Wednesday, Feb. 4, 2004 | 8:16 a.m.
Ferraro's Italian Restaurant and Lounge recently added something to its sign. Above the existing logo now sits the word "Mimmo."
Aesthetically it's a small change, but for the Ferraro family it carries significant meaning.
For new owner Mimmo Ferraro, the son of Gino and Rosalba, it means the fruition of years of hard work.
For his parents, it means getting to spend more time with customers while keeping their family intact.
For grandmother Teresa, it means her legacy of authentic Italian dishes will continue.
And for patrons, it means the quality of food and service they're used to over the last 17 years won't change.
Neither will the Ferraros, who moved here nearly 30 years ago and have made it their goal to become an integral part of Las Vegas.
Space at the family's West Flamingo Road restaurant is used efficiently, with three separate dining areas and a lounge with a piano. Large windows let plenty of light in, and cherry wood chairs and white tablecloths blend well with reddish carpeting throughout.
Offerings include stuffed bell pepper, timballo sardo (a sauteed medley of eggplant, sun-dried tomatoes, celery, pine nuts and raisins, topped with goat cheese), fegato veneziano (calf's liver and onions in a Chianti and veal stock reduction) and osso buco (veal shank in barolo sauce, listed as the restaurant's "signature dish").
In addition to a large tourist clientele, the establishment enjoys a healthy celebrity turnout, including Rob Lowe, Andy Garcia, Brad Pitt and Benjamin Bratt. (Gnocchi, homemade potato dumplings, are listed on the menu as "Julia Roberts' Favorite.")
The restaurant's awards are almost too numerous to list. They include Best Italian Restaurant from the Nevada Concierge Association, multiple Epicurean Awards and several Distinguished Restaurants of North America Awards in the last few years.
Watching and learning
Gino Ferraro, 49, came to Las Vegas in 1976 with plenty of business experience and a love of fine food instilled by his mother, Teresa.
While growing up in Calabria, Italy, Gino would often help Teresa in the kitchen. His father, Domenico, was a barber who owned his own shop and his mother supplemented the family income by cooking for people around her village.
"I always watched her cook," Gino said. "I was fascinated by her cooking."
Teresa was well known in the community for her pastas, lasagnas and gnocchi (all her recipes are still used at Ferraro's today).
"I observed in Italy, but I was always fascinated by food in general," Gino said.
Gino's grandparents immigrated to America in the 1940s, and after Gino's grandfather was killed in the Korean War his entire family became eligible for permanent legal residence in the United States. After selling their property and business in Italy, the family -- Gino, his five siblings and parents -- moved to Syracuse, N.Y., in 1966.
The transition to American life was awkward at first. The family lived in a flat over the apartment of Gino's grandmother and aunt for a few years until they could afford a home. In the meantime, Gino's father went back to work as a barber and his mother continued to cook.
Gino continued to observe her craft, and as time went by he learned her secrets. "I also learned from books and from trial and error."
Head for business
In 1971, when he turned 17, Gino and a partner opened a coffeehouse in Syracuse. It was an instant success, serving as both a place to eat and a social club, complete with Foosball tables.
"The north side of Syracuse was Italian, so we had a very successful operation," Gino recalls.
During his stint at the coffeehouse, Gino married Rosalba, who he met in junior high, in 1974. Mimmo was born four years later.
While living in New York, Gino would often visit his cousin in Las Vegas, who operated an Italian delicatessen on West Sahara Avenue.
"I was here in December, and it was just gorgeous," Gino said. "It was freezing in New York. I told my wife, 'I just saw the future here.' "
In 1976 Gino left his coffeehouse to his brother, Joe, and moved to Las Vegas. He immediately laid the groundwork to start another coffeehouse in Las Vegas, but was given bad news by the loan officer.
"He said, 'You're crazy. That's not going to work here,' " Gino recalls. "I had $30,000 of my own money, but that wasn't enough to start my own business."
So to raise funds, Gino went to dealing school and worked a year at the old MGM (currently the site of Bally's).
"I hated it," Gino said. "It was boring. There was no job satisfaction at the end of the night."
The money, however, was good, so Gino stuck with it and eventually was promoted to floor supervisor, then pit boss and, finally, backup shift manager.
By 1983 Gino had made a lot of friends through his work at MGM.
Two of those friends, along with Gino, opened a wholesale company at Highland Avenue and Spring Mountain Road (currently the site of a Las Vegas Cheese Company.)
Even though they all now owned homes and had money saved, they still needed a bank loan. They were approved for a $180,000 loan -- by the same loan officer who had refused Gino years earlier.
"We sold Italian food products to hotels, restaurants and pizza shops," Gino said. "My mother was in charge of manufacturing. My wife was always with her."
In 1985, using the funds he had raised through the wholesale company, Gino opened his own delicatessen at the corner of Sahara Avenue and Jones Boulevard. His mother came with him, and it did "unbelievable business," selling fresh-made breads, sausages, calzones, pizzas and much more.
"Everyone said we should just expand to a restaurant," Gino said.
