Columnist Muriel Stevens: Beard awards validate fine Las Vegas cuisine

Friday, May 14, 2004 | 8:12 a.m.

It is now more than a decade since Wolfgang Puck opened Spago at the Forum Shops at Caesars and led the way for Las Vegas to become a dining destination. Yet the path to culinary glory was not strewn with edible flowers.

Visitors loved what was happening here. Where else in the country could they dine at so many celebrity restaurants? The same restaurants that celebrities and show-biz personalities found so appealing?

It took time for the national food press to accept the notion that Las Vegas, the little oasis in the desert, the little city that once cringed at the Sin City appellation, the same city that now embraces the tag, is a dining force to be reckoned with.

When the 2004 James Beard Foundation winners were announced at the New York Marquis Marriott on Monday, Bradley Ogden and his namesake restaurant at Caesars Palace took home the Illy Best New Restaurant Award. It is the first time that a Las Vegas restaurant has been honored for an award in this category.

Bradley, a modest, unassuming man, was happy to share his experience when I spoke with him after the ceremony. With him at the awards dinner were Caesars President Mark Juliano and spouse Jackie, son Bryan Ogden and Adam Sobel, who are both senior chef tournant at Bradley Ogden; Bradley Ogden Manager John Cunin; Greg Waldron, Caesars' vice president of food and beverage; and Jim Myers, assistant vice president of food and beverage. Jody, Bradley's beloved wife and business partner, was home "minding the store." She shared the excitement via wireless phone.

There's more. On June 19 Bradley Ogden restaurant at Caesars Palace will host a James Beard Foundation Father's Day dinner, with Bradley and Bryan cooking. Already in place is the menu, with seared Kobe beef flatiron steak and a twice-baked strawberry souffle with a strawberry-mint compote. The Father's Day dinner is open to JBF members ($125) and non-members ($150), but it is unlikely that space is available. James Beard Foundation members are the ultimate food groupies, and they book dinners as soon as they're announced.

Bradley is scheduled to appear on the "Today" show June 16. He'll share cooking tips and a few dishes. The affable man is always answering cooking questions at the restaurant. Ask him what he does to make the mashed potatoes so special. It's easy -- and it works.

Valentino Las Vegas at the Venetian wins James Beard Award: Valentino Las Vegas executive chef and partner Luciano Pellegrini took home the American Express Best Chefs in America award for best chef in the Southwest. This award is given to recipients in eight regions. This was Pellegrini's second nomination in two years for this category. When I connected with Luciano I asked if he was basking in the glory. "No, I'm basking in the sun in Central Park, eating a hot dog and watching my 4-year-old daughter, Lily, play. Fonda (his wife) is shopping."

Pellegrini was born in Bergamo, Italy, and came to the United States in 1985. Since his association with restaurateur Piero Selvaggio, whose passion for food and wine is all encompassing, Executive Chef Luciano has become a business partner at Valentino Las Vegas and Caffe Giorgio at Mandalay Place. Selvaggio is the owner of the award-winning Valentino in Santa Monica, Calif., and has won numerous awards for his superb wine collections and the food.

Chef Luciano now joins other James Beard winners with restaurants at the Venetian. Included are Thomas Keller (Bouchon), Emeril Lagasse (Delmonico), Joachim Spichal (Pinot Brasserie), Wolfgang Puck (Postrio), Selvaggio (Valentino), and now Pellegrini (Valentino).

The Pellegrinis are visiting with family in New York. They return today.

Bon Appetit Wine & Spirits Focus at Ritz-Carlton: The 15th Bon Appetit Wine & Spirits Focus at the Ritz-Carlton, Lake Las Vegas was sensational. Perfect weather and a perfect setting on the grounds of the Ritz-Carlton and MonteLago Village raised the pleasure level to new heights.

All of the seminars and dining events were sold out well in advance of the event. With so much space, there was never an elbow-to-elbow moment. The food and drink offerings were soooo good. An illustrious list of chefs was in place. This was the real thing. Friday night's Grand Tasting was the only event I was able to attend. This was a week with many wine and food events. With a magic carpet to fly above the traffic, I might have made more than the four I managed to attend. I don't regret one high-carb biteful taken or one wine sipped.

Calories still count, so have another cookie.

