Las Vegas Sun

March 28, 2024

Columnist Muriel Stevens: Restaurants, shops mix sophistication with pizazz

Las Vegas dining has come a long way from the days when the pastry chef at the Desert Inn's Skillet Room tried to pawn off a chocolate layer cake as a Dobos torte. Of course, I didn't let him get away with such skullduggery.

The Skillet Room was a favorite for late-night dining after seeing a show or risking a few silver dollars at the tables.

It was not a place for Dobos torte.

Today, many decades later, on the site of the Desert Inn is Wynn Las Vegas, the latest concept from the fertile mind of Steve Wynn.

Wynn Las Vegas opened its doors to the public at midnight Wednesday. Both the hotel and the eager crowd were ready.

Fine dining and swank shops attract millions of visitors to Las Vegas each year. With the opening of Wynn Las Vegas, epicures and fashionistas will find a host of new food and beverage options (22) and exclusive shops, as well as one that features high-end gadgets (Gizmo's).

It took more than five years to finalize plans for Wynn Las Vegas. Leading the quest to find the finest culinary talent for the resort (a program still evolving) were Elizabeth Blau, executive vice president of restaurant marketing and development; Kevin Stueussi, vice president of food and beverage; and Executive Chef Grant MacPherson.

Wynn Las Vegas restaurants run the gamut, from ZooZa Cracker, a self-serve New York-style deli, to Alex, which offers cuisine of the French Riviera. This namesake restaurant of Alessandro Stratta is a beauty.

Following is a list of most of the restaurants. All of the eateries accept Visa, American Express, MasterCard and Diners Club.

Signature dishes are included, but be aware that menu-tweaking is going on even as this story is being written:

Alex: Cuisine of the French Riviera as interpreted by Executive Chef Stratta. Jennifer Witte is the pastry chef; the general manager is Stewart Patchefsky.

Among the signature dishes are Daurade Royal Provencal with chick-pea fritters and lobster-bell pepper jus; stuffed saddle of rabbit with prosciutto, spring vegetables and green lentils; foie gras terrine with pickled vegetable salad; and pistachio crouton.

Price range: Four-course prix fixe menu, $120 per person. Seasonal tasting menu, $145 per person. A tasting of "The Great Wines of France," $350 per person. A vegetable tasting menu is $70 per person.

The dining room and bar are open nightly from 5:30 p.m. to 10:30 p.m. Roger Thomas and Jane Radoff of Wynn Design have created a gorgeous restaurant with a Chef's Table and two private dining rooms.

Attire: Jackets preferred, but not required -- no casual attire. Reservations highly recommended. Call 770-3300.

Bartolotta Ristorante di Mare: Chef Paul Bartolotta brings contemporary Italian coastal cuisine to Wynn Las Vegas. Showcased is rustic, yet refined, Italian cuisine. The pastry chef is Kriss Harvey; general manager is Gianni Toffanello.

Among the signature dishes are gnocchi di patate con fonduta di pomodora, dentice all acqua pazza, costole di maiale Nero al rosmarino e ginepro and stracci con ragu di funghi.

Price range: Appetizers $14 to $24, main dishes $15 to $55, desserts $12. The dining room and bar are open for lunch daily, from 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m.; dinner service nightly, from 5:30 p.m. to 10:30 p.m.

Thomas and Radoff have included a water garden, complete with patio and private dining room.

Attire: lunch, casual; dinner, elegant casual. Reservations highly recommended. Call 770-3305.

Daniel Boulud Brasserie: World-renowned Chef Daniel Boulud has joined Philippe Rispoli, formerly executive chef at Charlie Palmer's Aureole Las Vegas. Rispoli oversees the Brasserie on a daily basis. The pastry chef is Lincoln Carson; general manager is Michael Seznec.

Among the Brasserie's signature dishes: beefsteak tomato with fromage blanc; pizza-like tarte pissaladiere with onions, anchovies and black olives; crispy pork belly with lentils, frisee and spicy mustard; and fricasse of Dover sole almandine.

Price range: appetizers, $8 to $24; main dishes, $18 to $42; desserts, $9 to $15. The dining room and bar are open for lunch daily, 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m.; dinner, 5:30 p.m. to 10:30 p.m.

Designer Jeffrey Beers, of Jeffrey Beers International, gives the brasserie design a modern touch.

