LaDuca’s II does Italian deli classics right

Jim Begley

Friday, June 3, 2011 | 1:55 a.m.

LaDuca’s II Italian Deli and Pizzeria, formerly known as Minuto’s, is an unassuming deli and dine-in shop in a nondescript Smith’s shopping center on Trop and Jones. You’ll probably miss it if you’re not looking carefully, and that’d be a shame, because it’s rolling out exceptional versions of classics like heroes and pastas. It’s just what you want from a great East Coast-style Italian joint—overwhelmingly friendly service and great homestyle cooking.

I highly suggest the best seller: the LaDuca’s sub ($7.49). The freshly baked Italian bread is filled with a murderer’s row of Italian meats—salami, prosciutto, capocollo, mortadella—along with provolone, lettuce, tomato, onion and tangy dressing, yet it’s all remarkably balanced. Less successful is the grilled chicken hero ($7.49). The chicken might make for a healthy alternative to cured meats, but it lacks the eponymous sandwich’s memorable flavors.

On the other hand, the parmigianas—meatball ($7), chicken ($7.49) and veal ($8.49)—are exemplary, featuring quality housemade sauce and ample mozzarella. The breading on the chicken and veal is particularly well executed, not too thick and done in-house. Also outstanding is the pepper and egg sandwich ($6), red and green peppers jumbled with scrambled eggs and topped with sauce and cheese. This is one dish to be eaten at any meal.

Note that LaDuca’s has recently undergone a change of management, one result of which will be an expanded menu. A sneak preview of some of the new offerings—including sensational meatball sliders atop garlic knot halves ($5.50) and an outstanding minestrone soup featuring leeks ($3)—suggests LaDuca’s might not be a hidden gem for much longer.

— Originally published in Las Vegas Weekly.