Columnist Muriel Stevens: Laguna Beach resort achieves lofty status

Friday, July 29, 2005 | 8:14 a.m.

It is a bonus of the best kind to vacation at a hotel where the restaurants are so appealing that you would be content to never leave the hotel. At the Montage Resort in Laguna Beach, Calif., where I recently vacationed, my companion and I were content to dine at the Mosaic Bar & Grill and The Loft almost daily.

The outdoor patio setting of Mosaic is more casual than the gracious Loft, and Mosaic's menu is more casual. But both feature bold California cuisine as interpreted by Chef John Cuevas and his team.

Salads, soups, sandwiches, crisp thin pizzas and a meal-size shrimp cocktail -- six jumbo shrimp artfully arranged in a tall stemmed tulip-shaped glass are perched atop a layer of zesty cocktail sauce atop a coarsely mashed avocado.

With little pieces torn from the crusty torpedo-shaped rolls that come with most meals, I speared up every bit of the avocado. Excellent hamburgers and a flavorful flatiron steak sandwich on ciabatta bread are small parts of Mosaic's inviting menu.

Most days we were too relaxed to leave the Montage, so we invited friends and family (not at the same time) to join us at The Loft. The Loft's menu reflects Chef John's passion and involvement with naturally-grown foods.

A footnote on the menu advises, "The healthy dishes served at The Loft reflect our interest in wellness and our respect for the small farmer and the environment. Chef John and his team are strong supporters of organic, all natural ingredients produced by eco-friendly purveyers."

The chef further enhances his dishes with light sauces, flavor-filled reductions and a light hand with the seasoning. Nuances of fresh herbs titillated the palate. The pan-seared skate wing I enjoyed one night was boneless. Europeans might scoff at not having to remove dozens of thin bones from the delicate wing, but I did not detect any loss of flavor, just pure joy.

An appetizer of agnolotti filled with Bellwether Farm ricotta sauced with a mix of hon-shimeji mushrooms and miziritha and brown butter was so exciting we ordered it again and again. Among the soups is a divine organic corn soup created by the chef that at first glance looked like a pureed mushroom soup. One spoonful and we were in love, so captivating was the flavor.

The Loft features a remarkable selection of artisanal cheeses and scrumptious desserts.

Of course, there's much more to share about the restaurants at Montage. Look for future columns.

Montage has a good neighbor policy. Neighbors and visitors love the Montage restaurants, so make reservations far in advance at (949) 715-6000.

Yamaguchi book out: Roy Yamaguchi's new cookbook, "Roy's Fish & Seafood: Recipes From the Pacific Rim," (Ten Speed Press, $35) will be the centerpiece of excitement Aug. 2 at a dinner of "Fish, Fun & Fusion" at Roy's locations.

Dinner ($85 per person; does not include tip or tax) includes seared sea scallops pupus; garlic and sesame-crusted soft shell crab salad; butter-seared sea bass with sweet crab and Korean hot pepper sauce; Chinese-style steamed Kona lobster and for dessert, wild berry shortcake with coconut ice cream and Ms. Smith's Lilikoi Pound Cake.

The five-course dinner will be paired with wine selections from Moet Hennessy U.S.A. All of the recipes are from the book, which will be available for purchase. Seating is limited, so reserve ASAP. Call Roy's Restaurant on east Flamingo for more information (691-2053) or visit roysrestaurant.com.

Short orders

Wynn design execs to be honored: NEWH Las Vegas will honor renowned Las Vegas interior designers Roger Thomas and Janellen Radoff with Lifetime Achievement Awards, on Oct. 8 at Wynn Las Vegas. Thomas is executive vice president of Wynn Design and Development; Radoff is vice president. Both will be recognized for their "significant contributions in concepts, designs, and implementations of Steve Wynn's landmark casinos," including the Golden Nugget, Mirage, Treasure Island, Bellagio and Wynn Las Vegas.

Ticket price, $200 per person, includes a silent auction, dinner at 7 p.m. and the Awards Program at 8 p.m. Reservations will not be accepted after Sept. 15. For tickets or additional information call 429-1623.

Wolfgang Puck to be honored: Wolfgang Puck will be inducted into the Gaming Hall of Fame on Sept. 15 at the Bellagio. Puck will be the first chef to receive this honor.

Puck was a regular visitor to Las Vegas before opening his first Las Vegas restaurant, Spago. He came to attend sporting events. His fondness for our city and the opening of Spago in the Forum Shops at Caesars was the beginning of a string of Puck eateries in Las Vegas.

Additional inductees include Craig H. Neilson, president and chief executive of Amistar Casinos Inc.; Larry Ruvo, senior managing director of Southern Wine & Spirits of Nevada; and acclaimed actress and entertainer Debbie Reynolds. More than 50 people have have been inducted into the GHF since its inception in 1989. For more info visit AmericanGaming.org.

Hannah's Neighborhood Bistro: Construction problems have finally been solved at Hannah An's Neighborhood Bistro in Boca Park in Summerlin. The new opening date is Aug. 1.

Egg Works opens: After nine years operating the Egg & I, Brad Burdsall has opened the Egg Works at 9355 West Flamingo Road. Owner/chef Brad says he's serving "the same high quality food in a newer more contemporary version."

Special omelets and scramble works are made with four large eggs and are paired with banana nut muffins that are baked fresh daily. Want more? Call Brad or Christy Bixby at 368-3447.