Las Vegas Sun

April 23, 2024

Columnist Muriel Stevens: Robuchon, MGM Grand an appetizing pairing

When the invitation came to tour the two soon-to-open restaurants of legendary French Chef Joel Robuchon, I was enthralled. L'Atelier and Joel Robuchon at the Mansion are the maestro's first restaurants in the United States.

As soon as the MGM Grand announced that Robuchon was joining the hotel, advance reservations arrived. No date had yet been set for the fall opening of Joel Robuchon at the Mansion when his followers started calling. No one cared. They were ecstatic that their culinary hero was opening restaurants in Las Vegas. The advance number is (866) 730-7711.

Robuchon is a remarkable self-taught chef who became the first, and the youngest, restaurateur to win three Michelin stars in successive years.

Before visiting the restaurants I met the management team and chefs of L'Atelier de Joel Robuchon and I met some of the staff. Herve Guillaume, general manager, spent the last 12 years working as the executive chef at the Hotel Okura in Tokyo, as well as as the French embassy in Tokyo.

Diego Requena is the assistant general manager for L'Atelier and was most recently the assistant general manager of L'Atelier Paris. Steve Benjamin, executive chef, served as the executive chef under Robuchon at the Astor in Paris and also worked with Chef Robuchon at L'Atelier Paris.

Patrick Hoefler is the executive sous chef at L'Atelier. Prior to joining the Robuchon team he served as executive chef of Skylofts. Elia Aboumrad joins the MGM Grand as a sous chef. Prior to MGM Grand she was the sous chef at L'Atelier Paris.

The chefs wore classic whites; the management staff wore stylish black outfits piped in red trim designed by Maud Lesur, who also designed the uniforms for the staff. L'Atelier is entirely red and black. It's hip, it's exciting and is a totally new concept for Las Vegas.

MGM Grand Vice President of Food and Beverage Stephen Judge, who was my guide, described the concept as "reciprocated theater." Most of the seating is around the counter that is central to the room. The guests are the audience, the kitchen is the stage and the servers are the performers.

In the background will be a market display of the finest exotic produce. Nature's finest art. Expect many tapa-size plates and desserts at L'Atelier, all inspired by Chef Robuchon's worldwide travels.

Reservations are not accepted at L'Atelier.

"Extraordinary" best describes the design and decor of Joel Robuchon at the Mansion. The luxurious fabrics, precious wood, marble flooring, elegant furniture and artwork are reminiscent of Paris in the 1930's.

The dining room features five distinctive rooms and an intriguing bar. In the terrace garden will be a replica of a Rodin sculpture. Flowering plants, of course. Looking at the designer's sketches brought the restaurant's decor alive as we walked through the rooms.

The regal purples and lilacs are lovely. The carte will feature Chef Robuchon's epicurean specialities served "La salle a manger de son" in a setting more like the chef's own dining room than a restaurant.

About the management team: Loic Launay, general manager, comes from Joel Robuchon's restaurant in Monaco. Olivier Brouillet, assistant general manager, joins MGM Grand from Paris Las Vegas. Claude Le Tohic, executive chef, worked with Chef Robuchon at restaurant Jamin in Paris.

Tomonari Danzaki, chef de cuisine, has worked with Robuchon for than a decade at Robuchon's restaurants in Paris and Tokyo. Berengere Leleu, restaurant manager, comes to MGM Grand from Paris, where she worked at La Table, another Robuchon restaurant. Eric Koehler, executive sous chef, was the executive sous chef at the Mansion before joining the Robuchon team.

Gerald Chin, who joins the team as the sous chef was formerly chef de cuisine at Bradley Ogden. Kamel Guechida, executive pastry chef, has been a personal consultant to Robuchon for more than six years and comes to MGM Grand from Lausanne, Switzerland.

Before departing for a family vacation, MGM Grand president and chief operating officer Gamal Aziz had this to say: "Joel Robuchon represents the best in the world of culinary arts. It is fitting that he become a member of our family at a time when Las Vegas, with MGM Grand leading the way, has truly become a world-class dining destination."

For reservations, now being accepted, call the advance line number.

Mirage to add restaurants: The Mirage was the first hotel ever to have an opening (1989) so strong that it had to temporarily close its doors to the horde waiting to get in.

Tuesday at a media event, Scott Sibella, president and chief operating officer, said, "At its opening and for the years following it, the Mirage set the standard for Las Vegas resorts. The changes we're introducing will ensure that the resort remains at at the forefront of the city's contemporary scene."

