Columnist Muriel Stevens: TI offers up its best Dishes in upscale buffet

Friday, July 15, 2005 | 8:23 a.m.

Aroving chili cart is just one of the many innovations at Dishes, TI's take on the buffet as an international marketplace. Since opening in November, Dishes has gained favor with locals as well as TI guests and visitors.

Created by award-winning designer Jeffrey Beers, Dishes is yet another step in the evolution of the buffet. This is the first buffet design for Beers. It's intimate and comfortable and easy to maneuver.

Food stations, though separate, flow together. My companions and I circled the food stations before making any choices. I like the tapa-size plates. Three of the small dishes will fit on the large dinner plates offered. We separated while making our selections and returned to the table to find that we had all chosen different sushi as starters.

My nigiri sushi with eel drizzled with a little soy sauce was delish. We shared bites of silky tempura tofu and salmon and tuna nigiri.

Central to the food stations is the regional American barbecue section with a wood-burning barbecue pit. Selections change almost daily, but typically include such excellent side dishes as a singular corn pudding; flavorful, tender collard greens; mashed sweet potatoes and garlic mash; mac and cheese; grilled vegetables and more.

The pulled pork is a winner; the ribs are smoky and sweet. A carving station deftly separates the ribs and chicken and whatever else is being offered. For this section we used a large plate as a sampler, helping ourselves as we chose. It was the only time we had a variety of foods on one plate. It worked well.

Each food section has a glass-enclosed display of the dishes offered. At the salad bar there are at least five selections. Choose one and it will be made to order in minutes. Ditto at the other stations, including the pasta section, flanked by the pizza oven. Good pizza.

The roving chili cart and soup cart is always on the move. We sampled the vegetarian chili, a delicately flavored bean-and-vegetable melange; a traditional beef chili (very spicy); a smooth, savory chilled avocado soup drizzled with creme fraiche; and ginger-flavored congee, a Chinese rice gruel traditionally a morning meal.

We shared the soups and chilis and were content.

In a separate room, visible from the dining room, is the bakery. There was plenty of action here. New items arrived continually. Fortunately, we were still peering into the showcases when the apple strudel arrived. This we had to have.

Among the other goodies shared were meringue-topped lemon tarts, berry tarts and room temp chocolate covered banana chunks on sticks. White porcelain bowls were nestled in a frosty freezer and filled with jumbo scoops of ice cream. My joy was complete. Included was my fave flavor, coffee. Cotton candy in a variety of flavors was making the kids happy.

Big kids, too.

Throughout dinner Dishes General Manager Steve Katz chatted with diners, answered questions and was an affable host. Also highly visible was executive chef Keith Hedges, whose eagle eye covered all bases.

Dishes offers breakfast, lunch and dinner every day.

Breakfast: 7 a.m. to 10:45 a.m., Monday through Friday, $12; Saturday and Sunday, 7 a.m. to noon. Lunch: 11 am. to 4 p.m., $15. Dinner: 4 p.m. to 10:30 p.m., $20 Sunday through Thursday; Friday and Saturday $26. Crab legs, small lobsters and additional gourmet specialties are added. Children 4 and under, no charge.

Mark Bittman teams with Chipotle Mexican Grill: New York Times food columnist, cookbook author and host of the PBS show "Bittman Takes On America's Chefs" (KLVX Channel 10, Sundays at 5:30 p.m.), and any other challenge the feisty foodie meets. Even though he says he doesn't like Las Vegas, Bittman was in Las Vegas on Wednesday for a fundraiser at Chipotle Mexican Grill on Sunset Road in Henderson benefitting KLVX.

Bittman signed copies of his new cookbook, "How to Cook Everything: Bittman Takes on America's Chefs," (Wiley, $24.95). I'm hooked on the show and the book.

I was in San Diego when I watched him joust with Michel Richard of Citronelle in Washington D.C. It was a wily match. Michel created his own version of the classic vitello tonnato, a gorgeous creation. Mark countered with a simpler version that equally was appealing.

Most appealing was the comraderie between the two. Of course, they're friends. Most of the challenges are with chefs Bittman knows. It adds more than a little seasoning. I'm sorry I missed seeing Mark. I can't wait to see the episode with Kerry Simon, owner of Simon Kitchen & Bar in the Hard Rock Hotel. It promises to be quite a romp.

"How To Cook Everything," is available by mail through KLVX and at most bookstores.

Short orders

Souvenir cocktail shakers at Hard Rock Cafe: Hard Rock memorabilia collectors can "shake it up" with a guitar-shaped shaker that will be available through Aug. 21. These limited-edition shakers are included with any of the featured summer cocktails: Rita, Key West Punch, South Beach Cooler, Perfect Peach Punch and Pacific Breeze.

Hard Rock recently "revitalized" its food menu. Such globally-inspired items as Wings Around the World, Tuscan Chicken Salad and a 10-ounce Legendary Burger served on a bun made with real Guiness are included.

Centennial Dinner at Lawry's: Lawry's The Prime Rib will feature "Old Las Vegas" and local historian and Channel 8 vice president of news Bob Stoldal at a historical centennial dinner July 29. Providing another dimension will be characters from bygone days who will be on hand to perform scenes from Las Vegas' history. Frank Marquette is the lead.

Dinner features prime rib and all the go-withs. A choice of salmon is available. A peach crisp atop a raspberry coulis and a choice of coffee or tea are included. Dinner and the presentation is $79, all inclusive. Prepaid reservations are required. Call 893-4968.

South African wines at Whole Foods: Whole Foods market has added a portfolio of South African wines not available in any other retail grocery store in Las Vegas. Selections from six South African vineyards are offered, including Landskroon, Lanzerac and Mooiuitsig... It's intimate and comfortable and easy to maneuver.