Columnist Muriel Stevens: Fabulous fare at Bellagio gives us butterflies

Friday, April 8, 2005 | 8:27 a.m.

Spring has arrived at Bellagio's conservatory. What a gorgeous tribute to the season. Butterflies, real and faux, cover the gazebos. Masses of tulips, fragrant African lilies, so-tall daffodils and beds of flowers almost too perfect to be real.

A friend and I were headed for lunch at Sensi in the new Bellagio Spa Tower and could not resist a short stroll through the flowers. It is enchanting.

Our walk included a stop at Jean-Phillipe Maury's patisserie, confectionary and cafe. Such perfection.

We finally reached our destination, the global Sensi. Lunch service has just started. New spring menus reflect the depth of the kitchen's talent. Executive Chef Martin Heirling was born in Germany, grew up in New Zealand and has tasted his way around the world. The current lunch menu (soon to be changed) includes a trio of chef's specials, house sandwiches, seafood bar offerings and dishes to share.

Not to be missed is the fried shrimp coated in rice flakes, a Sensi original. We moaned and groaned while trying to decide what to eat. There were soups and salads -- Henry's Famous Wonton Soup, roasted shrimp salad, a seared scallops salad and hot-and-sour soup combo, house-made pastas and grilled, broiled and wood-fired fish, beef burgers, New York steak and a four-cheese pizza.

My choice was one of the Asian Accents -- crisp-fried sea bass atop a bed of black-bean fried rice, studded with bites of Chinese sausage and crystallized ginger confit. The roasted Chinese duck noodles and the Thai beef and chicken lettuce wraps with roasted peanuts and assorted condiments, all house-made, piqued my interest.

While I procrastinated my friend ordered the wood oven-roasted halibut masked with a shrimp gratin. The sizeable piece of halibut was perched on a bed of crisp roasted fingerling potatoes and sauteed spinach. The contented sigh from my friend when he took his first bite of the halibut said it all; Sensi's kitchen is fabulous.

While we waited for our food we devoured the contents of the bread basket. Tiny Parmesan rolls with crisp crusts on the outside; soft and cheesy inside, and pretzel breadsticks that we dipped in the custom mustards and condiments.

Each dish was a triumph for the kitchen. These were original dishes that anyone could understand.

The decor is a wonder. Water accents softly splash down mirrored walls; marvelous natural stone has a dual personality -- polished to a marblelike finish while other large pieces remain untouched. There are so many parts to Sensi.

The chef's table takes you center stage to share the wonder of it all.

Chef de Cuisine Christoph Schoettle works side by side with Chef Heiring, always seeking out unusual vegetables and other comestibles. Bread baker Kenny Macana designs the breads to match the new dishes. These are European-style breads, dense and flavorful. All but a few are baked in-house.

We arrived as the bakers were removing the breads from the ovens. The aroma of chocolate was as intoxicating as Chef Martin's delicious homemade ginger ale. Just one more Sensi specialty that is exclusively theirs.

A sampling of desserts was the ideal ending to our lovely lunch -- four small plates with bite-size portions: a banana fritter like a lollypop on a stick, surrounded by a caramel-cinnamon sauce; a Braeburn spring roll; a tiny chocolate-covered dome of chocolate mousse; and a mini-slice of Italian semifreddo. Whimsical wonders, all.

For Sensi reservations call 234-6358.

Short orders

Remembering Charlie: Zuzu Crackers, the soon-to-open deli at the soon-to-open Wynn Las Vegas, is an insider's tribute to Charlie Meyerson, who was the consummate casino host. Over the years he worked for his close friend Steve Wynn. Meyerson, a dapper octogenarian and ever the gentleman, used "zuzu crackers" as a kinder, gentler term for dung.

Award-winning barbecue pit master now president: Mike Mills, owner and founder of Las Vegas' Memphis Championship Barbecue, was installed as president of the National Barbecue Association on Feb. 21 during the annual National Barbecue Association convention in Houston.

Barbecue is a Mills family tradition. It was Mills' father who taught him the secrets of championship barbecue, and he added some of his own techniques.

Mills original restaurant, the 17th Street Bar & Grill, is located in Murphysboro, Ill. The first Las Vegas Memphis Championship Barbecue restaurant opened in 1995. Now there are four locations, and Las Vegans (including me) are wild about the deep-fried pickle appetizer. Mills has consulted with some of the best-known barbecue restaurant owners in NYC.

Free flowers for Mother's Day from Ethel M Chocolates: What a bloomin' good idea. With every chocolate purchase of $40 or more, Ethel M customers will receive a $40 certificate for a bouquet from Tiger Lily Flower Shop. Don't delay. Certificates will be proffered from April 15 to May 8 at any Ethel M Chocolates location. Certificates can be redeemed at Tiger Lily Flower Shop from May 8 to June 8.

To order chocolates call (800) 438-4356 or fax order to (800) 392-2587 or visit www.EthelM.com.

Sin City Chamber BBQ at Chicken Ranch: Sin City Chamber of Commerce will be holding a spring barbecue at the Chicken Ranch Brothel in Pahrump on April 30. This is not your average chamber event, to say the least, but that's what makes this chamber so different. This poolside event is for chamber members and their invited guests. There's more, but I'll leave it to interested readers to learn more by calling the Sin City Chamber at 450-7222 or by visiting www.sincitychamberofcommerce.com.