In 1987 he did just that, selling his interest in the wholesale company and expanding the number of tables at his deli from six to 12.
When the current location at Tropicana Avenue became available in 1992 -- "it used to be a fast-food restaurant," Gino said -- Ferraro's found its current home.
Child's play
Mimmo's earliest memories are of his family's establishments. His upbringing, and his education, were directly linked to the family's work.
"The whole family was involved," said Mimmo, 25, referring to sisters Gina and Teresa, his grandmother and parents.
Mimmo vividly remembers getting out of school and going directly to the deli. "I priced things on the shelves and helped the baker make cookies, but there was also a lot of running around. Lots of mischief."
Mimmo also said he remembers "helping out" at the wholesale company in 1983 -- when he was 5.
Upon hearing that, Gino came over and put his hand on his son's shoulder.
Raising his eyebrows, Gino said light-heartedly, "In '83 you were 'helping'?"
Mimmo just shrugged.
His true passion, cooking, came directly from his father.
"He is really open-minded about trying new things," Mimmo said. "We always had good meals on the table, eating both at the restaurant and at home."
Mimmo had been cooking since he was 10 and decided at an early age that he wanted to be a chef. But like any other successful businessman, he worked hard to fulfill his ambition.
His first time working in the kitchen came when the restaurant moved to its current location. At 13, Mimmo found himself in the "gardemanger" or cold kitchen, helping prepare salads, desserts and appetizers.
"I did that for three years," he said. "From there, I went to the front of the house, busing tables. I did that two years."
New ventures
Business was brisk enough that the family decided to expand operations. In 1996 another Ferraro's opened in the Stratosphere. At age 18, Mimmo was moved there as assistant manager.
"I was in charge of hiring, firing and training the kitchen," he remembers.
Unfortunately the restaurant didn't get the clientele the family was hoping for. It stayed open for three years and business slightly improved, but not to the family's satisfaction.
While working there, Mimmo also took restaurant management courses at the University of Nevada, Las Vegas from 1997-'99. He didn't graduate, but, Gino stressed, "He's going back. We're going to make him."
Determined to further their business, the family opened another restaurant near the intersection of Sunset Road and Green Valley Parkway in Henderson in 1999.
Mimmo, now 20, was again transferred to the new restaurant, this time as manager.
Shortly after Mimmo was transferred, the Stratosphere restaurant was closed. He remained at the Green Valley location for three years.
"We always had good clientele, just not enough," he said.
Despite the business skills he was acquiring, Mimmo wanted to get serious about his true passion -- cooking. He enrolled in the California Culinary Academy in 2002 "to learn as much as I could about the basics. I definitely had cooking skills already, but I didn't know everything."
When Mimmo returned to Nevada last year, the original restaurant -- the one in Henderson had since been closed -- became his. Refusing to take anything for granted, Mimmo then took off to Italy for five months to study with a variety of chefs.
In addition, Mimmo completed his introductory course in the Court of Master Sommeliers, with the goal of becoming a master sommelier.
"I feel now that when I make a dish, it's good," Mimmo said.
Keeping active
Although Gino now has the opportunity to retire and relax, that's not going to happen.
In addition to handling public relations for the business, Gino has made it his priority to expand the restaurant's wine list.
A wine cellar, containing more than 500 varieties of wine, is the result of his efforts.
"I think we have the most exciting wine list in Las Vegas," Gino said, adding 70 percent of the wines are Italian, with California, Australian and French wines comprising the majority of the remainder.
And just like his son, Gino is never satisfied. He, too, takes trips to Italy to expand his knowledge and changes the menu every six months.
"We believe we have an authentic Italian restaurant," he said. "And we take pride that we're a family restaurant. To have people around you that you know, it gives you added incentive to do better."
Gino is quick to say he wouldn't be involved in the business if he didn't think his customers were satisfied.
"The rewards of pleasing people make this worth it," he said. "Nine out of 10 people thank me for a great dinner."
And no future restaurants are planned.
"We believe to stay focused in one area, the rewards are better," Gino said. "And with the owner at the door, the son cooking in the kitchen, this is it. I don't want to do anything else."
Next generation
Mimmo eventually plans a family of his own, but with 14 to 15 hours spent at the restaurant every day, "I'm married to this place."
While he followed in his father's footsteps, he wouldn't necessarily want that for his children.
"If they had an interest, I would not stray them away, but you can't make someone love this business," Mimmo said. "You do or you don't. My parents made it fun for me. They never pressured me to do anything."
The fact most of his family still works at the restaurant -- his younger sister, Gina, 19, is his hostess, and his grandmother, Teresa, 81, still "comes and puts her foot down" -- makes his life much easier.
Mimmo has Chef Hercules Mantel and three sous chefs to help him with heavy workloads, but he's still appreciative to have his father around.
"We make a really good team. He sees what I don't see," Mimmo said. "We've had our hard times, but we mostly see eye to eye. "Having my family here, and being in the kitchen putting out good food makes this incredible."
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