Las Vegas Sun

March 28, 2024

An ode to uni

Uni

Beverly Poppe

All hail the uni at Sushi Roku

In the second episode of Lost, survivor Hurley opted for starvation over sea urchin. I turned to my wife and asked, “Why couldn’t I have been on Flight 815?” I’d gladly battle a smoke monster for a shot at ocean-fresh uni.

I’ve dreamt of urchin as I’ve slept. I’ve ordered it for dessert. If I were on death row, I’d choose it for my last bite. Everything about it rocks my world: the complex flavors, the spongy consistency, the indelible aftertaste. Sometimes I close my eyes while I chew to fully savor the experience. Two or more orders and my “uni buzz” is still with me an hour after finishing.

But beware: Just as there’s nothing better than great urchin, there’s little worse than bad urchin. I avoided the stuff like crazy after a couple of subpar experiences when I first began delving into sushi. And then a friend insisted I try again. Thank God I did. Or maybe I should say, thank Uni.

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