Columnist Muriel Stevens: Master Sommelier Geddes teams with Rochat

Friday, June 25, 2004 | 8:46 a.m.

Full circle: Master Sommelier Steven Geddes was 17 years old when he began his restaurant career at Andre's French restaurant in downtown Las Vegas. With owner Andre Rochat's encouragement he became a passionate pursuer of wine and food knowledge.

Geddes was one of the youngest master sommeliers ever to earn the coveted title; he was one of only 25 Americans who earned the M.S. diploma in 1995.

Recently, Geddes joined Andre Rochat's Gastronomy Management Group as director of beverage operations. "I am very happy that Steven has rejoined our family of restaurants," Chef Andre said. "His expertise, valuable contacts, knowledge and creativity will benefit our customers and enhance our professional reputation."

Geddes is also bringing his influence to Andre's Bec Fin fine dining series. Already in the works are an August event highlighting wines from the U.S., France, Germany and Hungary. September's Bec Fin dinner will feature a "ringer, an unusual blind wine-tasting," with one course. The October dinner will be a memorable one -- Andre will take from his cellar some obscure treasures to share.

More Andre Rochat: Opening the first week in August is Andre's Mistral restaurant at the Las Vegas Hilton. This latest addition to the Gastronomy Management Group was formerly the elegant Le Montrachet. In the same space with the same glorious architectural columns, Andre and his corporate chef, Jacques Van Staden, will offer innovative French food, outstanding wine selections and impeccable service.

"Mistral will be an eye-opener," Chef Jacques said. "This is not your old cliche French restaurant. This is passionate cooking inspired by the best natural ingredients."

Mistral's menu will typically include such hot and cold appetizers as flash-cooked Monterey abalone, peekytoe crab salad, charcoal-grilled Maine lobster with ruby grapefruit and roulade of smoked salmon filled with spring greens; soups; salads; Dover sole, live Maine lobster; and a lovely selection of entrees.

Select imported and domestic cheeses will be offered along with desserts of the day. Souffles, of course, and other classics, including creme brulee, are also available. For additional information call 385-5016.

Elizabeth Blau in West Hartford: Elizabeth Blau, executive vice president of restaurant marketing and development for Wynn Las Vegas and a West Hartford, Conn., native, was the guest of honor at "Celebrity Chefs & Sommeliers," a fund-raiser for the American Cancer Society.

The event, chronicled in the Hartford Courant by Greg Moraga and Linda Giuca, opened with, "What happens in Vegas doesn't always stay in Vegas, lucky for us."

You bet it was lucky. Blau was joined by a cadre of Las Vegas chefs, along with some of the country's leading wine experts and a host of fine chefs from the East Coast. For one weekend these generous experts cooked and poured and enriched the Cancer Society's coffers by $160,000. Among the Las Vegas contingent were: Kerry Simon, Phillipe Rispoli, Kim Canteenwalla, Daniel Boulud Grant MacPherson, Luke Palladino and Greg Harrington.

Food & Beverage Directors host annual gala: The Food and Beverage Directors Association of Nevada dinner at The Venetian on June 19 honored James E. Rogers with the esteemed Autrui Award. Rogers is chairman and chief executive of Sunbelt Communications, interim chancellor of the University and Community College System of Nevada and an all-around good guy. Orleans Executive Chef Christopher R. Johns was recognized for Culinary Achievement. Chef Chris has an extensive culinary background. He was born in Wales and attended many fine culinary arts schools. Johns has traveled extensively and worked in fine restaurants overseas and in Las Vegas. Johns is deeply involved in the Chef for Kids program, a foundation to fight malnutrition and hunger through education and awareness, and is now the chairman. The evening included a reception with low-carb foods a nd wines; an international display of cheese, fruit and breads; a silent auction and entertainment by funnyman George Walla! ce, singer Marlene Ricci and pianist Tim Boatman.

KVBC Channel 3 anchorwoman Sue Manteris was a lovely emcee. Dave Williamson, Chairman of the F&B Directors Association, welcomed everyone. Dinner was festive and delicious: spring morel cappuccino, field green salad with goat cheese crostini and an extravagant entree of grilled polenta topped with a beef filet, Hudson Valley foie gras and sauteed spinach crowned with medallions of lobster and a drizzle of Armagnac demi-glaze. Dessert was a signature fantasy from The Venetian's Executive Pastry Chef Long Nguyen: a trio that included ginger creme brulee, tapioca in flaky pastry and an orange-scented chocolate mousse timbale with a raspberry center.

FBDA is a nonprofit association dedicated to assisting those individuals who are committed to pursuing a career in the food and beverage industry, and to aid and improve the lives of disadvantaged citizens of Las Vegas.

Heinz Lauer of Le Cordon Bleu named 2004 Chef of the Year: This has been a busy year for Las Vegas chefs and food-related organizations, and for food writers who follow the mad pace of the hospitality industry.

Since I was not able to attend the Fraternity of Executive Chefs of Las Vegas 2004 Chef of the Year dinner at Sam's Town, I was delighted to receive a copy of the program book. These programs are never on the dinner table. To preserve the secrecy, they are distributed after dinner.

The Fraternity of Executive Chefs of Las Vegas was founded in 1968 by 14 executives from Strip and Downtown hotels. Reading the history of the organization written by Ed Kane (now deceased), who influenced so many culinary students attending Vo-Tech High School, was a poignant moment. Kane was a wonderful instructor and will always be remembered.

It was a different Las Vegas in 1968 than the one we now take for granted. Who could have imagined the dining scene today in those days of bountiful beef and buffets and little else?

And, who could have imagined a Le Cordon Bleu school of cooking in Las Vegas? A highlight of my life was a week spent in Paris at a tiny storefront Le Cordon Bleu and, later, a few days at Le Cordon Bleu in London in the '60s.

This year's Chef of the Year, Heinz Lauer, is the executive chef and head chief instructor for Le Cordon Bleu College of Culinary Arts Las Vegas. He is, as are all of the chefs in this organization, dedicated to the basics; the techniques and procedures that are so important for any student to learn.

Art Vega, Sysco Las Vegas produce manager, was named 2004 Associate of the Year; Wendy Cohen, CCSN culinary arts student, was named 2004 Junior Member of the Year. Cohen will graduate with an Associate of Arts degree with emphasis on baking and pastry arts.

Congratulations all of the nominees and winners.

To encourage more membership, the organization recently changed its name. According to 2004 President Robert H. O'Brien, "In March the membership voted overwhelmingly to approve the name change from Fraternity of Executive Chefs of Las Vegas to ACF Chefs of Las Vegas." This opens the membership door to all chefs, including assistant executive chefs, room chefs, specialty chefs, sous chefs and more.

Short orders

Sammy's ooey, gooey Sundae school: Take the family to Sammy's Woodfired Pizza, 6500 W. Sahara Ave., on Sunday and get a hands-on lesson by a Sammy's professional sundae expert. Who knew you needed a lesson to make a scrumptious Giant Messy Sundae? Making these monstrous sundaes at home, you can lick the overflow from the tall sundae glass, not something you would normally do in public. The free lesson is from 2 p.m. to 4 p.m. The kids will love it!