All of this was happening while I was at MGM Grand. Wednesday, I spoke with Bart Mahoney, vice president of food and beverage who was enraptured by the new restaurants and night life venues readying to open.

Coming in December is Stack Restaurant & Bar. Stack at the Mirage is the second venture for the Light Group (Fix at Bellagio was the first). The menu will reflect a return to approachable American food a la Chef Brian Massie, who will focus on simply grilled top quality meat, fish and poultry.

The space has been designed by Graft of LA to create a warm, inviting environment. Stack replaces Moongate, the Mirage's current Chinese restaurant.

Fin chef, Chi Choi, a master with a Hong Kong-style wok will lead the innovative menu for this high-end, contemporary Chinese restaurant. Central to Fin's decor is elegant glass designs. A spectacular water feature will grace one end of the room.

Walking a fine line between edgy and elegant, the project's award-winning designer, Yabu Pushelberg of Toronto, will artfully "reconcile opposites." This restaurant is in the space formerly occupied by Renoir. Fin opens November

Longtime favorite Kokomo's steakhouse will be updated when internationally acclaimed designer Adam Tihany adds a contemporary look. A new bar and lounge will be extended in the front overlooking the hotel's entrance lobby. The lush tropical theme will remain. Kokomo's opens in December.

Mirage has been updating its restaurants since the opening of Cravings, a new kind of buffet (I love the videos of the food flashing while you wait for a table). Adam Tihany was the designer. For Mahoney, "Cravings was the beginning of the movement toward adding vibrant new restaurants at the Mirage."

It's a movement that is ongoing, with more to come in spring 2006.

A celebration of Macau's heritage: A photo exhibit will kickoff a celebration of Macau's heritage at MGM Grand from Monday through Aug. 14. The unveiling of the photo exhibit and kickoff to the week's events will take place with a ribbon-cutting ceremony, 3 p.m. Tuesday in the Studio Walk, near Pearl restaurant.

Macanese food will be featured at special dinners at Pearl, in addition to its regular menu, Monday through to Aug. 14.

In the area nearby Pearl visitors can view Macanese crafts, artists will offer free calligraphy silhouettes. It's a mini introduction to Macau. Special guests include dignitaries from Macau. The celebration is sponsored by the Macau Government Tourist Office. MGM Mirage is partnering with businesswoman Pansy Ho to build the 600 room MGM Grand Macau resort hotel, expected to be completed in the second half of 2007.

Cooking with Nambe: Nambe, a family-owned design company in Santa Fe, N.M., will join forces with the Wolfgang Puck Fine Dining Group for a series of cooking classes beginning Aug. 20. Classes will continue through November 19. Nambe is a unique metal alloy that has the beauty and luster of silver, retains both heat and cold and can be placed in the freezer or oven.

A Nambe store recently opened in the Forum Shops at Caesars showcasing the company's diverse line of lifestyle products.

Cooking classes will take place the lively restaurant setting Puck's Postrio, Chinois and Spago. Executive chefs from each restaurant will will take participants behind the scenes and into their kitchens. Classes begin at 10 a.m. and cost $45. Classes are limited to 30 people.

Participants will receive a $25 gift card for Nambe and a Wolfgang Puck baseball cap. To reserve in advance (suggested) or to request additional info 369-0360 or visit [email protected].

The cooking class schedule is: Postrio, Aug. 20 and Aug. 27. John LaGrone, executive chef; Chinois, Oct. 8, 15, 22 and 29. Terence Fong, executive chef; Spago, Nov. 12 and 19. Spago, Sept. 10 and 24. Eduardo Perez, chef de cuisine; Spago, Sept. 10 and 24. Christophe Ithurritze, executive pastry chef.

Cruising Lake Las Vegas: Sunset & Vines wine bar in MonteLago Village at Lake Las Vegas will host a Bacardi Cruise Party Aug. 13 from 4 p.m. to 10 p.m. Tickets are $25 and can be purchased the day of the event at S&V. Included are two drinks and a cruise around the on the La Contessa with the Bacardi Girls.

All night rum seminars and live entertainment. From 4 p.m. to 7 p.m., a steel drum player guitarist; 7 p.m. to 10 p.m. jazz on the lake with Will Sumner. For more info call the events hot line: 564-4766.

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