Columnist Muriel Stevens: Too many chefs make for a great summit

Friday, Aug. 27, 2004 | 8:38 a.m.

Summoning all of the executive chefs from the Charlie Palmer Group restaurants to a Las Vegas summit meeting was a bold idea, but it worked. With so many restaurants in different cities, this would be an opportunity for the chefs to get to know each other (some had never met) and to join in discussions about building a successful media relations program and other subjects pertinent to Charlie Palmer restaurants. All of the chefs came to the three-day August summit.

Attending were Charlie Palmer Group Corporate Chef Tony Aiazzi, Bryan Voltaggio (Charlie Palmer Steak, Washington, D.C.); from New York, John Miele and Dante Boccuzzi (Aureole), Michael Lockard (Metrazur), Michael Altman (Astra), Scott Romano (Kitchen 22 and 82); and Mateo Granados (DC Kitchen) and Chris Ennis (Astra West).

Charlie Palmer Group Las Vegas chefs included Philippe Rispoli (Aureole), Megan Romano (Aureole), Steve Blandino (Charlie Palmer Steak at Four Seasons), Dan Shannon (Stirling Club) and Cindy Kruse (Stirling Club).

Chef Charlie welcomed everyone at the opening session; the next day he spoke about food. Aureole Wine Director Andrew Bradbury discussed pairing wines with food. Corporate Business Manager Richard Femenella wrapped up the summit on closing day. It was a terrific idea.

Expect to see more of Charlie at his Las Vegas restaurants now that he's moved his family to Sonoma, Calif. As he said, "In just an hour or so, I can be in Las Vegas."

Andre Rochat opens Mistral at Las Vegas Hilton: Mistral (formerly Le Montrachet), Andre Rochat's beautiful new French restaurant at the Las Vegas Hilton, was a day away from opening officially when I dined there, yet the restaurant was filled with diners. How come? The menu was posted and the door was open. Invitation enough for those seeking a fine meal in gracious surroundings.

We watched as Master Sommelier Steven Geddes, who is the wine director for Andre's restaurant group, surveyed the wines. Chef Andre and his Corporate Chef/Partner Jacques Van Staden were happy to have Mark Purdy as executive chef. The talented Purdy worked at Charlie Palmer's Aureole in New York and most recently at Palmer's Dry Creek Kitchen restaurant in Healdsburg, Calif., in the heart of Sonoma wine country.

Le Montrachet closed some years ago. In its heyday it was glorious. Chef Andre and his creative business partner, Mary Jane Jarvis, have taken full advantage of the architectural and design elements, making only slight changes. The new lighting and decor are marvelous, and so are the original design table appointments.

Mistral's menu includes seasonal specials that change daily, multicourse tasting menus and a la carte selections. Our dinner included an awesome seafood plateau that included jumbo tiger shrimp, spiny rock lobster halves, huge Dungeness crab claws, oysters, meaty king crab claws and two sauces.

After such an abundance of seafood we ordered lightly -- Escargots de Bourgogne for one guest, five onion soup au gratin for another. I shared a Dover sole, someone had the smoked salmon roulade -- we were sated and happy. We would forego dessert. "Not a chance," said the chefs. A wave of desserts ranged from a decadent chocolate souffle to a creme brulee topped with a spear of fresh fruit and many more, covering the table. We moaned and groaned as we shared each delectable tempter, passing them around until little was left. Healthful? No. Pleasurable? Oh, yes.

Mistral offers dinner nightly, 5:30 to 10:30 p.m. For reservations call 792-6373.

Todd English's Olives reopens: At 7 a.m. on a day when I was departing for vacation, I met with Todd English for a preview of the refurbished Olives. We'd met years ago when I traveled to Boston to dine at the first Olives in Charleston, a small town near Boston. Olives was a small restaurant that didn't accept reservations. It was furnished with mismatched tables and chairs (it still is), yet it exuded charm and hospitality. The entrepreneurial chef also owned a few pizza eateries in Boston named Figs.

Today there are 17 Todd English restaurants, one as far away as Tokyo, and there are more to come.

The chef is crazy about the updated Todd English's Olives in the shopping promenade at Bellagio. It is beautiful. Still relaxed and inviting, designer Jeffrey Beers has maintained the casual atmosphere, yet he's given Olives a touch of sophistication. Warm olive, gold and pumpkin fabrics cover the booths and chairs. The bar has been expanded and seats 20.

Tables on the much-in-demand patio may now be reserved. Do this far in advance. The patio could not be expanded, it's still small. With the new wide glass windows and doors (the ironwork is wonderful), the lake view is spectacular. Olives' menu is slightly larger; all of the favorites, including the crispy flatbread pizzas, are in place. Chef Steve Mannino, who opened Olives at Bellagio, has returned to Las Vegas and will continue to assist English in developing "innovative menu ideas."

Todd English's Olives is open daily for lunch (11 a.m. to 3 p.m.) and dinner (5 to 10:30 p.m.). Bar hours are 5 to 10:30 p.m.

For reservations call 693-7111.

Mark Reed returns to the Aladdin: Welcome home to new Aladdin Chef Mark Reed, who has been appointed chef de cuisine for Aladdin's gourmet rooms, Tremezzo Ristorante and Elements Fresh Seafood & Prime Steaks.

Chef Mark was most recently Executive Chef at Cafe Milano in Washington, D.C. Before leaving Las Vegas he was Executive Chef at the Stirling Club. The young chef was also Executive Sous Chef at the Aladdin's London Club restaurant, St. James.

A native Las Vegan, Chef Mark grew up in the restaurant industry with parents who are both top-notch food and beverage executives.

The young chef's culinary skills should bring new luster to Tremezzo and Elements.

Short orders

City of Hope's Spirit of Life honors Bill Paulos: William J. Paulos, principal of the Cannery Resorts & Casino and co-founder of the Millennium Management Group, will be honored by The Foodservice and Hospitality Industry Alliance for City of Hope at the Spirit of Life dinner at the J.W. Marriott Hotel and Rampart Casino on Saturday.

Paulos will receive the Spirit of Life Award for his outstanding philanthropic contributions. The theme will be "An Evening in Central Park." Local celebrity chefs include Michael Jordan, Gustav Mauler, Luciano Pellegrini and Peter Sherlock. Local food distributors U.S. Food Service and SYSCO have donated all of the food. Wines for this special event are from Southern Wine & Spirits.

For more information call (800) 260-HOPE or visit www.cityofhope.org.

World's largest bottle of wine celebrates Morton's: Morton's The Steakhouse at Flamingo and Paradise roads is part of the tour presenting the world's largest bottle of wine. Morton's commissioned the humongous bottle in celebration of its 25th anniversary. The bottle was certified by the Guinness Book of World Records and holds the equivalent of 1,200 glasses of wine. The bottle is filled with Beringer Vineyards' 2001 Private Reserve Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon.

Morton's will honor its anniversary by offering the bottle for auction at Sotheby's New York, following the national tour. All of the proceeds will go to Share Our Strength (SOS), a nonprofit hunger-feeding program.

The spectacular bottle will arrive at the Las Vegas Morton's on Aug. 30. For more information call Morton's at 893-0703.