Friday, Nov. 7, 2003 | 8:29 a.m.
Pink Ginger and Ventuno, two new restaurants at the Flamingo, are part of a revitalization program that is winning new friends for the venerable resort, including me.
I was joining friends who regularly stay at the Flamingo ever since it opened. We always meet for dinner at the hotel when they come to town.
It was easier than I expected.
Pink Ginger is an appealing Asian eatery with a menu of dishes from Japan, Thailand, Korea and China.
Ventuno, adjacent to Pink Ginger, is an Italian restaurant with a dining room that offers classic and contemporary Italian foods and a casual cafe and bar that serves meals all day.
My plan was to have Asian appetizers at Pink Ginger and the entree and dessert at Ventuno. The restaurants had a better idea. My friends and I would dine in Pink Ginger's small, private dining room.
Pink Ginger's assistant chef, Phat Si Luong, would prepare the appetizers; Ventuno's assistant chef, Anthony Gonzales, would create the entree sampler. Dessert would be a joint effort. Tai-gen Chao, manager of Pink Ginger, would oversee our dinner with assistance from Dora Amoroso, assistant manager of Ventuno. Also on hand was Assistant Executive Chef Ryan Fahey.
Our menu was a tasting of signature dishes from both restaurants. Each course was artistically presented and was delicious. Ginger wonton were pinched to resemble petals of a flower. Inside the crisp case was a savory mix of lump crab, cream cheese and fresh ginger. It was the first time I could taste the crab in this tasty starter that is also known as crab Rangoon.
It is difficult to name a favorite when everything was so good, yet the Peking duck sliders were wonderful -- a pocket of steamed bun dough filled with shredded crisp roast duck, scallions and cilantro. The bun dough was smooth and thin and easy to pick up. What a tasty spin on the classic wrapper.
Seafood satay, long skewers of curried jumbo shrimp, grilled pineapple and scallops with a Thai pineapple sauce, was inserted into a whole pineapple that dominated the large serving platter. Dramatic and delicious. A splendid assortment of sushi and sashimi followed.
After a brief break we returned for our Italian tour, a sampling of three Ventuno originals, starting with fresh salmon medallions and jumbo shrimp sauteed with leeks, mushrooms, roasted peppers, artichokes, tomatoes, brandy and a light touch of cream tossed with fettucine.
The salmon and shrimp were hidden under the pasta; each bite uncovered another tender morsel. A small filet of beef was lightly breaded, grilled and highlighted with a squeeze of fresh lemon and lemon zest. The piece de resistance was a coil of homemade Italian sausage grilled with onions and pepper, perched atop a bed of soft polenta.
All of the dishes from Pink Ginger and Ventuno are on the menu and range in price from $5.50 for the wonton to $8.95 for the duck sliders. The beef filet and the Salmon Ventuno are each $23.95; the homemade sausage and polenta is $16.95. Portions are generous.
Throughout dinner we enjoyed the rare teas from Harney & Sons served at Pink Ginger. The tea program includes South African red teas, a delightful winter white Earl Grey and a jasmine fragrant with white jasmine flowers.
The desserts, which were a not-so-classic tiramisu, coconut creme brulee and meringata -- baked meringue layered with shaved chocolate and Italian cream cheese -- were delish.
The only thing missing at our dinner was the presence of Pink Ginger Chef Ray Kwong and Ventuno Chef Darci Irelan. Monday is their night off.
Dine nightly at Pink Ginger from 5 p.m. to 11 p.m.
Ventuno Ristorante offers dinner nightly, also from 5 p.m. to 11 p.m. Ventuno Cafe and Bar is open for breakfast, lunch, dinner and late-night snacks from 6 a.m. to 2 a.m. Prices are moderate.
Another fine Flamingo dining choice is Conrad's Steakhouse. Chef Jack Huxtable's specialties include lobster bisque, Conrad's signature chopped salad, Maine lobster and fish and a variety of steaks, chops and prime rib.
Conrad's Steakhouse offers dinner nightly, from 5 p.m. to 11 p.m. For reservations at all of the restaurants call 733-3111.
Still to come, Jimmy Buffet's Margaritaville, a hip restaurant and entertainment venue with a view of the Strip, scheduled to open in fall 2004.
More Flamingo: The improvements at the Flamingo are wonderful. Gone is the clutter in the public areas. Walkways offer a full view of where you're going.
There's still construction going on, but using Audrie Street off Flamingo Road, I had no trouble getting to valet. There is still a bottleneck at peak times, but it took just minutes to retrieve my car after dinner.
I was happy to see so many familiar faces among the restaurant staff after the closing of Alta Villa and Peking Market, which made way for Margaritaville. Pink Ginger Manager Tai-gen Chao, who was the manager at Peking Market, is a longtime friend. He assured me that just about everyone who wanted to was invited to return. It was the same at Ventuno. It's Old Las Vegas at its best. Currently in the works are 2,000 rooms being refurbished.
Tre a happening place: Contrary to rumor, Tre Italian restaurant in Boca Marketplace in Summerlin is not closed. Significant changes in decor and the menu have been completed. The menu is more family oriented with a price point to match.
In addition to a new look, the menu features such familiar family favorites as lasagna with Bolognese sauce and Mama Egi's famous ravioli filled with cheese, spinach, butter and sage. The tender ravioli are available for takeout as well. Pasta and Italian classic dishes are available in regular or half portions.
Tre's salads, appetizers and pastas can be ordered individually or family style for two or more diners. Grilled items are served with a choice of one side dish. A 16-ounce bone-in ribeye is $23.50, an 8-ounce filet mignon is $25.50 and so is a bone-in 16-ounce New York strip.
Among the desserts ($7) are cannoli, tiramisu served with a coffee-caramel sauce, a seasonal fruit crostata, cheesecake with berry wine sauce, chocolate torte and a selection of gelati and sorbetti that changes daily.
Lunch is offered Monday through Friday, 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m.; dinner nightly, 5:30 to 10:30.
Mama Egi will be at the restaurant for at least three weeks. Stop by and say hello to the charming matriarch of the Maccioni family. Egi and Sirio Maccioni are the founders of Le Cirque and Osteria del Circo restaurants in NYC and Las Vegas.
Mama Egi recently wrote the "Maccioni Family Cookbook" published by Stewart, Tabori & Chang ($32.50). It will soon appear in local bookstores and at Tre. A book signing at Tre is in the works.
For more information or reservations call 946-6200.
Short orders
Lunch at UNLV: "Pan Asian Invasion" is the theme of the Wednesday lunch at the Boyd dining room on the second floor of the Frank and Estella Beam Hall. Hotel school students do all of the planning and cooking, so it's always fun. Walk-ins only, so come early. Groups of 10 or more should call Chef Jean Hertzman for special arrangements -- 895-3866.
Lunch and dinner at Russell's Restaurant at CCSN: Russell's Restaurant at Community College of Southern Nevada is featuring various cuisines at lunch and dinner. Many of the students are already working in the food industry. Meal prices are modest, $5.95 to $6.95. Hours vary. Call 651-4701 for hours and reservations.
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