Columnist Muriel Stevens: Hue Thai offers distinctive fare, fair prices

Friday, Oct. 15, 2004 | 8:41 a.m.

As our Asian community continues to grow, so does Chinatown. Chinatown Plaza is but one small part of the business and retail complexes that now extend beyond Spring Mountain and Wynn roads.

Hue Thai Sandwiches at 5115 Spring Mountain Road, Suite 223, is a reminder of the days when the French colonized Vietnam. They brought with them their breads and sandwiches and other essentials. With no understanding of each other's food, they created a new way of eating that included the sophistication of French cuisine combined with low-fat, healthful Vietnamese ingredients.

Hue Thai's food is simple and delicious, and is a reflection of Vietnam's French colonial history. Central to the restaurant is a high-speed oven that continuously bakes crisp French breads.

Hue Thai is clean and neat, but not fancy. The staff is caring. Owner Peter Saysomphane can answer any questions. He is endlessly patient.

Sandwiches and other dishes can be ordered at a cafeteria-style counter and brought to the table when ready. There is also table service. Just request it; we did.

While waiting for our food, my dining partner and I sipped a Boba fruit-flavored drink. Boba are large black tapioca balls and are all the rage in California's Asian eateries. They're just now starting to appear in Las Vegas. Boba are soft and chewy, derived from cassava root.

Kids love these sweet drinks. Boba can be added to tea, coffee and other fruit drinks. They are sipped through a large, tapered straw that allows the Boba to easily flow through.

Both my friend and I are fond of Vietnamese food, yet ordering at Hue Thai took us awhile. There were so many unfamiliar dishes to consider. Hue Thai's menu is filled with full-color photographs that depict each dish, but we couldn't make up our minds. Of course, eventually we did. Here's what we ordered: the No. 2 spring rolls, which are two large rolls filled with shrimp, pork and lettuce; flaky crusted baked pork rolls, $1.15 per roll; mini gelatinous rice pancakes with ground shrimp that were steamed in small dishes ($5.25); and a wonderful Vietnamese crisp-soft taco that almost covered the plate.

With it came a variety of exotic lettuces (pull off a piece of taco ($5.75), wrap it in lettuce and dip it in the sauce); a roasted duck leg atop a bowl of yellow noodles; and Chinese meatballs -- called "meat loaf" on the menu ($4.95).

Of course, we ordered too much. Portions are generous, easily shared by two. We never did order a sandwich ($2.33-$2.75). They looked wonderful. The prices make these sandwiches a super value. We'll share one next time

The list of nonalcoholic fruit- and milk-based drinks is endless. There are so many unexpected pleasures here. We took dessert home with us. Tucked in a corner nearby the restaurant entrance is a small counter with pastries and croissants from a local French bakery. It's the real thing. The cinnamon buns were made with buttery brioche dough. Much too good!

Hue Thai is an adventure in dining. With more than 200 dishes and beverages, there's plenty to choose from. Take your time. We saw so many dishes passing by our table that we would have ordered if we'd gone beyond the page of appetizers. Chicken can be substituted for pork in some of the appetizers. Again, just ask.

Hue Thai accepts reservations. Hours are 9 a.m. to 10 p.m. daily. Call 943-8872. Hue Thai is on the second level of the complex. An elevator is near the restaurant; there's ample parking. There's a large Asian market on the ground level that's getting good reviews, as well as several other shops. An interesting place, this new Chinatown.

More new restaurants at Fashion Show: The corner of Fashion Show Lane and the Strip is alive with new restaurants. First to open was Cafe Ba-Ba-Reeba!, a lively tapas restaurant with great appeal.

Next came Ra Sushi Bar restaurant next door to Cafe Ba-Ba-Reeba! This hip, chic sushi hangout serves lunch and dinner and munchies in between. I dined there during one of the practice sessions and was impressed with the service and the cooking.

Lunch specials are featured from 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. daily. Offered are various rice bowls ($7.75-$9.25); Bento boxes (I adore Bento boxes) -- included are miso soup, rice, salad, spinach gyoza, a vegetable spring roll and a choice of main dish ($6.50-$7); and various noodle bowls ($6.75-$9.50). A small wine list is value-priced. I had to ask twice to make certain the prices were correct. Food presentation is beautiful, the surroundings stylish, yet casual. Be aware, the music level rises as the hour gets later. Dine early and it's not a problem.

The Capital Grille Steakhouse is on the third level of the restaurant complex. The elevator is right where valet parking is. What could be easier? The Capital Grille is part of a national group of 20 restaurants acclaimed for dry-aging their steaks on the premises. There is an extensive, award-winning wine list. Among the menu highlights are pan-fried calamari with hot cherry peppers, chilled seafood platters, Sam's mashed potatoes and strawberries Capital Grille.

John Cunin is the managing partner, David Sacco is executive chef and Denise Romayne is the sales and marketing manager. The Capital Grille features three private dining rooms, personal wine lockers and other amenities. The Capital Grille offers dinner nightly; lunch Monday through Friday. For reservations call 932-6637.

Take the elevator at the valet entrance to reach Maggiano's Little Italy on the second level. This family-style Italian restaurant is noted for serving large portions and an environment that's reminiscent of New York's Little Italy restaurants in the '40s, including vintage photos.

It's classic Southern Italy cooking that includes pastas, homemade gnocchi, whole roast chicken with rosemary, veal porterhouse and baked shrimp oreganata.

Maggiano's opened Thursday. There's a 150-seat bar and a second-level balcony dining area that can be reserved for private parties. A private wine room seats 10. Live piano music is offered five nights a week. John Gerarde is the general manager; Anthony Psyk is executive chef. Reservations are accepted for lunch and dinner. Call 732-2550.