Columnist Muriel Stevens: Make your Passover delicious

Wednesday, April 20, 2005 | 8:20 a.m.

It was exciting news that noted French Pastry Chef Francois Payard was introducing his new Kosher Collection of signature chocolates, truffles and flourless cakes in time for Passover, which begins Saturday.

Payard Patisserie & Bistro in New York City wins raves for its exceptional pastries. They are available to East Coast residents online or at "select" Whole Foods markets (not our Whole Foods).

And since we on the West Coast can't yet buy them online, we'll just have to wait until next time for chocolate almond or lemon almond cakes.

You can visit www.payard.com for more information. The recipes that accompany the Passover story that follows are easy to make and delicious.

Passover will begin at sundown Saturday when the first seder will take place. This important Jewish holiday celebrates the exodus of the Jews from Egypt and is at the same time both a solemn and a happy occasion.

Of all the Jewish holidays, Passover is the most challenging for the home cook. Leavened breads are forbidden; Only matzo and matzo products are eaten.

Endless recipes have been developed over the years. Jewish cookbooks seem to become more sophisticated with each year, although the recipes in my pick for this year, "Kosher by Design: Picture-Perfect Food for the Holidays and Everyday," by Susie Fishbein (Artscroll/Shaar Press, $34.99), can easily be mastered by most home cooks.

The Passover section is small, but a three-page section in the back of the book shows how to adjust a number of recipes to make them appropriate for Passover. For the hazelnut-and-honey-crusted veal chop included here, light honey is substituted for the buckwheat or dark honey that was called for in the original recipe.

Such recipes as roasted garlic chicken stuffed with dried fruit, roasted beet salad, glazed chicken breasts with strawberry salsa, a host of side dishes, vegetable dishes and international dishes can easily be converted for Passover. One easy substitute, wherever applicable, is replacing margarine with oil.

"Kosher by Design" is a terrific holiday and year-round cookbook for the kosher cook and anyone who collects ethnic cookbooks.

Passover seders made simple: Not new, but worth its weight in chopped liver, is "Passover Seders Made Simple" by Zell Schulman (IDG Books, $16.95). Included are Passover facts, how to plan your first seder and the ceremonial portion of the service, preparing the Passover plate and how to set the table.

There are six complete menus to choose from -- Ashkenazic, Sephardic, Vegetarian, Healthful, "Off the Shelf" and Ecumenical Potluck.

Additionally, there is a chapter with lists, descriptions and food pairings of kosher wines, spirits and liqueurs for Passover.

Mail-order gift catalogs: A small list of mail-order gift catalogs and gourmet kosher food catalogs can be found in the back of "Passover Seders Made Simple," after the glossary.

Although local sources for kosher foods are growing, it's always wise to have access to new sources.

Shop early for the best Passover selection. And don't miss the sale items. They don't last long.

Recipes: One recipe from each of the cookbooks follows.

This is the perfect Passover cookie, says Schulman. The secret to a perfect lemon thin is using no more than a small teaspoon of the dough and not placing pieces too close together on the baking sheet.

Lemon thins

1 large egg

1/3 c. sugar

1 c. potato starch

2 tsp grated lemon zest

1 Tbs freshly squeezed lemon juice

1/2 tsp vanilla extract

1/8 tsp salt

3 Tbs vegetable oil

Topping

1 Tbs sugar mixed with 1 tsp cinnamon

1. Preheat the oven to 350 F. Lightly grease or spray a baking sheet.

2. Place the egg and sugar in a large bowl and beat with an electric mixer for 3 minutes at high speed. Add the potato starch, lemon zest, lemon juice, vanilla, salt, and oil. Beat on low speed until well blended.

3. Drop small teaspoons of the dough onto the prepared baking sheet, spacing the cookies about 2 inches apart. Bake for 7 to 10 minutes or until the edges are golden brown. Remove the cookies from the oven and sprinkle the tops with the cinnamon sugar. Immediately move all of the cookies to a wire rack to cool. Store in an airtight container.

Makes 4 to 5 dozen