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Monday, July 26, 2010 | 11:13 a.m.
A busy room, solid dumplings, bad service. That's what I was looking for. Over several weeks, I embarked on a Las Vegas dim sum odyssey, trying as many different little bites from as many different rolling carts at as many Chinese joints as I could find. In the end, things were not different at all. Things were very much the same, especially when we're talking about fried shrimp balls. I wanted a classic dim sum experience, and I found it. Repeatedly.
At Orchids Garden (5485 W. Sahara Ave.), the carts come fast and hard. I had char siu bau (steamed barbecue pork buns), shrimp dumplings, Chinese sausage, pork buns in flaky pastry (char siu sou), shrimp puffs and, of course, fried shrimp balls. The puffs were the best, crispy golden purses with sweet, salty insides. The pork in pastry was devastatingly sweet and buttery. I've heard people swear by Orchids Garden. It was okay.
Ping Pang Pong (in the Gold Coast) was packed. No one seemed to care that I was there. I devoured crispy, juicy chicken wings, then moved on to sesame balls, more fried shrimp balls, shrimp dumplings and pork potstickers. Here, the shrimp balls have a crab claw stuck in them. For fun. Shrimp cakes sat on slabs of green bell pepper in a garlicky, almost gelatinous sauce. Pretty good stuff.
It was time to head to Chinatown. Cathay House (5300 Spring Mountain Road) was not so busy because, traditionally, dim sum closes out around 3 p.m., and we just made it. Here, the dining room is strange, the service is bad and the food is really good, so mission accomplished. I had vegetable and shrimp potstickers, Chinese broccoli, spring rolls and cheong fun—beef-filled rice noodles in a wonderful savory sauce. Whole, head-still-on shrimp, fried crispy with sliced chili and bits of fried garlic, were the best. Couldn't stop eating them, shell and all.
In Chinatown Plaza, at Harbor Palace Seafood (4275 Spring Mountain Road), it was less busy but the people were nice, the service more attentive. I had steamed chicken buns (really great bread), seafood dumplings, more tasty cheong fun and pork shu mai. There were two kinds of fried shrimp balls here, and the ones I tried were coated in crunchy fried wonton strips, offering a nice new texture but little additional flavor.
Finally, I went to Chang's Hong Kong Cuisine (4670 S. Decatur Blvd.) early. It was hard to find the place because its sign changed recently. I sat next to a tank of live lobsters and it was a bit disturbing. I had (sigh) more shrimp balls, shrimp shu mai, fried wontons, lo mai gai (steamed lotus leaf packages filled with sweet rice, pork and chicken) and something I cannot begin to identify but decided to name The Haystacks of High Hell. But Chang's served the best sesame balls yet, hot and crispy and filled with red bean paste.
— Originally published in Las Vegas Weekly
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Cathay House Dimsum is served 24 hours. It's on top of my best list Chinese Restaurant/Dimsum and it is open 24 hours. Next would be Orchid Garden but too busy for me so I always head on back to Cathay House. Ping Pang Pong at the Gold Coast is average, the food remind me of PF Changs. Sam Woo is ok but if you head on to the bathroom to wash hands, you will instantly lose your appetite at least at Cathay House, the restroom is clean.
Orchids Garden and Ping Pong Pang have the best quality while Orchids Garden has more to select from the carts.
When choosing dim sum restaurants that feature many fish and shrimp dishes, make sure to choose the restaurants that aren't busy because fresh food and fast turnover are so inconvenient.
When you're ready for GOOD dim sum, head to Los Angeles like the rest of us discerning choosy types.
My bad, Cathay House is only open 'till around 5AM and yes you can order Dimsum anytime during business hours. Most Chinese restaurants only serve Dimsum for lunch but I know Cathay House and Orchid Gardens both offer Dimsum for lunch and dinner.
I've eaten at Ping Pang Pong a number of times since the place opened at the Gold Coast, and I agree with what the reviewer intimates: the food is appetizing and well-prepared, but the service could improve.
I've always dined there alone but have always found the atmosphere cold and even a little aloof.
This stands in contrast to the other restaurants in the hotel and those of its "big sister" Orleans, and I've patronized them all. Those places give a warm welcome to practically any customer who walks in the door.
I'll probably return to Ping Pang Pong, but it would be nice if their front of the house staff would put a little more heart into what they are doing. It would make for a much more satisfying experience.