Columnist Muriel Stevens: Chocolate Swan amazes at Mandalay Bay

Friday, Jan. 30, 2004 | 8:44 a.m.

Dessert before dinner? Why not? It was not what I'd originally planned. I was on my way to the Beringer wine dinner at Caffe Giorgio at Mandalay Place. I just couldn't resist stopping by the Chocolate Swan. It's just steps away from Caffe Giorgio and I had plenty of time before dinner. So into this irresistible bakery, candy and gift shop my dining companion and I went.

There are two Chocolate Swans at Mandalay Bay. All of the candies, cakes and pastries are made in the Mandalay Place kitchens; all of the custard-based ice creams are produced in the kitchens of the Chocolate Swan on the casino level next to the House of Blues. Incredible as it might seem, Chocolate Swan owner Mary Basta creates every confection and pastry. There are no shortcuts taken. It's a remarkable feat that requires long hours and a good staff -- and a supportive spouse. Bob Basta is Mary's partner in life and business.

Among the many specialties at Chocolate Swan are scrumptious jumbo chocolate eclairs with an original cream filling, a sampler plate, sundaes, divine cheesecakes and tortes, dark or light chocolate-enrobed truffles with a variety of fillings, strawberry logs so gorgeous they could substitute for a wedding cake (although wedding cakes are another house speciality), Peet's coffees and teas and a selection of sparkling wines, champagne, wines, cordials and brandies. A complete bar selection will be available shortly.

Mary is a perfectionist who obsesses over each piece of pastry or candy. One bite and you'll never forget the Chocolate Swan. Mail order is available.

How does she do it all? It's a labor of love for this sweet lady.

Chocolate Swan hours at Mandalay Place are 9:30 a.m. to 11 p.m. Sunday through Thursday; 9:30 a.m. to midnight Friday and Saturday. The location next to House of Blues is open daily from 9:30 a.m to midnight. Information: 632-7777.

Caffe Giorgio Beringer wine dinner: Wine dinners are a lovely way to spend an evening. Beringer is one of the oldest wineries in Napa Valley. A recent Lee's Wine Club newsletter edited by Rami Lempert-Schwarz included this bit of history:

Beringer Vineyards was established in 1876 by brothers Jacob and Frederick Beringer, who emigrated to America from Mainz, Germany. The first vineyard they purchased, the St. Helena Home Vineyard, is still in the family today. Since 1982 it has been a key component of the Private Reserve Cabernet blend. Three of the Private Reserve Cabernets were part of a lively discussion encouraged by Kim Caffrey, Beringer trade program manager.

Our dinner took place in one of Giorgio's intimate private party rooms. Overseeing the event was assistant manager "Enrico." In the kitchen were Valentino and Giorgio Executive Chef Luciano Pellegrini and Giorgio Chef de Cuisine Nico Chessa.

With the first course, sea bass carpaccio with blood orange dressing and olive oil, we sipped the 2001 Knights Valley Alluvium Blanc, a pleasant, light wine. With the tasty pasta, maccheroncini with quail sausage, eggplant, buffalo ricotta and fresh San Marzano tomatoes, came a 2000 Sbragia Limited Release Chardonnay that inspired much discussion.

Now came the fun. This lusty Chardonnay is named for Beringer's Ed Sbragia, who created it. From the first sip it aroused our taste buds. Everyone liked its hearty style. With the entree, roasted squab with a wild berry demi-glace, came a sampling of 1993, 1994 and 1995 Private Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon.

While Caffrey attempted to plead her case for the Cabs with the rich, gamey squab, most of us preferred the rich, fruity Sbragia Chardonnay. Discussions such as these are at the heart of any wine tasting. There were no losers, of course. All the wines were fine. Yet individual tastes are always the final word.

The 2000 Nightingale (named for former head winemaker Myron Nightingale), a delightful, late-harvest wine made from Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon, was perfection with dessert -- panna cotta custard with caramel sauce and tiny cat's tongue cookies. Simply lovely.

Hubert Keller's Burger Bar: Snugly situated between the Chocolate Swan and Caffe Giorgio is Hubert Keller's Burger Bar. Keller is the owner of the notable San Francisco French restaurant Fleur de Lys and is building a Fleur de Lys French restaurant at Mandalay Bay nearby Charlie Palmer's Aureole. A May-June opening is anticipated.

