Columnist Muriel Stevens: Vegas gets Eastern flair delivered in eatery

Friday, April 30, 2004 | 8:26 a.m.

These are perilous times for small independent restaurants, yet Las Vegas has a number that not only survive but thrive.

I've been dining at Tokyo Japanese restaurant in Commercial Center at 953 E. Sahara Ave. for many years. The food is consistently good and the prices remain affordable. Through the years few changes in decor have been made. Not too long ago the covers on the pillows that soften the seating in the booths were changed. They're brighter and maybe a wee bit plumper.

Of course, it's not the decor that keeps me returning to Tokyo. Japanese food is one of my preferred cuisines, and I love the simplicity of Tokyo's food, the gentle, caring staff and the friendly owners. Tokuzo Nagata oversees the kitchen; his wife, Hisako, works the front of the house. Kimono and obi clad, Hisako shines.

Tokyo's menu is designed for its clientele. Dishes are described in a mix of English and Japanese. Some are easily understood; some have to be interpreted by the server, who may or may not speak English, but who will get someone who does.

Sometimes I order a few sushi from the sushi bar (prices vary) and appetizers ($2.50-$12). Mostly I order one of Tokyo's special dinners ($11.75-$15.50). Included are miso soup, oshitashi (marinated greens), sunomono (cucumber salad), rice, dessert and green tea. Entree choices include yosenabe, a delicate stew of seafood, chicken, tofu and vegetables that comes with a piquant dipping sauce.

This satisfying dish and the sukiyaki (pronounced skiyaki) and salmon teriyaki (with the sauce on the side) are so good. I first ate yosenabe in Hawaii. As far as I know, Tokyo is the only local Japanese restaurant to offer it.

Combination dinners ($13.50-$15.50) include the soup, salads, rice, dessert, green tea and Japanese pickles. Light, crisp tempura or sashimi or other specialities are paired with teriyaki and more. Tokyo's deluxe dinner ($20.50) arrives in a gorgeous compartmented, lacquered box. Included are beef and chicken, tempura, sashimi, sushi, a broiled fish appetizer and all of the side dishes that come with entrees. I've only ordered it once. It was excellent, but too much food for me.

At some of the booths the food can be cooked right at the table. Offered are yakiniku (Japanese-style barbecue beef), sukiyaki, shabu shabu and yosenabe ($16-$23.50). Tokyo also features donburi and noodle dishes. Donburi bowls include rice; Noodle bowls include hearty Udon noodles ($6.50-$15).

A small beverage list includes sake, Japanese beer, domestic beer, plum wine, whiskey, brandy, cocktails and soft drinks.

Make reservations. There are many times a reservation is not needed, but Tokyo does a thriving tourist business that can buy out the house. For reservations call 735-7070.

New chef and new menu at Star Trek: The Star Trek: The Experience at the Las Vegas Hilton has as its motto, "To boldly go where no one has gone before," and that's just what Quark's Bar and Restaurant Executive Chef James Kellenberger is doing. Chef James has redesigned more than 75 percent of the menu. Quark's is located inside Star Trek: The Experience and is like no other eatery. Dine amidst a huge star field, with life-size spacecraft hovering over.

Galactic-themed entrees, desserts and drinks are part of the experience. Among the highlights of the new menu are: SmorgasBorg, a three-tiered platter with empanadas, Saucer Section and assorted fried Pipius Claw (a Klingon dish known to humans as boneless chicken wings), Captain Sulu Toss, Palamarian blackened salmon, Pasta al Fiorello and OOX-Mox -- the Ferengi word for sex, translates to "an intimate chocolate fondue for two served with whipped cream, strawberries and warm melted chocolate. And let's not forget The Flaming Ribs of Targ, flamed tableside, and the good old reliable hamBORGer. Thanks Captain Chef. Such imagination is appreciated by earthlings.

Quark's is open daily from 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. Reservations are available for groups of 6 or more. For more information call 697-8750 or visit the Web site -- www.startrekexp.com.

Another galaxy of stars at Alzheimer dinner: Super chefs Alain Ducasse, Paul Bocuse, Thomas Keller, Charlie Palmer, David Robins, Alessandra Stratta and Charlie Trotter will perform culinary magic when they appear at the Alzheimer fund-raiser May 15 at The Mirage. Many surprises and awesome auction items.

Short orders

Deli open for business: Canter's Deli at Treasure Island is up and running. Located nearby the race book, Canter's is open 24/7.

Zelzah Shrine's annual Vidalia onion sale: Zelzah Shrine's Vidalia onion sale has begun. Shriner Swannie Swenson said 40,000 pounds of the sweet Vidalia, Ga., onions will be shared by the Zelzah and Pahrump Shriners. Ten-pound bags are $10; a half bag is $6. All proceeds go to "Help a Shriner Help a Child." Properly stored, these no-tears onions can last for months.

My favorite method is to wrap each onion in a square of heavy-duty aluminum foil. Completely encase the onion and store in the refrigerator vegetable bin (low humidity setting). Sauteed Vidalias (let cool) can keep in the freezer as long as a year. Onions are available at the Zelzah Shrine Center at 2222 W. Mesquite Ave., or may be ordered by phone. Call 382-5554.

Jersey Mike's Authentic Subs grand opening: Jersey Mike's franchise holder, Dan Kempf (this location, only) has big plans for the grand opening of his eatery from noon to 3 p.m. Saturday. Jersey Mike's is located at Tropicana and Eastern avenues in the space previously occupied by Jitters. This longtime East Coast chain offers a variety of cold subs in three sizes; hot subs, including a Philly cheese steak in two sizes; signature wraps; and soups and salads. Entertainment, a sub-eating contest with 10 UNLV frat guys -- they'll stuff a 14-inch #13, Jersey Mike's Original, into their maws in a specified time. The Original includes cheese, ham, prosciutto, capocollo, salami and pepperoni. Jersey Mike's hours: 10 a.m. to 9 p.m. Sunday to Thursday; 10 a.m. to 10 p.m. Friday and Saturday. Call 258-5656 for more info.

KFC hires "The Apprentice" contestant: According to Nation's Restaurant News, KFC Corp. wants to hire Kwame Jackson, the last "Apprentice" fired, for a weeklong gig as chief sales officer. A $25,000 salary and a year's supply of KFC products sweetened the offer. Should Jackson accept the offer, he will have one week to develop a sales strategy for KFC's new Oven Roasted chicken line.