Columnist Muriel Stevens: Resort a treasure trove of edible delights

Friday, Jan. 9, 2004 | 8:26 a.m.

It was pure serendipity that I decided to spend a holiday vacation at the Ritz-Carlton, Lake Las Vegas, rather than fly to some exotic locale.

That decision, made long before the orange travel alert was posted, saved my traveling companion and I from having to brave long lines and having our shoes and carry-on bags inspected at each leg of a journey.

I have no quarrel with safety measures, but it has dampened the ardor for flying that I once had.

And I was trying to win the battle with a back problem that plagued my every step, so a carefree excursion could prove be the right prescription. And so it was.

Packing was a cinch. With no concerns about weather, extra gear or excess baggage we loaded up the car and were on our way.

We arrived at Lake Las Vegas too late for lunch in Cafe Medici, so after checking in we made our way to the Firenze lounge, where light fare is available from 11 a.m. to 1 a.m.

Casual and comfortable, Firenze offers a small menu with salads, sandwiches, soup and such. Watching the food go by as we waited for a server helped us make up our minds. We shared one terrific smoked chicken club on focaccia bread ($14) and a field green salad.

The sandwich was humongous and filled with delicate, house-smoked chicken, apple-pepper bacon and avocado. We chose to have the aioli (garlicky mayonnaise) on the side. Our salad was a mix of seasonal greens with a light dressing. We shared the sandwich and still had some left over.

One section of Firenze is the tea salon. A Florentine afternoon tea is served daily at two seatings -- 1 p.m. and 3 p.m. Reservations are strongly recommended. We failed to make one and were almost shut out, but someone canceled and we were there so we got the table.

The fig and prosciutto sandwiches and everything else are just right. Biscotti and scones, lemon curd and mascarpone cream and much more are included ($24) along with a large selection of teas. The table appointments are gorgeous. Our 3 p.m. tea was so generous we skipped dinner.

Chef Stephen Marshall, who directs the food operations at the Ritz-Carlton, and his staff make everything from scratch.

Our rooms were on the club floor on the bridge. We not only had a clear view of the lake and the gardens, but we were able to enjoy the use of the club lounge, where light meals were served, including breakfast, lunch, afternoon hors d'oeuvres and a much-too-tempting dessert buffet in the evening.

One morning we arrived to find Chef Stephen and one of his chefs arranging the chocolate chip cookies and biscotti in large glass crocks. These works of art were scrumptious.

We sampled just about every meal offered, including room service. The fixed price lunch featured in Cafe Medici from Monday through Friday is a fabulous buy at $19. Included are choices for each course.

Here's what I ordered -- French onion soup bubbling with melted cheese atop a saucer-size crouton, pasta puttenesca with rock shrimp and espresso bean tiramisu. My companions opted for dinner-plate-size pizzas and salads and we shared all of the desserts. It was a lively and delicious meal.

My friend and I had made advance reservations for Cafe Medici's Christmas Day prix fixe dinner ($42). The dining room and public areas were aglow with candles and swags of fir branches with red and gold ribbons. It was all so festive.

Included with dinner were relishes, specialty breads and an assortment of savory tapenades (olive spreads) and a choice of champagne cocktail. The appetizer options were all tempting, but I couldn't resist the roasted chestnut bisque drizzled with pomegranate syrup and studded with pieces of chestnut. It was simply divine.

We both chose the rack of lamb for our entree. In celebration of the season, traditional side dishes were served family style -- buttery golden potato puree, pearl onions and English peas, roasted sweet corn and cepes, sweet potato Dauphinoise, oyster spoon bread stuffing and cranberry relish. It was indeed a feast.

We dined leisurely, savoring every bite. A small selection of seasonal desserts were offered, including a chocolate praline Buche de Noel (yule log). Our choices were the roasted winter pear with honey-pecan ice cream and a cranberry compote and a dense almond cake with warm strawberries and caramelized lemon chiboust, a custard made with chiboust lemons.

Service was flawless despite a steady stream of diners. I later learned the dining room staff had turned over more than six times. It was a remarkable performance by a staff that was in high gear throughout the holiday week. Pastry Chef Patrice Caillot and his crew turned out massive amounts of flaky croissants and other breakfast specialties, breads of every description and luscious desserts for every meal.

There's more: lavish Saturday and Sunday brunches, RitzKids menus and patio dining when weather permits. Plan ahead and be sure to check out the special room rates for locals. For more information call 567-4700.

Short orders

Jeremy Bearman joins Ritz-Carlton: The new Chef de Cuisine at the Ritz is Jeremy Bearman. Chef Jeremy was most recently executive sous chef at db Bistro Moderne in NYC. I understand the young chef blew away the competition at the tasting he prepared as part of his interview. With such mentors as Daniel Boulud and Jean Francois Bruel, Chef Jeremy will be a welcome addition to the Ritz-Carlton culinary team.

Claim Jumper opens in Green Valley: Claim Jumper has staked a claim in Henderson that's certain to make the neighbors happy.

I'd never eaten at a Claim Jumper until this week. It's quite an experience. Never have I seen such large portions of good food at such reasonable prices. A barbecued chicken quesadilla ($8.95) is large enough for three to four people. With it comes a mound of delicious Thai slaw that's not dripping with dressing.

Take-home boxes are part of the scene. There's a take-out menu with an excellent selection. More about this unusual chain later. The new Claim Jumper is at 601 Green Valley Pkwy. on the northwest corner right off I-215 (the Summerlin location is at Fort Apache Road and Charleston Boulevard). General Manager Heath Bumgardner shared some helpful advice for getting a table at peak times.

Reservations are not accepted except Monday through Friday at lunchtime for parties of eight or more. Call 933-0880 to be put on the wait list. Someone will give you an approximate time to show up. Claim Jumper hours are 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. Sunday through Thursday and 11 a.m. to midnight Fridays and Saturdays.

Lunch service at Fiamma at MGM Grand: Fiamma Trattoria at MGM Grand will begin lunch service Monday. Offered daily from 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. will be such Italian specialties as a selection of antipasti, pizza, panini and pasta.

Also included are such signature dishes as Fiamma salad with grilled chicken, crisp pancetta and Gorgonzola cheese; truffled pizza; San Daniele prosciutto panini; and raviolini filled with braised short rib meat and glazed with Barbera wine. Fiamma's dinner hours are 5:30 p.m. to 10:30 p.m. nightly. The bar and lounge are a popular stop. Fiamma Trattoria is at MGM Grand's Studio Walk. For reservations call 891-7600.

Canter's deli closes for expansion: Canter's deli counter at TI has closed temporarily to make way for the new full-service, 125-seat restaurant. Completion is expected in spring (an April opening is the goal). I can already taste the signature barley-bean soup and the tender, but lean, pastrami.

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