Fats on Vegas’ back burner

By Marshall Allen (contact)

Wednesday, Dec. 13, 2006 | 7:08 a.m.

A ban on trans fats in New York City restaurants that has demonized the tasty but unhealthy ingredient may be triggering menu changes nationwide, but it is drawing mixed reactions here.

There seems to be no public appetite to ban trans fats in Las Vegas. Most restaurants say they will let the consumer decide what to eat.

But one off-Strip hotel, perhaps influenced by its New York roots, is taking action. Loews Lake Las Vegas Resort - formerly the Hyatt Regency - has announced that trans fats will be eliminated from all banquet rooms, minibars, restaurants and room service menus, starting June 1.

"There's so much research out there. This is just the right thing to do," said Emily Goldfischer, spokeswoman for the New York-based chain of 18 Loews properties.

The Loews action follows trans fat bans in fast-food chains Arby's, KFC, Taco Bell and Wendy's. Kraft Foods has even removed trans fats from Oreo cookies.

Trans fats are created when a liquid vegetable oil is turned into a solid through a process called hydrogenation. They're present in margarine and shortening, for example, and improve food's taste, texture and shelf life. Trans fats are considered more harmful than naturally occurring saturated fats because they increase bad cholesterol and lower good cholesterol, clogging the arteries and increasing the risk of heart disease.

Public awareness about trans fats increased in January, when consumer nutrition labels were required by the Food and Drug Administration to include trans fat levels. The trans fat battle took an unprecedented leap last week when the New York City Board of Health ruled restaurants must phase out all trans fats by July 2008.

Other cities have talked about trans fat bans, but there has been no such discussion in Las Vegas, according to Southern Nevada Health District officials.

But as consumer awareness rises about the artificially produced fats, some companies and chefs are imposing their own bans.

"The industry's been clear about moving away from (trans fats)," said Nevada Restaurant Association President Paul Hartgen. "They're very responsive to the public's desire to be healthier."

Among them: David Robins, corporate chef with Wolfgang Puck restaurants, who uses no trans fats in his cooking and praised the New York City ban. He blames America's obesity epidemic on trans fats, which he said are used commonly in fast foods and sparingly in nicer restaurants.

New York City sets the standard in the fine dining world, so other cities - including Las Vegas - should follow suit, Robins said.

But MGM Mirage, the largest operator of Strip resorts, is not eliminating trans fats from its company-owned eateries. Spokeswoman Yvette Monet said that customers aren't complaining about trans fats, and the resorts want to offer food choices so guests can eat healthy or indulge as they see fit.

"While political actions like a ban may have a positive impact, one-size-fits-all actions often leave no place for individuals to make personal choices," Monet said.

Kep Sweeney, a Las Vegas-based restaurant consultant, chef and author of "The New Restaurant Entrepreneur," said it's always best for consumers to drive change. Government mandates related to food are nonsensical and a slippery slope, he said.

Sweeney said it is inconsistent public policy for the government, on the one hand, to ban trans fats from biscuits but to not ban pork ribs, which are also fattening.

Customers will eventually vote with their stomachs on whether they want trans fats, Sweeney said.

But he said he doesn't think there's enough consumer demand - at least not yet - to eliminate trans fats on the Strip properties. Visitors to Las Vegas want excellent food and freedom of choice, he said. Trans fats are key ingredients in many delicacies.

"I don't really look to eat a lot of trans fats, but if I order a pie I expect to have a flaky pie crust, and that's best with (shortening)," Sweeney said.

Judith Ashley, a registered dietitian and professor of nutrition at UNR, said it's better if companies eliminate trans fats voluntarily, a decision they can then promote to win customers.

"It's only recently that trans fat is becoming known to the American people as a bad fat," Ashley said. "I think the American people can make good choices, but they need the right information."

Sharon Nasser, a registered dietitian at St. Rose Dominican Hospitals, applauded the New York City trans fat ban for raising consumer awareness.

"It gets (consumers) reading the food labels and more aware of what restaurants are using," she said.

But even if they reduced trans fats, Nasser said, Las Vegans need to be aware of other obstacles to healthy eating - such as a compulsion to overeat at the buffet line to get their money's worth.