Columnist Muriel Stevens: Marche Bacchus a slice of French heaven

Friday, May 28, 2004 | 8:28 a.m.

It had been quite awhile since I last visited Marche Bacchus in Summerlin. I like neighborhood eateries where, as the saying goes, "everyone knows your name," but Summerlin is not my neighborhood, and I've got a lousy sense of direction.

My friend, the agreeable diner, and I are accustomed to getting lost. That's how we become familiar with new areas. With directions from the restaurant we made only one false turn (which gave us a lovely picture of the lake) and arrived in time to see the spectacular view from the terrace. We chose to dine indoors.

Marche Bacchus started out as a small wine shop. Eventually a limited menu with sandwiches, soups and salads was added. And somewhere along the way ownership changed hands. New owners Agathe and Gregoire Verge brought with them the expertise and friendliness that any wine shop and restaurant needs to succeed. There is here a genuine spirit of bonhomie that personifies the owners and their staff. It is not surprising that Bistro Bacchus is the unofficial after-hours hangout for many of the Strip chefs.

Marche Bacchus opens at 10 a.m. serving coffee and baguettes to early arrivals. At 11 a.m. the lunch menu is available: soups and salads ($5.99-$8.99); traditional specialities including quiche Lorraine, croque monsieur, a house pizza and lasagna ($7.99-$9.99); a variety of sandwiches, country pate and French sausage ($7.99-$8.99); and a charcuterie plate, a selection of imported cheeses and a combination plate ($10-$13). Lunch is offered until 4 p.m.

It took time for us to order from Bistro Bacchus' dinner menu. There were so many things we liked. Seasonal specials change nightly. For one brief moment I considered having the cassoulet ($23.99), but this is a hearty dish meant to be enjoyed in cold weather. I later learned from Gregoire, however, that any attempt to remove the succulent dish (made with real Toulouse sausage, navy beans and duck confit), and the patrons rebel. Passionate foodies enjoy cassoulet no matter what the season.

We shared two of the appetizers ($8.99 each) -- risotto with a ragout of wild mushrooms atop a tomato concasse. It was served in a tall double-martini glass topped with small, crisp pea sprouts. The freshly made risotto swirled with the mushrooms was delicious. The sweetness of the tomato concasse was a fine counterpoint. Grilled shrimp were wrapped in prosciutto cut a bit thicker than usual. The flavor of the prosciutto and the crunch of the shrimp mixed well with the goat cheese, pine nuts and mesclun greens that composed the salad. Best of all, the greens had been cut into bite size pieces. So easy to eat.

I cannot resist well-cooked mussels. Lately I've had a few disappointments -- heavily spiced broth and empty shells do not bode well for the eager diner. At Bistro Bacchus the plump mussels ($17.99) fill the shells, and the white wine sauce is perfect for dunking the thin slices of toasted French bread. Served with pommes frites (French fries), it is a terrific meal. My friend's mahi mahi was enhanced with pineapple and was surrounded by mashed potatoes. We were content.

Our server, Lucien, was well-informed and delightful. When we wanted the tarte Tatin for dessert he sent Gregoire to the table. It seemed they were experimenting with individual tarte Tatin and Gregoire had not yet reached what he considered perfection. I adore tart Tatin and revere the Tatin sisters, who created it. Gregoire described his Tatin. It sounded wonderful. We ordered it. It was wonderful. The flavor was rich and caramelized. It wasn't as beautiful as Gregoire would have liked. When it comes to tart Tatin, beauty is in the taste buds of the diner.

Dinner hours are 5 p.m. to 9 p.m. The last diners usually depart by 11 p.m., unless, of course, the chefs are coming.

There is no wine list at Bistro Bacchus. The wine shop is the wine list. Choose any wine; the price is retail plus a $10 corkage fee -- a very good price. A small selection of wines is available by the glass. Wines change nightly. It's a terrific policy and a lovely dining experience.

For reservations call 804-8008.

Short orders

Memorial Day specials at Palms: May 31, the Palms Fantasy Market Buffet will be half-price for all guests at all meals. Breakfast (8 a.m. to 10:30 a.m.) is $5.99; lunch (11 a.m. to 3 p.m.), $6.99; dinner (4 p.m. to 10 p.m.) $11.99.

Monte Carlo buffet price changes: Monte Carlo has changed its buffet prices. New prices: Breakfast (7 a.m. to 11 a.m.) is $10.50; lunch (11:45 a.m. to 3:30 p.m.) is $10.95; dinner (4 p.m. to 10 p.m.) is $15.95; Sunday champagne brunch (7 a.m. to 3:30 p.m) is $16.95. Tax is not included. Monte Carlo's buffet features live cooking stations, a Mongolian grill and a wide range of American and international dishes. Freshly carved beef and turkey and many salads, side dishes and desserts.

June is busting out all over at Whole Foods: There's plenty to do besides shop at Whole Foods market at 8855 W. Charleston Blvd. On June 13, on the patio, $5 buys a Gizmos and Gadgets Gourmet Brunch. Tickets are available at customer service. Father's Day, June 20, "Hug your papa" at the BBQ and beer tasting from noon to 3 p.m. The list of free and minimally priced programs and events is long, so pick up a program at the store or call 254-8655 for more information.

Cold Stone Creamery cakes: Cold Stone Creamery is offering a variety of ice cream cakes that will enhance any party. Order these delicious ice cream creations at least four hours before pickup. Sal Rizzo at the Green Valley and Pebble shop recommends the Mud Pie Mojo, a delectable coffee ice cream, peanut butter, Oreo, fudge, roasted almonds and whipped topping creation. There are many more flavors. These cakes are not available by the slice except on July 29, when Cold Stone Creamery hosts a fund-raiser for its favorite charity, the Make-A-Wish Foundation. The fund-raiser is billed as "The World's Largest Ice Cream Social." For more information call Sal at 270-4676.

Food, Wine & Jazz Classic at Lake Las Vegas: From June 10 through June 13 Lake Las Vegas will present a Food, Wine & Jazz Classic that includes a variety of wine, food, and jazz events. A la carte event tickets are available through Ticketmaster (474-4000) or online at www.ticketmaster.com.