Attire: Casual. Reservations highly recommended. Call 770-3310.

Corsa Cucino: Chef Stephen Kalt is highly acclaimed for his Catalan and Mediterranean cuisine. At Corsa Cucina, Wynn Las Vegas' stylish new Mediterranean restaurant, Chef Kalt looks forward to adding a different dimension to the mix of restaurants at Wynn Las Vegas. General manager is Wade Barkman.

Among the signature dishes: Barely Poached Lobster with Tomato Confit; Drunken Santa Barbara prawns with mango, mint, lime and fish sauce; Moroccan pastilla of duck with five-spice seasoning and Marcona almonds and tamarind sauce; Ligurian Octopus Pesto over bucatini.

Price range: appetizers, $11 to $18; pizza, $14 to $17; main dishes $23 to $39; desserts, $9.

Dining room and bar are open daily for lunch, 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m.; dinner, 5:30 p.m. to 10:30 p.m.

Designer, Eddie Soto's open kitchen is an attractive feature.

Attire: Casual. Reservations recommended -- 770-2040.

Takashi Yagihashi joined Wynn Las Vegas to become executive chef of Okada, the resort's praiseworthy Japanese restaurant. Yagihashi's career began in his native Japan. The chef's culinary style is a seamless blend of French techniques, Japanese influences and American ingredients. Chef Takashi has won many culinary awards and high praise from the New York Times who described his Tribute restaurant as "the finest restaurant between New York and Chicago." Pastry chef is Cory Barrett; general manager is Martin Koleff.

Among the signature dishes: Nage of Maine lobster with wok fried rice and coral sauce; Szechuan beef tenderloin; Shanghai wok fried lobster with a chili sauce.

Price range: Appetizers, $3 to $110; Robatayaki, $5 to $12; $5 to $20; main dishes, $22 to $27; desserts, $8.

Dining room and bar hours: Dinner, Sunday to Thursday, 5:30 to 10:30 p.m.; Friday and Saturday, 5:30 p.m. to 11:30 p.m.

Designer Hirsch Bedner has created a splendid environment with a private Japanese garden, floating pagoda table and views of the lagoon. Dine indoor or outdoor.

Attire: Elegant casual. Reservations highly recommended -- 770-3320.

SW, Wynn Las Vegas' signature steakhouse is an American steakhouse with Alsatian influences. Executive Chef Eric Klein was a force at Beverly Hills famed Spago before moving on to Maple Drive in Los Angeles. His early culinary training began in his native Alsace, France, where he worked at a Michelin three-star restaurant, Schillinger. Pastry chef is Vita Stanley; general manager is Mario Disi.

In addition to steakhouse fare Chef Klein offers such signature Alsatian dishes as Choucroute Garnie Royale; Alsatian spaetzle; Fischer beer-battered onion rings.

Price range: Appetizers $12 to $40; main dishes $32 to $45; desserts, $10. Dining room and bar hours: Dinner nightly, 5:30 p.m. to 10:30 p.m.

Designer Vicente Wolfe has created a warm, inviting setting with a copper ceiling and glowing copper lamps. Indoor and outdoor seating and private dining rooms.

Attire: Elegant casual. Reservations highly recommended -- 770-3325.

Red 8: A lively, vibrant Asian eatery features Southeast Asian flavors and Cantonese cuisine, including noodles and other Chinese bistro specialties. The Red 8 menu also features the Malaysian food that Executive Chef Hisham Johari enjoyed while growing up in that country. Other influences are the exotic flavors of Thailand and Indonesia. This is not Johari's first Las Vegas project. Wynn Las Vegas Executive Chef Grant MacPherson met the chef in Malaysia and in 1999 convinced him to move to Las Vegas, where Chef Johari became executive chef at Noodles at Bellagio. General manager is Chiachi Kuo.

Among the many signature dishes are a roast duck and barbecued pork combo; sweet potato porridge with sage; Mandarin beef stew and rice.

Price range: Appetizers $6 to $16; main dishes $10 to $28; desserts $7. Dining room and bar hours: Lunch and dinner Sunday through Thursday 11 a.m. to 11 p.m., Friday and Saturday 11 a.m. to 2 a.m. Dim Sum: Friday, Saturday and Sunday, 11 a.m. to 3 p.m.

