room chef/partner Tommy Birdwell, "and the customers love it."

* Caesars Palace, Palace Court Maitre d' Robert Smythe was chosen Model Maitre d' for March by the Maitre-D Association. According to the story in the Maitre-D newsletter, Smythe is the ultimate maitre d' on every level of performance. That's my opinion, too. He raises the art of service to the utmost. The fledgling maitre d' organization will host its second luncheon and wine tasting at Gatsby's in the MGM Grand Tuesday from 11 a.m.-1 p.m. Members are admitted free; non-members pay $20. Annual membership dues are $75. Anyone interested in wine, good food and conversation is invited to join. The annual fee includes the newsletter. Call Adam Carmer at 897-0971.

*Restaurateur Freddy Glusman is revamping his latest acquisition, Fog City Diner in the Hughes Center, and will rename it Freddy G's Deli and Diner. Dan Gibson will be the general manager. The oyster bar and the liquor bar will go. In their place will be two pastry showcases, a four-foot fish showcase and a 24-foot deli case. Freddy has the knack for making any of his establishments a hangout for power brokers and celebrities. Certainly the crowd from Piero's will make their way to this latest venture -- a New York/ California-style full-service deli with an appetizing case, its own bakery and extended hours. Sounds like another winner for the Damon Runyonish Freddy G. Freddy G's is scheduled to open in early June.

*The Rio's Wine Cellar Tasting Room and Retail Shoppe has new hours: Monday through Thursday, 11 a.m.-1:30 a.m.; Friday through Sunday, 10 a.m.-1:30 a.m. In addition to an outstanding collection of wines, the retail shop carries a complete line of tasting accessories and gifts.

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