Columnist Muriel Stevens: An continues journey with new bistro

Friday, July 1, 2005 | 8:27 a.m.

"Never underestimate the power of a woman."

That slogan coined many years ago by Ladies Home Journal personifies Hannah An, her mentor, An matriarch Helene, and her sisters Elizabeth, Monique, Jacqueline and Catherine. Hannah is the eldest of the five daughters.

The newest family venture is Hannah's Neighborhood Bistro in Boca Park in Summerlin, on the site once known as Tre.

Hannah's menu reflects executive chef Helene's culinary approach -- a cuisine that is light, flavorful and healthy. The story of the journey that brought the An family to America is a fascinating one. Hannah's personal culinary journey included the cooking of France, Spain, Japan and many other parts of the world. And it echoes Hannah's approach to what the enjoyment of food means to her.

"I grew up both here and in Vietnam," Hannah said, "and food has always been the bridge that brings people and cultures together."

The hip, high-tech, yet comfortable design of Hannah's was inspired by the award-winning decor of its sister Beverly Hills restaurant, Crustacean.

Hannah explained that the bistro would be more relaxed than the Beverly Hills location. All this was said while we walked through Hannah's. Construction continued as Hannah described the Zen garden, the outdoor satay bar and grill and the community table where strangers could gather to become friends. "I wanted an all-occasion restaurant where guests can unwind after a hard day at work and sip mango bobotinis in the garden."

Bobo are pearl-size black tapioca. Kids love the chewy bobo in the delicious fruit drinks designed for youngsters.

Everything was already in place at the bistro. It's a smashing, comfortable restaurant with no pretense; just what a neighborhood eatery should be.

The outdoor areas were being planted as we walked our way through the restaurant. There are many parts to Hannah's.

The original bar is now a tapa and sushi bar. The handsome bar on the opposite side will offer a remarkable selection of libations.

A typical menu (still being tweaked) includes many small plates, sandwiches, including Mama's meatballs, flatbreads (think pizza), salads and soups.

An's famous garlic noodles are paired with shrimp and other seafood. Clay pot cookery will be available as well as such pleasing large plates as roasted short ribs, Vietnamese roast chicken, aged New York steak, ginger-steamed sea bass and more.

The sushi list includes sushi and sashimi 101, basic combos for beginners; 102 intermediate selections and Raw 303, an advanced selection for the connoisseur. The sushi list is terrific. Among the specialties are exotic bistro originals.

Hannah An's commitment to the bistro is complete. She will reside full-time in Las Vegas. Her children will make the move at summer's end. And she expects to be at the restaurant every day. Hannah's Neighborhood Bistro will have a public opening July 17.

Lunch daily from 11 a.m. to 3 p.m.; light menu service from 3 p.m. to 5 p.m.; dinner nightly from 5 p.m. to 11 p.m. A late-night bar menu will be available until closing.

CineVegas stars dine at Alize: On June 17, CineVegas hosted a party for stars, staff and supporters at Andre Rochat's Alize at the top of the Palms. The jewel-like restaurant was an elegant setting. Gorgeous flower arrangements filled the room. On each table was a large signature blue Tiffany & Co. box of flowers. Tiffany general manager Suzy Nagle was overwhelmed with compliments from guests.

The dazzling buffet circled one side of the room. Silver, domed chafing dishes were filled with potato au gratin and potato Chamonix, a variety of fresh vegetables, wild mushroom and chicken fricassee and seared Alaskan halibut.

At the pasta station, chefs were tossing pasta with a basil pesto or Parmesan cheese sauce or a light, delicious marinara. A seafood-filled ice carving offered king crab legs, dungeness crab claws, Maine lobster, jumbo shrimp, mussels, oysters and clams.

The salad station was glorious. A riot of color. Mediterranean pasta salad vied for position with Caesar salad, spicy couscous, grilled vegetables, prosciutto and other cured meats, assorted olives, tomato and mozzarella salad, sumptuous cheeses, fresh fruits, smoked and cured salmon and marvelous breads.

Central to the buffet was a carving station featuring mustard-crusted rack of lamb, oven-roasted filet mignon with sauce Bernaise, roasted veal loin and sublime lemon-roasted chicken drizzled with black truffle vinaigrette.

Among the celebs making the scene, I spied Dennis Hopper with his wife, Victoria, Nicolas Cage and spouse Alice Kim, Samantha Morton (CineVegas Tribute winner), George Romero, Wim Wenders (Tribute winner), Brenden Theater president and owner Johnny Brenden with his grandmother, film star Rhonda Fleming, who was the recipient of the 2005 Centennial Legend Award.

There was much socializing throughout dinner. A few wags considered making the rounds exercise after seeing the dessert table; mini pastries of every description flanked by a chocolate fountain with a never-ending flow of warm milk chocolate. For dipping, huge stemmed strawberries, marshmallows, dried fruits, mini cheesecakes and small kebobs of fresh fruit. Scrumptious.

A tip of the chapeau to Alize's leading chef, Mark Purdy, and his staff for the outstanding food and service.

Andre Rochat finally made his way to Alize after being honored at two other events. After more than three decades in Las Vegas the seasoned restaurateur continues to win honors for his many contributions to Las Vegas' restaurant history.

Balboa Pizza Company opens at The District: Wing on over to The District for some refreshingly new pizza styles. BPC is a joint effort between owner Jeffrey Fine and Michael Owings. The two put their heads together and decided it was time to revamp the traditional pizza parlor. Open 24/7, Balboa Pizza Company features a variety of chicken wing styles with portions sized for individuals and for parties, pizza bread sandwiches ($6.95-$7.95), a number of chopped salads offered in two sizes, desserts and beer, wine and Tropical Teasers -- fruity drinks with a kick.

Highly recommended: The sticky, sweet Hawaiian BBQ wings, the only kind I tasted, and the roasted garlic and artichoke pizza ($7.95). The garlic is so sweet, the artichokes cover the crust and the savory flavor is wonderful. Also wonderful was the smoked salmon pizza with cream cheese, red onion and capers.

Happy hours are 4 p.m. to 6 p.m. and 10 p.m. to 1 a.m. For take-out orders call 407-5273.

New Anolon pan for the grill: Anolon's new outdoor barbecue pan is a way to avoid singeing flames and smoke from flare-ups. Both can be annoying and dangerous. Anolon's pan features alternating solid and vented grooves that form a peak at the center.

The grooves channel fat away to the edge, so there are no flare-ups. It is also a gentle, nonstick way to cook lower-fat foods such as fish and vegetables. The 11-inch square pan ($49.99) is available at Sur la Table stores and at Amazon.com. Sur la Table in Las Vegas is in Desert Passage at the Aladdin.

Have a safe and happy Fourth of July, everyone. Be careful with those fireworks!