Columnist Muriel Stevens: New restaurants at MGM cure curiosity

Friday, Aug. 6, 2004 | 8:53 a.m.

And the walls came tumbling down ...

For some months I'd been watching the latest restaurant renaissance unfold at MGM Grand's Studio Walk. New concept restaurants with dazzling food and extraordinary designs were being built. Painted construction walls with only the name of the property titillated the imagination.

Already in place on Studio Walk are Michael Mina's SEABLUE seafood restaurant, Tom Colicchio's Craftsteak and Steve Hanson's Fiamma. And nearby, Mina's San Francisco-themed gem, NOBHILL.

Wolfgang Puck's Cafe made way for Wolfgang Puck Bar & Grill. This hip, casual eatery opened to rave reviews. Also open is Colicchio's 'wichcraft, a terrific sandwich shop. Emeril Lagasse's New Orleans Fish House has undergone a complete redo and is scheduled to open shortly.

Shibuya pure bliss: It was pure serendipity that I returned to Las Vegas from a beach vacation in time to attend a private dinner at Shibuya Japanese restaurant. It was an extraordinary experience.

The evening began with cocktails at Teatro, which is "theater" in Italian. Teatro is at once alluring, sophisticated and mellow. Drinks are concocted tableside in full view of guests. A liquor-based amuse bouche served on a porcelain spoon is presented by the server after guests order.

The chic attire worn by the servers was created by noted California fashion designer Tadashi Shoji. Internationally acclaimed designer Adam Tihany conceived the striking interiors.

A few steps from Teatro is Shibuya Japanese restaurant. Designed by Yabu Pushelberg, Shibuya takes its name from an upscale Tokyo neighborhood known for its lively urban setting and modern freshness. Shibuya's extensive menu encompasses three dining experiences -- sushi, teppan and a la carte specialities. Each is served in its own separate dining space that adjoins the next.

The room we dined in was exceptional. Dramatic open-wood screening afforded each table privacy, yet kept us in touch. Table appointments and service pieces capture the spirit of Japanese cuisine, both ancient and modern. Our dinner included a tasting of singular sakes presented by renowned sake expert John Gauntner.

Gauntner, who lives in Japan, is the only American recognized by the Japanese government as a "verified sake authority."

Shibuya sake sommelier Eric Swanson was guided through the complex world of sake by Gauntner. Swanson said he was "thrilled" to have this sake legend on his team. So were we. The tasting and the discourse were superb.

Executive Chef Eiji Takase designed our seven-course dinner. The sakes were chosen by Gauntner. These fine, rare sakes are available only at Shibuya.

Most of the dishes we enjoyed are on the a la carte menu.

Our tasting included toro (big eye tuna) tartar topped with beluga caviar and edible gold leaf and a drizzle of anchiote oil. Sipped with the mildly spicy tartar was Daishichi "Big Seven" Junmai Daiginjo Minowamon "Wheel of Fortune." Without tasting any other sake, this instantly became my favorite.

Thin slices of kampachi (baby yellowtail tuna) were marinated with fresh yuzu (citrus juice) and black truffle oil. The fragrant combination was as heady as the Kakunka "Fragrant Beam" Junmai Daiginjo sake that was paired with it.

Two plump Kumamoto oysters perched atop a mountain of crushed ice were perfect. The crisp briny flavor of the oyster was enhanced with green apple ponzu. With the oysters, Umenishiki "Wise Plum" Junmai Daiginjo. With each course sake expert Gauntner captured our interest as he shared the story of these fine sakes.

After three courses we were beginning to understand how much there was to learn about sake and the infinite differences.

A crispy soft shell crab with shichimi (Japanese onion) butter was a savory delight. The sweetness of the crab was highlighted by the slightly spicy butter. By this time we were comparing flavors and daring to rate the sake as if we knew sake. Only the experts had ever before imbibed such fine sakes. Rihaku "Wandering Poet" Junmai Ginjo sake was an ideal companion for the barely sweet sake.

Miso wild salmon garnished with crisp ginger and pickled radish was followed by Kiyokushin chicken slices atop ginger yam puree and mild teriyaki sauce. We quickly learned that the sake with the salmon, Kamoizumi "Summer Snow" Nigori "Cloudy" was an affordable sake that our experts had included to see just how expert we had become, but we were already spoiled by the previous sakes and could almost tell the difference. With the chicken was Nishi No Seki "Western Gate" Junmai.

Succulent, sweet lobster and scallop with uni (sea urchin) butter, organic carrots and edamame was irresistible. And so was the Dassai Junmai Daiginjo. We had been challenged to name the two most expensive sakes. The first and last sake were the most extravagant.

Chef Takase chose a perfect dessert, a sorbet float drenched with sparkling sake, another new taste. Layered in a tall, footed glass were small scoops of house-made exotic fruit sorbets. It was a refreshing and delicious finish to our Shibuya dining and sake experience, yet we had barely scratched the surface of the premium sake selection.

More Shibuya: Gamal Aziz, president and chief operating officer of MGM Grand, has assembled an awesome team, with VP of Food and Beverage Stephen Judge and Executive Director of Food and Beverage Tony Angotti leading the way. Both share Aziz' ardor for developing restaurants that are cutting edge and appealing to locals and visitors.

"Shibuya is poised to be the most dynamic Japanese restaurant on the Strip," said Aziz. "With Chef Takase's classic training and passion for creative presentation and John Gauntner's brilliance with sake, Shibuya will most certainly shine."

Shibuya's sushi bar ($4-$19) seats 15; the teppan room ($38-$65) seats 30; the main dining room is a la carte ($6.50-$22) and seats 150.

Shibuya's general manager is Alex Jureeatana.

Dine at Shibuya from Sunday through Thursday, 5:30 to 10:30 p.m.; Friday and Saturday, 5:30 to 11 p.m. For reservations, call 891-3001.

Short orders

Crustacean extends summer special: Crustacean Las Vegas inside Desert Passage Mall at the Aladdin has extended its Locals Summer Special through Aug. 31. Experience an An family dinner for $45. An family matriarch and Crustacean Executive Chef Helene An is saying "thank you" to local regulars and "welcome" to newcomers. Dinner includes a choice of one of the signature tapas, a choice of soup or salad and an entree. Crustacean Las Vegas is offering local dinner guests 50 percent off on a bottle of wine. The summer tasting menu is available Sunday through Thursday. For reservations, call 650-0507.

Nathan Adelson Hospice wine and food event: On Sept. 30 Nathan Adelson Hospice will hold its 5th Annual Wine and Food Extravaganza at Gaudin Jaguar/ Porsche/Aston Martin at 7200 W. Sahara Ave. What's more fun than fancy cars and good food and wine? Tickets are $40 and can be purchased at the door. Participating restaurants are: Rosemary's Restaurant, Harley Davidson Cafe, Sammy's Woodfired Pizza, the Carmel Room at the Rampart Casino, Benedict's Bistro and Panera Bread. For more information, call Laura Coleman, 349-3948.

Wolfgang Puck's Chinois: The newly remodeled Chinois inside the Forum Shops at Caesars Palace is offering Happy Hours from 3 to 5 p.m. Sunday through Friday. Featured are half-price appetizers and reduced-price drinks, including those with alcohol. Call 737-9700 for more info.