Columnist Muriel Stevens: Maccioni’s storied life has come full Cirque

Friday, June 11, 2004 | 10:04 a.m.

Muriel Stevens' dining column appears Fridays. Her shopping and travel columns appear Wednesday. Reach her at (702) 259-4080 or muriel@lasvegassun.com.

At long last legendary New York restaurateur Sirio Maccioni has written the memoirs he's been longing to write for years.

Maccioni's Le Cirque restaurant in New York has been a magnet for royalty and presidents, power brokers and celebrities for three decades. There were many stories to be told, beginning with his childhood "in rural Tuscany during World War II."

Maccioni needed someone to assist in writing his memoirs -- someone he could trust, someone who would become a friend. The search began. Many answered the call, but like an arranged marriage, the magic was missing until Peter Elliot entered the scene.

It was their mutual friend, New York Post columnist Liz Smith, who brought together Maccioni and Elliot, food critic for Bloomberg L.P. and host of "Dine(Go)," which airs on Bloomberg Radio in the New York area and nationally on satellite radio.

Elliot had never written a book. This was one he wanted to write. Elliot tells the story of their many meetings (with meals at Le Cirque, of course) with insight and affection. It took five years to complete and publish "Sirio: The Story of My Life and Le Cirque." (John Wiley & Sons, Inc. $29.95)

It is a story of courage, character and a complex, caring man who never hesitated to speak his mind.

During a chat we had before a book signing and luncheon hosted by Phyllis McGuire and Lauren Maccioni (wife of Sirio's son Mario), we talked about the luminaries who considered Le Cirque a second home and how he graciously diffused the small tiffs and pets that sometimes occurred.

"Sometimes they need someone to bring them back to reality," Sirio said.

Sirio loves Las Vegas, his family and his restaurants. He visits the restaurant frequently with Mario (who is the director of Le Cirque), Lauren and his three grandchildren. When speaking about Mario, Sirio beams with pride, saying, "My wish for Mario is that he surpasses me."

Sons Mauro and Marco oversee New York's Osteria del Circo. Another Le Cirque recently opened in Mexico City. It is said to be the most beautiful of all the Le Cirques. So, who was minding Le Cirque New York? Egidiana Maccioni, Sirio's wife. They met as youngsters in Tuscany and waited to marry until Sirio was able to send for her. Their love is as strong today as when they met.

Copies of "Sirio" are available at Bellagio and at local bookstores. A book signing will take place Tuesday at Le Cirque in New York. More than 1,000 guests have already responded.

Lunch prepared by Executive Chef Marc Poidevin and Le Cirque Chef Jeremy Lieb was a delight. Assorted canapes and champagne during the reception was followed by Le Cirque's signature lobster salad with truffle vinaigrette; a petit mushroom cappuccino; a choice of "New Rossini," roasted beef tenderloin with foie gras and a bouquet of spring vegetables or seared San Francisco halibut with tender braised chard and a sauce of spring morels.

Dessert included a petit creme brulee "Le Cirque," and a small hazelnut ring filled with marinated strawberries and topped with sorbet. All of the dishes are part of Le Cirque's menu.

Sirio welcomed everyone, Peter talked about the book, and Elizabeth Blau-Canteenwalla spoke about her first position after college, answering phones at Le Cirque. Ah, the stories she can tell. Autographed copies of "Sirio" were given to guests as a parting gift.

More Sirio: There were some tender memories of Nancy and former President Reagan offered by Sirio before the guests arrived. Sirio is not interested in politics, although he is up to date on world affairs. Over the years the Reagans and Maccionis developed a close personal friendship. The stories Sirio shared were a lovely testimony to a friendship that has remained constant through halcyon days and tragedy.

Isla Kitchen and Bar at Treasure Island: Let's talk tequila and gorgeous tequila goddesses and zesty, original Mexican food developed by Chef/restaurateur Richard Sandoval, who owns the award-winning Maya restaurant in New York, and who developed the concept for Placido Domingo's Pompano seafood restaurant.

Sandoval makes his home in California and will be a presence at Isla. He will be at Isla for at least one month. What makes Isla's Mexican food a standout is Sandoval's ability to blend his family's recipes with traditional Mexican and sweeten the mix by applying European principles. The result is sensational. The small plates or starters include crispy empanadas ($7) filled with shredded beef, toasted pine nuts, dried cherries and a drizzle of chipotle tomato sauce. There is a temptation to want to order seconds; instead have the crunchy trio of corn masa cakes ($7) with various toppings.

Sandoval's selection of enchiladas, tamales and burritos ($11-$16) include a pulled pork tamale with sweet and spicy chipotle sauce; crab and shrimp enchiladas with lobster tomatillo sauce and three-seafood tostadas. I can't wait to return to order crispy rock shrimp tacos laced with chipotle rouille, a Mexican spin on the garlicky mayonnaise.

A guacamole cart offers three styles ($9-$15), including lobster guacamole with achiote passion fruit and serrano chiles. The cart is pretty, the servers adept at making the guacamole as you watch.

The huitlacoche dumpling served with the grilled Mexican spiced chicken breast ($18) is smashing. Huitlacoche is a truffle-like fungus that grows on corn. It is expensive and difficult to find. I was delighted to learn that Sandoval has a good supply tucked away in his freezer.

Among the family recipes is roast pork pipian ($18). Lean pork tenderloin is marinated in tamarind sauce. Slices of the roasted pork are placed atop a bed of crushed corn and encircled with pumpkin seed sauce. A most felicitous combination.

Confer with the tequila goddess before ordering drinks. Flights of tequila are a good way to start. This is the way to learn more about tequila than you ever wanted to know, but it's fun. Margaritas are from scratch, fruits in the drinks are house-muddled.

Outside the restaurant is a patio bar with a menu of small plates. Good for a light bite and drinks before or after a show and some people watching.

Isla's hours are 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. daily. For reservations call 894-7349.

Short orders

Coca Cola C2 debuts: Coca Cola C2 is making its way to stores and vending machines all over our area. What makes C2 different is it has half the carbs, calories and sugar of regular cola and is said to have "all the great taste of Coca Cola." That wasn't my experience. I followed the directions "to ensure the best first taste possible." I did not add ice and I let it get nice and cold. When I want a soft drink it's a diet Coke. Diet and regular Coke do taste pretty much the same. C2 has no distinctive flavor. It's not unpleasant. It's just not the Coca Cola flavor I like.

MooLatte at Dairy Queen: Dairy Queen will be offering samples of its new MooLatte frozen blended coffee drink line Sunday through June 19 at Dairy Queen locations and Dairy Queen Treat Center locations in malls every weekend in June. MooKay, it's good to be able to taste-test products before buying them. Putting ice cream into coffee is not new, MooLattes made with soft-serve Dairy Queen is.

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