Designer Todd Avery Lenahan and Roger Thomas. Smashing decor with red crocodile covered chairs, a variety of wall treatments and a ceiling rampant with Chinese knives and plates. No need to duck.

Attire: Casual. Reservations highly recommended -- 770-3380.

Sugar and Ice and everything nice can be found at this charming patisserie/cafe. Executive Pastry Chef Frederic Robert has dedicated his life to the art and science of pastry. Chef Frederic has made his mark the world over and worked with the late Alain Chapel and with Alain Ducasse for 15 years. Chef Frederic collaborated on a cookbook with Ducasse and was in charge of all of the pastries, desserts and breads for each Ducasse eatery for 13 years.

In addition to being the executive pastry chef at Wynn Las Vegas, Robert will also launch a signature line of fine chocolates, which will be featured in his shop, Chocolat at Wynn Las Vegas. General manager is Jeff Jedlin.

Among the signature items are a rustic lemon tart, New York cheesecake and Fred's signature Bayadere ice creams with such flavors as lemon tarte au citron, apple pie, strawberry pie and marshmallow.

Price range for savory items: $3.50 to $9.50; sweet items: $3.50 to $9.50. Dining room hours: Sunday through Thursday 7 a.m to 11 p.m.; Friday and Saturday 7 a.m. to midnight.

Designer Roger Thomas and Jane Radoff for Wynn Design created jewelry box window displays featuring chocolate jewelry. A conundrum -- do you eat it or wear it?

Attire: Casual. Reservations not necessary. Call 770-3355.

ZooZacracker: This self-serve New York-style deli is a tribute to the Wynn's longtime pal, casino host Charlie Meyerson. Now in that big deli in the sky, Charlie has not been forgotten. There's a painting of the dapper octogenarian in the restaurant. Executive chef is John Regan; pastry chef is Frederic Robert.

Among the signature dishes are a skinny Reuben (is it possible?), overstuffed kosher club sandwiches, pigs in a blanket with baked beans, and a ZooZaburger. Of course there's much more.

Price range: savory dishes, $4.50 to $16; sweet items, $3.50 to $6. ZooZacracker hours: daily 10 a.m. to 11 p.m.

Thomas and Radoff have included flat-screen TVs for sports enthusiasts.

Attire: Casual. Reservations not necessary. Call 770-3365.

Still to come: Tableau, refined American cuisine in a casual, yet elegant setting. Mark LoRusso is the executive chef. At Tableau, Chef LoRusso will feature his signature "Haute American" cuisine. Most recently LoRusso was executive chef at Aqua at Bellagio.

Chef David Walzog has filled the void left when Jimmy Sneed departed weeks before the Wynn Las Vegas opening. It was a difference of opinion involving the culinary direction of his restaurant, Blau said.

Walzog will operate a contemporary steakhouse yet to be named.

Richard Chen joins Wynn Las Vegas as the executive chef of Wing Lei, the resort's stunning upscale Chinese restaurant. It is said that Chen's unique approach combines the fundamentals of Chinese cuisine with non-Asian ingredients.

In addition to being the Chinese translation for "Wynn," Wing Lei means "forever prosperous."

If it is written, so it will be. That's not Confucius, that's Stevens.

Wynn shopping

Las Vegas' shopping scene continues to grow with the addition of many new shops at Wynn Las Vegas.

The following shops are new to Las Vegas and exclusive to Wynn Las Vegas:

Brioni: Offering men's and women's clothing and accessories.

Graff: The finest-quality diamonds and other superb jewelry.

Oscar de la Renta boutique fashions: The first store of its kind in the nation.

Jean Paul Gautier designer fashions: Another one-of-a-kind in the U.S.

Manolo Blahnik shoe salon: Where small heels are offered along with the sexy stilettos frequently worn on "Sex and the City."

Among other familiar names are Cartier, Chanel, Dior, Louis Vuitton, Judith Lieber, Jo Malone and a number of specialty stores; Gizmo's for high-end gadgets; a Wynn signature shop featuring resort wear; and Wynn & Co. Jewelry, featuring such well-known brands as Kwiat and more.

There's a home store, La Flirt for cosmetics, Bags, Belts and Baubles, and a Penske Wynn Ferrari showroom.

Go with the flow of the shops, follow the curve and eventually you'll see them all.

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