Friday, May 27, 2005 | 8:37 a.m.
It was sad news when the FAO Schwarz toy stores closed and very good news when two of the stores reopened. FAO shops at the Forum Shops at Caesars and the original flagship store on NYC's Fifth Avenue have been revamped, refurbished and revitalized.
So what's new? Amid all the stuffed toys and other kids treasures is FAO Schweetz, a delectable, decadent ice cream salon, bakery, coffee bar and candy store that offers the most unusual ice cream concoctions this longtime ice cream aficionado has ever experienced.
FAO Schweetz is not just another ice cream parlor offering ice cream specialties. And not just any ice cream. FAO Schweetz reached for the stars with Bassett's ice cream, made in Philadelphia for more than 100 years.
Founded in 1861 by L.D. Bassett and still run by his family today, it is still, for this native Philadelphian, the ice cream of my dreams.
Which is why I was dealing with the excessive heat and snarls of traffic on my way to a tasting with David Starr, director of food and beverage for FAO.
I happily made my way through the crowds. Outside FAO a cherubic-toqued chef was offering mini cones of ice cream. Ice cream and pastry samples are offered throughout the day. Baking begins early in the morning. Pastries fresh from the oven are irresistible. I know. It was not possible not to taste bites of everything.
But let me begin at the beginning. Joining David was internationally renowned restaurant consultant Clark Wolf, a friend of many years and, as I found out, a demon ice cream devourer.
I was not allowed to scan the menu. My hosts would "surprise" me. First came the house signature, Volcano. What an awesome sight!
All of the desserts are sized to be shared. The Volcano could easily serve five, but is for four. Standing about 12 inches high, this Belgian chocolate mountain (26 ounces) sits on a large plate surrounded by a bed of candy-filled "rocks."
It took David and a server to bear it to the table. Inside the Volcano were 14 scoops of assorted ice creams.
To complete this formidable and sweet masterpiece, David and his helper (both wearing miner's hats with lamps lit) topped the mountain with billows of hot pink whipped cream, poured hot fudge "lava" with tiny marshmallows and warm caramel sauce down the sides.
Using a "pickaxe," aka a knife point, David managed to split the dessert so we could reach the ice cream. Flavors mixed as the ice cream melted. It was an orgy as good as any Bacchus could have conceived.
While we were inhaling the Volcano a double banana split arrived. What would we do with the leftovers? Not a problem. We had drawn a bit of attention with our gluttony. Young people were peering over the glass divider.
"Want to join us?" we asked. "Do you mean it?" was their response. Within seconds they were seated at the adjoining booth and scarfing down the leftovers.
Like everything else, the banana split was huge -- two ripe bananas topped with giant scoops of chocolate, vanilla, strawberry and mint chip ice cream, covered with warm chocolate, marshmallow and butterscotch sauce. A choice of 15 sundae toppings is included and mounds of whipped cream and the proverbial cherry on top.
We sipped an ice cream float made with our soda choice, robust Henry Weinhard's root beer served in a 1-liter mug. The scoops of vanilla ice cream and the primo root beer made the foamiest, grandest ice cream soda.
The final conceit was an absolute crack-up. An ice cream "pot pie" served in a white crock was filled with three scoops of ice cream, whipped cream and warm caramel sauce, mini marshmallows and candy vegetables, and topped with delicate out-of-the-oven-warm puff pastry.
Candy makers from all over the United States and Europe have contributed the unusual items such as the lava, rocks and all of the trappings that go with such an unusual sweet shop. It is remarkable.
There's more, much more. I'm crazy about the selection of pastries, especially the miniatures. The pastries are made in France, flash frozen and shipped by air. They are baked on the premises throughout the day. The aroma of the baking wafts through the Forum attracting a large audience.
A flaky croissant and a cup of Peet's coffee is a lovely way to begin the day.
A pastry and confection three-tiered tower includes chocolates from Mary Basta's Chocolate Swan. Clement Muney, a wholesale supplier of gourmet products to the trade, brings in the pastries from France.
After the tasting we toured the Schweetz candy shop. There are more than 160 candies in self-serve canisters ($10 per pound) that can be mixed and matched as you choose.
Of course there are many more ice cream specialties. Egg creams, too. The Volcano costs $100. The entertainment aspect alone is worth the price.
Watching the children with their parents is a hoot. One little girl sharing a sundae with her mother polished off the entire dessert while her mother was talking on her cell phone.
Takeout is available. Just ask. Call 796-6500.
Short orders
Z'Tejas Summer Grillin': From June 16 to June 19, Z'Tejas restaurant in Summerlin will kick off the grilling season with a Summer Grillin' menu. An array of new entrees will be paired with produce from the Las Vegas Farmer's Market. One dollar from every item offered on the Grillin' menu will be donated to the Boys and Girls Club of Las Vegas.
Ten new items are featured, including Blue Mango beef salad, Cowboy Ribeye, 15-spice grilled chicken half and chocolate chip pecan pie.
Wolfgang Puck toasts Centennial: Luis de Santos, Wolfgang Puck's Fine Dining Group's Master Sommelier, has created a special Centennial cocktail in honor of Las Vegas' 100th natal day. The Centennial cocktail is available at all Wolfgang Puck restaurants. Priced at $14, this appealing cocktail includes Navan vanilla-infused cognac, Grand Marnier Centennial 100, sweet and sour mix and fresh orange juice.
Temple Beth Sholom cookbook: Lara Stone is passionate about education and cooking (especially desserts), so she created a new cookbook to benefit the preschool and day school at Temple Beth Sholom.
Stone spent many hours in assembling a cookbook for the school her three children attend. She collected the recipes, designed the book and arranged for printing and marketing.
Included are Stone's favorite recipes, as well as those from other synagogue families. The cookbook is priced at $20 and is available at Temple Beth Sholom (804-1333) or by e-mail -- [email protected]. It is also available at Redrover Alley, a boutique located at 8390 W. Sahara Ave. All proceeds from cookbook sales will benefit the scholarship program for the preschool and day school.
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