Las Vegas Sun

March 29, 2024

Columnist Muriel Stevens: Sushi Roku offers comfort, sophistication

Wandering each level of the latest expansion of the Forum Shops at Caesars led me to Sushi Roku restaurant on Level 3. We had no dining plan and no reservation. It was reasonably early, so we stopped by the reception stand at this new sushi restaurant.

What luck. A table was available. Our timing was right. Within minutes after our arrival Sushi Roku was almost filled to capacity.

Sushi Roku is a beautiful place with sophisticated, welcoming decor. Our small banquette faced the Strip, giving us a view of the bright lights while being warmly embraced by the seductive surroundings.

The music level was magic to these ears that are so used to being assailed by impossible decibels that I carry earplugs. We could enjoy the music, have conversation and even hear our neighbors in the next banquette -- three buff hunks celebrating a friend's birthday.

We were so relaxed we couldn't decide what to eat. Sushi Roku's menu features California sushi and contemporary Asian dishes influenced by the travels and inventive minds of the Innovative Dining Group partners, Michael Cardenas, Lee Maen, Phillip Cummins and Craig Katz. Add a globe-trotting general manager, Brian Marcus -- who speaks four languages, is a very charming fellow and adores his chosen profession -- and all's right with the world.

It was Tara, our server, who suggested that Brian come to our table to assist with our choices. Our dilemma: My friend has an allergy to some peppers; I like a little tingle. Brian's solution? Present the food so that one-half was peppered, the other half not. Now why didn't we think of that?

Here's what we ate: A tartare trio -- toro, yellowtail and salmon presented in small bowls set on a slim, oblong plate. Each tartare was surrounded by its own sauce. It was a marvelous complexity of flavors that held our interest until the last bite had been savored.

Thin slices of yellowtail sashimi were arranged as if they were petals of a flower. There was no pattern to the service. Dishes arrived as soon as they were ready, each one a delicious work of art. The pacing of the service was just right. We were never rushed. There was time to discuss the nuances of each dish, not only with each other, but with our neighbors. After a few courses we were fast friends.

A bowl of baked eggplant cut into ratatouille-like chunks was cooked until just tender, so it kept its shape. It was such a simple dish; it was like a daisy that had lost its way into a splash of orchids in a rain forest. A marvelous contrast. Filet-wrapped asparagus marinated in soy and mirin came at some point -- thin slices of filet wrapped around tender asparagus that made us smile, it was so good.

A sushi plate with crab, sweet shrimp from Santa Barbara and eel and cucumber rolls were nibbled, daintily. I loved the watermelon look-alike paper-thin turnip slices, green, pink and white with a peppery aftertaste reminiscent of the black turnips I was so fond of as a child.

Chilean sea bass in a yazu butter sauce and more superb sushi were part of our dinner. Of course it was too much, but we were reluctant to stop. So many times we said to each other, "No need to feel guilty, it's only fish."

That was before dessert. I was thinking maybe a little sorbet with a splash of wine or maybe one dessert to share. Our three neighbors had four gorgeous desserts. We settled for a decadent chocolate "Volcano," with a molten heart of pure chocolate lava. It was not something we could pass off as guilt-free fish!

Throughout dinner we sampled a number of teas starting with Sencha Uji, which, according to the tea menu, "Is enjoyed by hardened Samurai, haiku poets and hairless monks." In all, we tasted and enjoyed five different teas. There were more. The list is not long, but it is good.

Sushi Roku has a dining room, a bar/lounge with sushi service, a tatami room and a private dining room.

Executive sushi chef is Yoshi Nakazawa. Executive kitchen chef is Vernon Cardenas.

Restaurant service is from 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. Sunday through Thursday; 11 a.m. to midnight Friday and Saturday. Reservations are suggested for prime dining hours. Be prepared to be exuberantly greeted when you arrive. No need for earplugs.

World Gourmet Summit: For the first time the five-day food and wine extravaganza known as the World Gourmet Summit will take place in North America at the MGM Grand in Las Vegas. MGM Grand will be the host for the five-day event (Nov. 19-24) that features master chefs and top winemakers from around the globe.

