Columnist Muriel Stevens: All-star chef lineup delights at Rosemary’s

Friday, Oct. 29, 2004 | 8:38 a.m.

One of the most original, delicious meals this pampered palate has enjoyed took place Oct. 13 at Rosemary's Restaurant at 8125 West Sahara Ave. Dinner on the Trail was a fundraiser for Spoons Across America.

Rosemary's chef/owners Wendy and Michael Jordan joined Chef Tim Love, who owns the Lonesome Dove Western Bistro in Texas, and devised a dinner that was exceptional.

Chef Tim is a cowpoke gentleman that any writer of Western novels would have love to imagined. What a story Tim has to tell. On the morning of the dinner Tim and Michael headed for the Summerlin Farmer's Market. They were on their hosses before sunrise. Tim had brought all of the equipment for a Dutch oven breakfast. Tim dug a fire pit and readied the cast-iron kettles.

A little after sunup, breakfast was ready. Thirty folks turned up to shop and were happy to chow down. I never did find out what the fellers cooked. I was too busy listening to Tim's yarns about life as a bistro owner in Texas. We talked while Wendy and Michael and the ranch hands at Rosemary's cooked dinner. Tim had done his bit before we talked.

Is was a lot like Las Vegas before it was citified.

Dinner was sold out. Regular diners were seated in the "West Wing," Rosemary's events dining room. But they could hear the laughter and the cowboy music in the main dining room. Later, when they learned about Spoons Across America, the source for children's culinary education, they made contributions. Spoons Across America is closely allied with the James Beard Foundation, which strongly supports the organization.

So what did we eat at this singular event? "The Chefs Jordan" as Tim called them, cooked the first course: Creole mustard-crusted wild king salmon on apple smoked bacon and braised white cabbage with Gerwertztraminer butter sauce. Paired with it was Sonoma-Cutrer Russian River Ranches, Sonoma Coast 2003. The salmon was perfectly cooked and wonderful.

When I first read the menu I thought perhaps Tim's course -- eggs, bacon, hash browns and toast was a spoof on the real thing. Nope, this range rider was just having fun, but only sizewise. On our plates were two "over easy" quail eggs, tiny strips of boar bacon, teeny hash browns and a doll-size piece of toast. We ate it all. Our "breakfast wine" was a Fetzer Reserve Pinot Noir, Bien Nacida Vineyard, Santa Maria Valley 2001.

Tim's next course, Kangaroo Carpaccio on butter lettuce with hibiscus vinaigrette was cooked rare and sliced as if it were flank steak, not exotica. Mariah Zinfindel, Mendocino Ridge, 2000 was a good companion.

Tim's final course was a succulent braised veal short rib atop spiced Anasazi beans with fried Swiss chard and a Syrah demi glaze. With this dish we drank Jekel Sanctuary, Sanctuary Estate/Arroyo Seco 1999.

All of the cowboy chef's dishes can be found on the menu at Lonesome Dove Western Bistro in Dallas.

The Chefs Jordan completed our interesting meal with a lovely red wine poached pear and frangipane tart and cardamom ice cream and a coulis made from the poaching sauce.

Rosemary's current menu is being revamped and will debut shortly. Will there be more special dinners? Yes. Rosemary's offers these events three to four times a year.

For reservations or more information call 869-2251.

Table 34 open: Table 34 opened Wednesday at 600 East Warm Springs Road. This should elate the many fans who bemoaned the closing of Wild Sage, the previous restaurant at that location.

Managing the completely refurbished restaurant is former owner Laurie Kendrick. Executive Chef Wes Kendrick, Laurie's brother, is the other half of the management team.

The decor at Table 34 is smashing. Except for the addition of a bar and additional rest rooms where the patio once was, no other structural changes have been made since the restaurant was Wild Sage.

Tile and carpeted areas have been replaced with warm random wood floors. A palette of desert colors adorn the painted walls. Mirrors give the illusion of space. The effect is wonderful. Table 34 is exactly what a neighborhood cafe should be. It's terrific.

And so are the menus.

Included on the lunch menu are soups ($4.75 for a meal-size bowl), pizzas, sandwiches (served with a choice of side dish) and comforting entrees, such as chicken pot pie, gratineed macaroni and cheese, seared salmon and all-beef meatloaf. Lunch hours are 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. Monday through Friday. Lunch is available now; dinner service begins Tuesday.

The dinner menu includes so many longtime favorites: steamed black mussels in white-wine sauce, house-smoked salmon on a crisp potato galette, filo dough-wrapped baked Brie, savory salads, pasta and pizza, rack of lamb, seared Maine scallops, pot roast with herb spatzel, roasted chicken, char-broiled prime beef tenderloin, grilled rack of pork and more.

A menu of luscious desserts ($6.50) is offered at lunch and dinner. Happily, the banana fritters with warm berry sauce, vanilla bean creme brulee, lime tart, lemon cheesecake and other favorites are all in place. I got to sample a new dessert Wes was developing. Still a work in progress, the pistachio brittle that accompanied it was super.

A light Happy Hour menu is featured at the bar and upon request can be served at the table. Buffalo wings, crab cakes, shrimp cocktail and finger foods.

There's also a "catering to go," menu. Great idea.

Remember, dinner service begins Tuesday. Hours are 5 p.m. until whatever time diners want, Tuesday through Saturday.

Short orders

Delta Airlines Song and kids: Beginning on Monday, Delta Air Lines Song, offers lower fares and "high style service," and will offer exclusive organic food items available for purchase on board for babies and kids. Song is partnering with Earth's Best, a top organic baby food line sold in natural food stores. Passengers do not have to make a special advanced request.

Song will also begin offering a Tyke Bytes snack pack with two organic products: Earth's Best Organic Applesauce and an organic fruit leather from Stretch Island Fruit Company. Also included are Teddy Grahams and Goldfish crackers.

Strangest of all diets: I think we're getting more than a little wiggy in the diet department. The latest madness is from New Yorkers Joan Breibart and Meredith Luce. Their diet? Count bites, not calories. Their 21-day plan lets dieters have two "bigger," 18- to 22-bite meals and two 12- to 16-bite meals per day. No snacks allowed.

If you're interested enough to want to learn more go to www.dietdirectives.com. I'm headed for The District at Green Valley Ranch and Ethel M!

Holiday Cocktails: "Holiday Cocktails," by Jessica Strand (Chronicle Books, $15.95) is my pick for book of the week. This small hardcover is filled with a dazzling array of holiday libations. From Scroogedrivers to Shirley Temples, to Santas to Sangrias, they're all here.

Strand guides the reader through a maze of beverages so appealing you'll just have to make one. Buy two books; keep one, give the other as a lasting gift.

Cheers.