The program book included recipes for dishes offered by some of the chefs. Cafe Ba-Ba-Reeba from the Lettuce Entertain You group in Chicago will open shortly at the Fashion Show. LEY partner Gabino Sotelino (Mon Ami Gabi at Paris) shared his zesty gazpacho. Aureole Executive Chef Philippe Rispoli supplied the recipe for his chilled Dungeness crab and yucca Napoleon with citrus salad. Border Grill's Mary Sue Milliken and Susan Feniger spiced things up with sauteed shrimp with ancho chiles and garlic. James Cohen of Terazza at Caesars Palace featured earthy bucatini with veal meatballs.

Craftsteak's Chris Albrecht shared his and Tom Colicchio's succulent braised short rib recipe. Michael White, executive chef-partner at Fiamma Trattoria, served up the recipe for cappesante, a piquant sea scallop salad. Delish was the apple tart with apple sorbet, offered by Stephan Marshall and Jeremy Bearman of the Ritz-Carlton. Ortanique's Cindy Hutson shared her vibrant West Indian curried crab cakes. Postrio's John LaGrone struck a sweet note with spring garlic soup with morels. Michael and Wendy Jordan's Creole boiled shrimp remoulade with pickled cucumbers tingled with flavor. Valentino's Luciano Pellegrini provided grilled duck breast with smoked onion chutney. When does a peripatetic chef sleep?

Recipes with a food tasting to match -- a cool idea.

Keep Memory Alive: Wolfgang Puck will be honored at Saturday night's benefit for Alzheimer's disease research. The live auction prizes are remarkable. Imagine bidding for dinner with Robin Williams and Emeril, flying in a private jet for an overnight stay with Camille and Larry Ruvo at their poetic Shakespeare Ranch at Lake Tahoe. The winning bidder will have a day of sightseeing and other activities. Chef Emeril will prepare dinner; Robin Williams and his wife, Marsha, will be the dining companions.

Those attending the Alzheimer's event will sup on food prepared by culinary luminaries Paul Bocuse, Daniel Boulud, Alain Ducasse, Thomas Keller, Nobu Matsuhisa, Charlie Palmer, David Robins, Alessandra Stratta and Charlie Trotter. Pure bliss.

Chef tales: Bocuse will tour Le Cordon Bleu College of Culinary Arts Las Vegas today. After the tour he will talk to the students and instructors. They're all atwitter.

Ducasse will fly to Las Vegas after an unexpected trip to Paris. The caring Ducasse will arrive with little time to spare, but he'll be in the kitchen participating.

Short orders

Canyon Ranch SpaClub Cafe: Canyon Ranch Cafe at the Venetian is an ideal place for healthy cuisine. Chef de Cuisine James Boyer whips up creative egg white omelets and wraps, vegetarian fare, soups and salads, pancakes, fresh fish and chicken dishes and, yes, unforgettable desserts. Calories, fat grams and other nutritional information is included. Canyon Ranch Cafe is open daily from 7 a.m. to 6 p.m.

Fusia Asian restaurant at Luxor: Fusia restaurant is now open at the Luxor. For easy access, use Mandalay Place valet. Fusia features a long list of starters ($8-$26) including a dim sum sampler, chicken lettuce wraps, Vietnamese duck spring rolls, Korean barbecue-style spare ribs and much more. Among Fusia's specialties ($26-$34) are white miso lacquered sea bass, a selection of whole crispy fish, twice-cooked duck and spiced, grilled beef filet. Many wok specialties, noodles, mein and rice, including brown rice. Exotic desserts ($8) and a small selection of wines by the glass or bottle. Fusia is open nightly for dinner. For reservations call 262-4700.

Roy's brings Lei Day to Mainland: Celebrate the traditional Hawaiian holiday of Lei Day May 25 at both Roy's locations -- 620 E. Flamingo Road or 8701 W. Charleston Blvd. (Summerlin). Lei Day was inaugurated in 1928 when locals noticed that leis were given to visitors. Leis are a revered symbol of Hawaiian culture, representing love and friendship. The first celebration in downtown Honolulu was the inspiration for Lei Day becoming an official local holiday. It was soon adopted by the other islands. In addition to Roy's nightly Hawaiian fusion menu, Roy's is offering a four-course prix fixe menu paired with wine ($75, tax and tip not included). Guests ordering this special dinner will receive a handmade fresh flower lei flown in from Maui. Aloha!