When the opportunity to acquire Burger Bar was offered, Keller said "Yes." No wonder. When I peeked through the windows I saw a handsome, comfortable restaurant with appealing decor and terrific visibility. Burger Bar will open mid-February and will offer a selection of burgers never before seen in Las Vegas.

Keller is a delightful man. His enthusiasm is boundless. With his charming wife, Chantal, at his side, he can conquer all challenges. When we recently chatted he talked about how much he enjoyed Las Vegas and how happy he was to be moving here. But most of all we talked about the Burger Bar.

No need to worry here about eating ground beef. All of the meats are organically grown and will be freshly ground in the kitchen. In addition to beef burgers there will be lamb, turkey, chicken, salmon, tuna, tofu and veggie burgers. Burger Bar will feature side dishes and garnishes galore. There will be many different cheeses and add-ons from grilled onions to smoked salmon to freshly sauteed foie gras. Oh yes, they also have a selection of regular and specialty burgers such as the Blackjack, made with Black Angus beef.

One side of the menu is devoted to ideas for making your own original burger if you want to get creative. Prices range from $9.25 for a classic bacon cheeseburger to $55 for an astonishing Kobe beef Rossini burger with seared foie gras and truffles. All of the burgers include garnishes. Among the other enticements are: 24 beers on tap, a full-service bar, "sweet burgers"-- beignet-like buns filled with ice cream -- and all sorts of goodies. Homemade pies, cheesecakes and milkshakes round out the dessert selection.

"How do you feel about all this?" I asked Hubert in between the laughter.

"It's pretty exciting, a Frenchman opening a burger (restaurant) in Las Vegas," he responded. More laughter.

Also exciting is the staff who will work both Fleur de Lys and Burger Bar. All of the executive team are from Fleur de Lys San Francisco and will be involved in both restaurants: Manager Philippe Tosques will contribute, Fleur de Lys Executive Chef Laurent Pillard will also oversee BB and Sous Chef William Mannes will be sous chef for both restaurants. With the opening only a few weeks away, we'll soon be ordering our own designer burgers.

Short orders

Puck restaurants celebrate Super Bowl Sunday: Spago in the Forum Shops at Caesars, Postrio in the Grand Canal Shops at The Venetian and Trattoria del Lupo at Mandalay Bay will sport new, 42-inch, plasma-screen TVs at every bar and serve casual foods designed to not get in the way of the game. At Spago, Executive Chef David Robins will cook up ham-and-cheese panini with whole-grain mustard on sourdough or a turkey sandwich on ciabatta bread or a classic meatball sandwich with mozzarella cheese and crisp french fries. Perhaps an iceberg lettuce wedge with bacon, hard-cooked eggs and buttermilk-blue cheese dressing or a Spago shrimp pizza or calzone will satisfy your fancy. Spago Super Bowl hours are 11 a.m. to 11 p.m.

At Postrio, chef John LaGrone is offering a variety of wood oven-baked pizzas with such tasty toppings as roasted chicken with a melange of veggies, goat cheese and shaved Parmesan or the always-satisfying smoked salmon pizza with caviar and creme fraiche. Postrio Super Bowl times -- 11:30 a.m. to 11 p.m. Strictly Italian are the choices at Lupo. Chef Mark Ferguson interprets Puck's Italian dishes with style that's casual and delish. Lupo's Super Bowl hours are 5 p.m. to 11 p.m.

Wine dinner at Piero's: Piero's, the venerable steakhouse and Italian restaurant on Convention Center Drive, will be part of a special wine dinner series kicking off Feb. 2. Silver Oak wines will be featured. Tickets are $150.

A portion of the evening's proceeds will benefit the Community College Culinary Arts and Nursing Foundation. The event is sponsored by DeLuca Liquor and Wine Ltd.

Piero's Chef Gilbert has planned a terrific dinner with a stone crab and shrimp appetizer, a Maui onion and hearts of palm salad and a choice of entree -- osso buco, filet mignon or salmon; and an array of chocolates and a glass of Port for a smashing finish. On hand to greet guests will be Piero's owner, the maestro himself, Freddie Glusman. Space is limited. For reservations call wine buyer Pat Rost -- 279-6841 or 369-2305.

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