Columnist Muriel Stevens: Marketplace: Something for everyone

Wednesday, Sept. 17, 2003 | 8:15 a.m.

There is something almost surreal about shopping at the International Marketplace at 5000 S. Decatur Blvd. near Tropicana Avenue. I discovered this singular supermarket a short time after it opened in 1999.

Today, shelves filled with thousands of food items stand side-by-side with Asian objects of art, furniture, decorative pieces and other merchandise one would not expect to find in a supermarket.

Except for the checkout area, there is little space to maneuver a cart through the aisles -- but don't give up. International Marketplace starts to make sense as you wind your way through the maze of products, all reasonably priced.

If there were a shrine to snack foods, domestic and international, it would look like International Marketplace. The cart of one couple overflowed with snacks. They stock up, they told me, at least once a month for their office and home. Racks in various parts of the store are jampacked with cookies, cakes, candies, chips and other savory tidbits.

Unlike some ethnic stores, all the food here is labeled in English and includes FDA-approved nutritional information.

One stand had an abundance of the "good luck" bamboo plants so popular these days. They're easy to care for, requiring only a bowl of water for the roots and some river pebbles to hold them upright. An intricate tiered plant was $6.99; others were priced as low as $1.99.

Attractive Asian tableware items -- dishes, serving pieces, mats and more -- are priced starting at $1.99 per piece. One aisle is devoted to woks in a variety of metals (the ones made of carbon steel are still my favorite). Wok lids, stands and draining racks are terrific. Another aisle offers cookware, an amazing array of cooking utensils, strainers, rice cookers and tiered steamers in a variety of sizes. It's a bazaar of foreign foods and treasures without the hassle of traveling to exotic places.

Foods from America, the Middle East, Italy, France, Spain, Asia, Portugal, Great Britain, Australia and New Zealand are found here. I bought a jar of cockles, a tiny, brine-flavored mollusk that I last enjoyed during a trip to Wales. I'll recapture the memory of a small coastal eatery with a view of the sea -- where I nibbled toast covered with cheesy Welsh rabbit (rarebit) topped with cockles -- when I make my own version. Never before have I seen a jar of cockles in a food shop.

There is no end to the goodies found at this unique emporium. Only the fresh fish counter disappoints. There is a good selection of fresh fish, yet it's barely visible through the cloudy showcase windows. Freezer cases are filled with ready-to-eat food that requires little preparation. The selection of international sauces and condiments is overwhelming. International Marketplace is much too large to absorb during one visit.

There is no rhyme or reason for the placement of the various food sections. Foods of the same category, such as olive oil or canned fish, can be found in more than one section. Asian foods are everywhere. Persevere. Eventually you will find what you are looking for. If not, the courteous checkout staff can answer questions. A membership card is a modest $10. Nonmembers pay a 5 percent surcharge. A card is the better deal.