Friday, May 6, 2005 | 9:33 a.m.
Smooth as silk best describes the grand-opening fundraiser Wednesday at Wynn Las Vegas. Three charities will benefit from the glam event that raised $2 million.
Guests trying to decide where to dine studied the map that was included in the registration packet. There were so many choices. I decided to start at the south end at Red 8, an Asian bistro. Red 8 was packed with contented diners, yet getting a table was not a problem.
Within minutes my companion and I were seated. We had barely ordered drinks when the food started to arrive. Steamed barbecued pork buns; a sugar cane stem supported a crisp rock shrimp; a Cantonese pot sticker was crispy on one side, soft dough on the other.
A deep bow to Chef Johari for this superior pot sticker. We also sampled plump shrimp and chive dumplings.
Our next stop, the upscale Wing Lei, was around the corner from Red 8. Seated nearby the restaurant was a group of Asian musicians making wonderful music with instruments I can't describe, except to say it was lovely.
Service is very grand at Wing Lei. China service plates lavishly bordered in gold were matched with a chopstick rest holding gold-colored metal chopsticks and a matching soup spoon. We never used the soup spoon, preferring the chopstick and fork food.
The chopsticks were ideal for picking up the tiny rolls wrapped tightly around Peking Duck. We dipped the bite-size roll into hoisin sauce -- so much flavor in one tiny bite. Crispy sea bass, crisp spicy calamari and rock shrimp atop a bit of grapefruit pulp were followed by Peking duck skin in a savory sauce.
Before departing I stopped to chat with Wing Lei Chef Richard Chen and to discuss some of the foods I had tasted. Elusive flavors and creativity -- I loved it.
By now time was running out. Our tickets advised that we should be at the Wynn Theater by 8 p.m. The only restaurant on the way was Zoozacrackers, the self-serve New York-style kosher deli. Now I would find out what makes a Reuben sandwich "skinny."
Zoozacrackers abuts the hotel's comfortable sports book. The guys and gals can practically shout their order into the deli. Of course, they're too hip to do that.
We ate mushrooms stuffed with avocado and melted cheese; a small crock filled with chicken soup and a tender matzo ball. Thumb-size potato pancakes were topped with "roses" of smoked salmon. My friend liked the American Kobe beef oversized sliders with melted cheese; I opted for more smoked salmon and finally -- a skinny Reuben.
Thinly sliced, rosy-pink corned beef with well-drained sauerkraut on thinly sliced, house-baked rye. This was real rye. The first bite of the Reuben was a shock -- no cheese, no Russian dressing. By the second bite I was starting to appreciate the lean flavors. A little mustard added for zest and I'd buy one.
We'd dawdled too long, so we rushed to the magnificent Wynn Theater. Others had dawdled longer, not wanting to miss a restaurant. Everyone wanted to tell me about their favorite eatery. We did not get to SW Steakhouse and Daniel Boulud Brasserie on the lake level or Corsa Cucina next door to Red 8.
How could we miss it? We were too busy checking out the stores.
Tom Cook and Marc Poidevin of catering and banquets showed off the bars and lounges by filling them with chilled seafood (Lure); artisanal cheeses, vegetables a la Greque and the house breads (Baccarat Bar); Serrano ham, gravlax and Japanese cucumber pickled cucumber (La Bete). Coffee and beverage service and pastry chef Frederic's biscotti were featured at the Drugstore.
We tried, but it was impossible to cover the splendid array of foods being offered by Okada Japanese, Bartolotta Ristorante di Mare and Tableau.
Dessert was offered in various locations after the show. Rare is the day when my sweet tooth isn't satisfied, but I'd run out of time. I'll sample such delights as passion fruit brulee, honey-orange ricotta cheesecake, tarte Tatin and Clin d'Oeil another day.
An early dental appointment the next day required that I awaken at the crack of dawn, so off I went. Good thing -- the public was ready to enter and the South valet was jumping.
Food execs excel: Kudos to the Wynn Las Vegas food execs who worked endless hours leaving wives/husbands and babes behind to wail, "When are they coming home?"
Elizabeth Blau, executive vice president of restaurant marketing and development, greeted guests; Kevin Stuessi, vice president of food and beverage, came within my view at least a dozen times as he rushed hither and yon to tie up last-minute details. Executive Chef Grant MacPherson visited every restaurant. Wherever I looked, there he was.
Wynns introduce "Le Reve": The Wynn Theater is spectacular. Steve Wynn's passion for his new home was evident. He spoke lovingly about this theater-in-the-round, which does not have a bad seat in the house, and the people who made it happen.
Ever gracious, Elaine Wynn described the charities that would benefit from the money raised. Deeply involved with the programs she supports, her impassioned yet brief comments touched us all.
No toy, but so good: I wonder if the pastry chef makes the nutted caramel popcorn that was included in the goodie bags we received in the showroom. There was no toy in the box a la Cracker Jack, but Wynn's popcorn is a choice munchie. It can be purchased at the showroom coffee bar.
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