Columnist Muriel Stevens: Bagelmania gives off a warm impression

Friday, Dec. 3, 2004 | 8:44 a.m.

On any given morning at Bagelmania Bagel Factory & Restaurant you can find terrific bagels and the history of Las Vegas. This is where the Old Timers gather, not only for a bagel and a schmear, but for the camaraderie that comes from being with longtime friends.

They sit at a long table that almost blocks the pickup counter. I've never heard anyone complain (including me) that maybe they should move over a little.

If you've lived in Las Vegas a long time the names will be familiar, but this group likes its privacy. Included are former hotel bigwigs, sports guys, businessmen and politicos. Most are retired. A few still keep their hand in and serve on many boards. They contribute wisdom about the gaming industry that few possess.

As the days grow shorter, owner Harrie shortens the hours. After dark the neighborhood at Twain Avenue and Swenson Street is iffy. Winter hours are from 6:30 a.m. to midafternoon. Delivery hours are from 8 a.m. to 2 p.m. Harrie's son Michael, who opens the store, does everything from taking phone orders to waiting tables when the need arises.

Bagelmania's food is just what deli food should be. A showcase is filled with homemade deli salads, including a whitefish salad that's addictive. It's piled high on a bagel and could easily make a second bagel sandwich.

On Saturdays the atmosphere changes. Tourists and locals make their way to Bagelmania for breakfasts so large there's enough for two meals. They'll never win a prize for the omelets -- they're brown, not sunny yellow, and piled high with whatever you've chosen -- yet I order one most times when I go to Bagelmania. One omelet could sustain a person all day.

The bagels are always crusty and fresh from the oven. Since they're handmade and not stamped out, they're not always beauties. But they're always delicious.

Potato pancakes are crisp, large and fried in plenty of oil. Have some for breakfast during the eight days of Hanukkah. Almost everything on the menu can be ordered for takeout. The delivery menu is limited.

Bagelmania's surroundings are modest and clean. Cash only, no credit cards. But if you came to Las Vegas from a big city you'll appreciate the spirit of Bagelmania.

Sometimes I forego the fried potatoes that accompany the omelets (ask to have them really crispy) and order instead sliced tomatoes. I regret that decision all day.

It's not a Philadelphia deli, but I appreciate it just the same.

Hanukkah gift for oenophiles: Tuesday is the first night of the eight-day celebration known as Hanukkah. You don't have to be Jewish to enjoy the potato latkes (pancakes) that are a traditional part of a Hanukkah meal, nor do you have to be Jewish to appreciate "Rogov's Guide to Israeli Wines" by Daniel Rogov, an influential and preeminent wine critic.

Rogov covers kosher and nonkosher wines in this small volume published by Toby Press ($14.95). It is "the first and only comprehensive guide to the growing phenomenon of Israeli wines." It should be in bookstores now, or at www.toby@tobypress.com.

AAA Four-Diamond Awards: For the 28th consecutive year the Golden Nugget has received the AAA Four-Diamond rating, having been honored on the 2005 list.

Golden Nugget's annual run started in 1977, making it the longest streak of recognition in the state of Nevada. That's quite a streak.

Short orders

Market City Caffe at the Monte Carlo: Market City Caffe, an Italian eatery, is featuring special holiday dinner items and drinks now through Christmas.

Prices for antipasti, entrees, pastas, seafood specialties and more are priced from $6.95. Desserts include a fig and pumpkin tiramisu made with spiced pumpkin and mascarpone, dried figs and candied gingersnaps soaked in espresso, Jack Daniels and molasses. Heady stuff! Fancy libations bear such names as Jack Frost coffee, holiday magic cappuccino, mistletoe margarita, Christmas colada and more.

City Caffe is a winner of the Wine Spectator Award of Excellence, and is known for its generous portions and fair prices. Dine at this pleasing trattoria 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. Sunday through Thursday; 11 a.m. to midnight Friday and Saturday. For reservations call 730-7966.

Candy cane ice cream cakes: Cold Stone Creamery is featuring candy cane ice cream cakes through Dec. 31. Composed of layers of moist cake and freshly made candy cane ice cream wrapped in what the company describes as "fluffy white frosting or rich fudge ganache," these seasonal specialties can be customized by anyone who wants to create their own cake and ice cream combination.

Call any Cold Stone Creamery location for prices and more information.

Former Las Vegan writes lifestyle cookbook: Helen Taylor Smith, formerly known in Las Vegas as Helen Estrada, produced and hosted a live cooking and interview show in Las Vegas in the '70s. She turned to writing in her later years when her health started to fail. It's too bad the story of her quest for better health and the 20 years it took to write "Cooking Healthier With the Healthy Cook" are not included in her book, but you can meet Helen and ask questions when she does a book signing at Border Books at 1445 W. Sunset Road between 1 p.m. and 3 p.m. on Sunday.

Free tasting samples will be offered. "Cooking Healthier" is priced at $17.95.

Kid stuff at The District: Holiday events continue at The District at Green Valley Ranch. In addition to the Lamplight Carolers, costumed street vendors selling hot apple cider, roasted nuts and caramel corn, there will be gingerbread house decorating from noon to 3 p.m. Saturday and two kids' cookie-decorating sessions; 5 p.m. to 7 p.m. Thursday and 2 p.m. to 5 p.m. Dec. 18.

Steiner's Pub opens: Steiner's, a Nevada-style pub, has opened its third location at 8168 Las Blvd. South (near its intersection with Windmill Lane). The new tavern features all of the signature dishes and the extensive menu found at the other locations. A display of Nevada memorabilia from the Nevada Historical Society adorns the walls. Included are many vintage photos, stock certificates and newspaper clippings. Steiner's offers breakfast, lunch and dinner.

New Hours at SEABLUE: Beginning Dec. 10, SEABLUE at MGM Grand will open for dinner at 5 p.m. Friday through Tuesday. The new dinner hours will accommodate guests who wish to dine prior to seeing the early performance of Cirque de Soleil's newest production, "Ka." On Wednesday and Thursday, the show's dark days, SEABLUE will open for dinner at 5:30 p.m.