The World Gourmet Gala and Awards Dinner will take place Nov. 22. This event is the first official induction for newly elected members of the World Gourmet Club. Master classes, vintner dinners and other events are priced from $100 per person. An international wine exhibition is $45.

To understand the scope of this organization or to order tickets call Kurt H. Fischer at (425) 562-2302 or (425) 890-6404, or visit www.worldgourmetsummitlasvegas.com.

Short orders

Ethel M lights the night: Beginning Nov. 17, Ethel M Chocolates at Sunset Road and Mountain Vista in Henderson will offer its 11th Annual "Light the Night" holiday celebration. The splendid cactus garden will be decorated with more than 250,000 lights. This spectacular free community event includes Santa along with live entertainment provided by local school choirs every Friday and Saturday night up until Christmas. The display is open daily to the public from Nov. 17 to Jan. 3. Hours are from dusk to 10 p.m.

And don't forget to visit the Ethel M factory and see how the chocolates are made. They give samples.

Little Buddha menu of the month: Little Buddha restaurant and sushi bar at the Palms will serve its Menu of the Month throughout November.

"We've found our guests are always up for something new," said Little Buddha General Manager Shelly Galloway. November's Menu of the Month features a shrimp cocktail with wasabi cocktail sauce and an entree of stir-fried filet mignon and lobster in a garlic butter sauce served over pan-fried noodles. Dessert is an espresso creme brulee.

All dinners include a glass of Altum Terrematter Merlot. Price is $42 per person. Little Buddha's regular menu and sushi bar are always available. For reservations call 942-7778.

Mensch of the Year 2004: Congregation Ner Tamid will honor Judge Michael Cherry as their Mensch (exceptional person) of the Year on Nov. 20 at the Rio Pavilion. The event includes a silent auction, dinner and a "roasting" of the honoree. Dinner includes hot and cold hors d'oeuvres, heirloom tomato salad, wild mushroom and Kalamata-crusted chicken, petite filet of Black Canyon beef, seasonal vegetables and a surprise dessert sampler. Alternative entrees are available for those with dietary restrictions. For tickets or more information call Roberta Unger at 733-6292.

Koto Japanese restaurant: Opening Koto Japanese restaurant at 9400 S. Eastern Ave. was the culmination of a dream for Toshiaki Horiai (Hoe-D-Eye) and his wife/partner Mary Beth. Toshiaki graduated at the top of his class from Moronbo, a premier Tokyo cooking school. He apprenticed for eight years at Kazugomo, a specialty restaurant in Japan. His career took him to many places, including his hometown of Iwate. It was there that he met native Californian Mary Beth, a dancer and performer.

After their marriage Toshiaki helped open restaurants in Hawaii and Las Vegas. In 1999 the Horiais, who had been living in Japan, returned to Las Vegas, where Toshiaki joined the team at Shintaro at Bellagio working as a sushi chef. Mary Beth joined Nobu at the Hard Rock Hotel. After almost 20 years of saving and planning, Koto restaurant became a reality. "Our small authentic Japanese restaurant serves only a few items that are not classic," Mary Beth said.

Koto serves lunch and dinner. Lunch hours are 11:30 a.m. to 1:30 p.m. Monday through Friday; dinner is from 5 to 10 p.m. Monday through Saturday. Call 221-1600 for reservations or more information.

Junior League cookbook pick of the week: "Las Vegas Glitter to Gourmet" is a colorful hardback volume with a collection of recipes suitable for every level cook. I've been collecting Junior League cookbooks for years and always enjoy them. There's more gourmet than glitter here, but there's plenty of pizzazz in recipes from such personalities as Mayor Oscar Goodman, Rosie O'Donnell, Wolfgang Puck and more. Local chefs and Junior League members worked tirelessly to assure the book's success. Junior League has been a longtime presence in Las Vegas, supporting many community programs with the funds raised from its ongoing charitable endeavors. "Las Vegas Glitter to Gourmet," is just one of its numerous projects. Priced at $24.95, "Las Vegas Glitter to Gourmet" would make a terrific holiday gift. Special discounts are available for large orders (a case of 12 books or more). A recent international women's organization meeting in Las Vegas gave a copy to all 200 attendees. For more information or to order books, contact the Junior League of Las Vegas -- 822-6536 or [email protected].

archive