Columnist Muriel Stevens: Annual truffle auction no trifle for charities

Friday, Nov. 14, 2003 | 8:29 a.m.

White truffles are a symbol of affluence, but on Oct. 26, they symbolized the uniting of a community to help those in need.

White truffle aficionados gathered at Piero Selvaggio's Valentino restaurant at The Venetian for the fifth annual white truffle auction -- the first held in Las Vegas -- to bid on the first white truffles of the season and raise money for charity at the same time.

The event, hosted by Selvaggio, Wolfgang Puck and Alessandro Stratta of Renoir at The Mirage, had a global feel, with a closed-circuit satellite connection uniting Castello Grinzane in Alba, Italy, Daniel Bouloud's Cafe Bouloud in New York and Valentino.

Truffles to be bid on were displayed at each location. Participants could bid on any of the lot. Of course, each city wanted to have winning bidders so their charities would benefit.

Bidding was at first a little slow. But as the amounts for the precious fungi grew, so did the excitement. In the end it was Selvaggio who bought the largest truffle, paying $30,000. Puck, who was at the Castle in Alba, bought the second-largest truffle for $26,000.

To ensure the money would benefit the Las Vegas charities, a Puck clone from Madame Tussauds Interactive Wax Attraction at The Venetian was used as a stand-in. Money raised from the event benefits Keep Memory Alive and The Dr. Miriam & Sheldon G. Adelson Clinic For Drug Abuse Treatment & Research.

Large TV monitors gave a full, if fuzzy, view of the action. Robin Leach, who generously contributes his time to many community events, emceed the auction.

Only in Las Vegas were the truffles on display adorned with lavish diamond jewelry (not edible, but gorgeous) from Venezia Jewelers at The Venetian. And only in Las Vegas were there scantily clad showgirls, courtesy of The Rio.

This was not a good year for white truffles. A lack of rain limited the harvest and there weren't as many large truffles, yet the money raised was a boost for the charities.

A splendid truffle lunch: Admission to the auction was by invitation only, but the the truffle luncheon that followed was open to the public.

In the kitchen were Luciano Pellegrini, chef/partner of Valentino Las Vegas and the new Caffe Giorgio at Mandalay Bay Place, David Robins, corporate chef/partner for Wolfgang Puck, and Stratta.

Robins presented a tasty veal carpaccio with Gorgonzola and pears; Stratta's truffled risotto was memorable; Pellegrini's medallion of buffalo was lusty and lean -- on the side was a Napoleon of potatoes and a tasting of artisanal cheeses. A dessert of Grand Marnier mousse garnished with thin slices of candied Roma tomatoes and candied chestnut was a delicious offering from Pellegrini's pastry chef, Alessandro Stoppa.

Eating a $30,000 truffle: Selvaggio is passionate about his family, friends, his restaurants and truffles. Four days after the truffle auction he hosted another event, a grand truffle dinner for friends and supporters who had contributed so generously to the success of the auction.

In recognition of their friendship and support, Selvaggio would give them the ultimate white truffle experience, shavings of the $30,000 truffle down to the last crumb. The four-course and dessert dinner presented by Pellegrini fulfilled the promise.

Seasonal, tender red king crab meat was a perfect foil for the white truffle. Meltingly tender homemade garganelli pasta was lavishly sauced with butter, Parmesan and white truffle. Additional shavings covered the top. Wagyu beef medallion, Australia's answer to Japan's Kobe beef, was remarkable. Fork tender, perfectly rosy in the center and lavished with white truffle, it was perfection.

A cheese sampler with truffles just about exhausted our $30,000 fungus. Dessert was a gianduja (hazelnut) mousse with candied chestnuts and walnut liqueur sauce. It was a splendid repast with many fine wines, good conversation and congenial companions.

At the end of the evening Selvaggio presented $10,000 checks to the two charities. Venetian President Rob Goldstein and his wife, Cheryl, accepted for The Dr. Miriam & Sheldon G. Adelson Clinic For Drug Abuse Treatment & Research; Spago General Manager/Partner Tom Kaplan accepted for Keep Memories Alive.

"We used truffles as the ultimate symbol of what brings us together," said Selvaggio. "We are not going to forget such an experience, yet our goal is to always help the less fortunate."

According to the philanthropic restaurateur, the truffle auction in Las Vegas will become an annual event as it is at Valentino in Santa Monica, Calif.

Caffe Giorgio at Mandalay Place: This has been a busy time for Selvaggio, yet he managed to open Caffe Giorgio at Mandalay Place a few weeks ago. Caffe Giorgio calls itself "A true taste of Italy," offering lunch and dinner in a casual setting as well as a more upscale dining room. There's a bar and cafe for light dining, a gelati and sorbetti counter and foods suitable for any meal of the day.

Delights include seafood, a variety of pizzas, cold cuts, grilled meats and vegetarian selections.

The night I was there for a small private party, walk-ins mingled with party guests and everyone had a good time. Caffe Giorgio is a very friendly place.

Short orders

Book signing at Spago: Spago Beverly Hills acclaimed Pastry Chef Sherry Yard will have a book signing at Spago at the Forum Shops at Caesars at 4 p.m. Nov. 21. Yard's new cookbook, "The Secrets of Baking" (Houghton Mifflin, $35.95), features "Simple Techniques for Sophisticated Desserts." Yard's style is down-to-earth and irresistible. The foreword by Jacques Pepin captures the essence of this awesome pastry chef.

Fashion Show Food Court: Already open at the new Fashion Show Food Court are Chinese Gourmet Express, Haagen-Dazs, New York Pretzel, Philadelphia Steak & Hoagie, Subway, Greek Island Cafe, Chicken Connection, Ichiban, Basin Street Cajun Cafe and Hot Dog On A Stick. Opening next week are Wendy's and Sbarro. Mongolian Barbecue opens in December. Located on the third level of the Fashion Show mall's east expansion, the food court can be accessed from Las Vegas Boulevard and from the second level of the Fashion Show mall.

Scheduled to open in December is Cento & Fanti's Gourmet Market & Cafe. Opening in 2004 is Lettuce Entertain You restaurant group's Cafe Ba Ba Reeba, The Capital Grille and Maggiano's. There's more to come as the Fashion Show heads toward completion.

Fondue in Summerlin: Fondue with a difference has come to Las Vegas. The Melting Pot, a chain of fondue restaurants, has opened its first Las Vegas venue in Boca Park in Summerlin. The wine list is much larger than the menu, and prices range from modest to pricey. I've been told that cheese fondue can be ordered for as little as $9 per person, but I couldn't find it on the menu.

Special occasion fondue meals? Seems there's a call for it. The chain is tres successful.

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