Columnist Muriel Stevens: Take a trip to Ogden to experience good food

Friday, March 21, 2003 | 8:25 a.m.

Muriel Stevens' dining column appears Fridays. Her shopping and travel columns appear Wednesday. Reach her at (702) 259-4080 or muriel@lasvegassun.com.

A few days before the opening of the Bradley Ogden restaurant at Caesars Palace, I previewed this latest venture by Bradley Ogden, who is one of the country's most acclaimed chefs and who has won many awards for his innovative American cuisine.

Ogden was raised in America's heartland. The same free-range chickens we exalt today were part of his Midwestern way of life. And so were the fresh-caught trout and hand-picked fruits and vegetables.

With little time left to prepare for the soft opening on Monday, Ogden and his staff were surrounded by picture-pretty produce. In the midst of all the preparation still to be done, Ogden and his cadre of young chefs were posing for photos. Tireless and smiling, they were a joy to watch.

Bradley Ogden is a beautifully designed contemporary restaurant. The furniture was still being arranged, but I couldn't resist trying a few of the appealing chairs. The bar and lounge area are eye-catching. Ogden's wife/partner Jody has a keen eye for color and design, evident throughout the restaurant.

The photo shoot completed, our party of five made its way to Terrazza, Caesars' Tuscan eatery. Bradley and Jody had had a long day and were looking forward to some good food and conversation. We had satisfying portions of both.

Our server suggested we order the frutti di mare freschi (fresh seafood on ice) and the Chef Alberto Tapia's hot seafood appetizer. What a terrific suggestion. The hot shrimp, scallops and lobster had been cooked with a scampi-style sauce made with lemon, garlic and white wine.

We also enjoyed an antipasto platter with a variety of Italian deli meats, Asiago cheese, roasted peppers and assorted olives, all arranged around roasted cherry tomatoes and marinated Italian beans. Such good stuff.

It was a surprise to learn that all five of us had ordered the same entree, Terazzo's pan-seared Dover sole in a light lemon butter sauce. This was the real thing; sweet filets of Dover sole, cooked just right. With the sole were slender, crisp French green beans and sauteed cherry tomatoes.

Bradley Ogden restaurant opened without any fanfare. The staff wanted to make certain that all the kinks were gone. They must have been; the restaurant and the groovy bar have been, as Ogden said, "slammed since we opened the doors."

For reservations, call 731-7110.

James Beard Awards: The dinner naming the winners of the James Beard Foundation Restaurant and Chef Awards won't take place until May, but similar to the Academy Awards, being named one of five finalists in any category is recognition of the highest level.

Las Vegas has only one finalist. Piero Selvaggio's Valentino at The Venetian Executive Chef Luciano Pellegrini is a finalist in the American Express Best Chef Southwest category.

Selvaggio's Valentino in Santa Monica, Calif., is in the running for S. Pellegrino Outstanding Restaurant. This award is for a restaurant that has been in operation "10 or more consecutive years and is a standard-bearer for excellence in food, atmosphere and service."

Tom Colicchio, who has Craftsteak at MGM Grand, is a finalist for his New York eatery, Gramercy Tavern. And Las Vegas newcomer Stephen Hanson, who will open Fiamma at the MGM Grand in June, is in contention for the Illy Best New Restaurant honor for his NYC Fiamma. Nobu Matsuhisa, who owns Nobu at the Hard Rock Hotel, is a finalist in the same category as Colicchio, All-Clad Cookware Outstanding Chef.

The time will surely come when Las Vegas chefs will take top honors in more than one category.

Short orders

An evening of Ferrari-Carano wines: Imbibe, an events and "beverage brand management company" will host An Evening With Ferrari-Carano Wines at Tony Marnell's smashing Panevino Ristorante and Gourmet Deli on Wednesday. Marnell's passion for fine food and wine is legendary. Event hours are 6:30 to 9 p.m. The cost is $25 and is payable at the door, but space is limited reservations are required. Call 450-0125 or order via e-mail -- Michael@imbibe-bevegas.com. Panevino is at 246 Via Antonio, off Sunset Road and east of Las Vegas Boulevard in the Marnell Corporate Center.

Art Institute's best teen chefs compete: More than $190,000 in scholarships will be awarded to students nationwide during the Art Institute's National Culinary Scholarship Cook-Off competition March 29 at coast-to-coast locations. According to Chef Raimund Hofmeister, who oversees the regional competition, "Best Teen Chef in America," attracts more competitors each year because, "Young people naturally like to eat and are attracted to the creativity and job growth that a career in the culinary arts can offer."

The regional cook-off competition will take place at the Art Institute of Las Vegas from 10 a.m. to 4:30 p.m. For additional information call 369-9944.

Penny buffet special at Silverton: The Silverton will honor April's Fools' Day and their Player's Club members with a breakfast, lunch or dinner buffet for just one penny. No, this is not an April Fools' joke. Call 263-7777 for more info.

Nevada Restaurant Association: NRA has announced the directors and board who will, "Represent and lobby on behalf of the thriving food and beverage industry in Nevada." Officers are: Justin Doucette, Coyote Cafe; Michael Coward, Airport Plaza, Reno; Scott Farber, Emeril's and Delmonico Steakhouse. Directors are: Brad Brennan, Commander's Palace; Karen Dorsey, Ellis Island; Heinz Blaume, Excelsior Restaurant Consultants; Clark Kincaid, Kincaid Consulting Services; Heinz Lauer, Las Vegas Club; Frank Scharadin, MGM Grand; Paymon Raouf, Paymon's Mediterranean Cafe; Sam Facchini, Metro Pizza; John Kukulica, Pacific Restaurant Management; David Alenik, Pasta Shoppe Ristoranti; John Ekizian, Rapscallion Seafood House; Robert Ansara, Ricardo's; Mark DiMartino, Tillerman and the Tilted Kilt; Marvin Price, Tillerman; and Donna Rocker, Tommy Rocker's.

Celebrate Academy Awards-style at Lawry's: Lawry's Academy Awards Dinner Party begins at 5 p.m. Sunday with a champagne reception followed by a multicourse meal with prime rib. Celebrity hosts are KVBC Channel 3's Nina Radetich and Jordan's dad, John Fredericks. "Holiday chic and black tie attire is advised. Lawry's VIP members pay $95; nonmembers, $115. Limited seating. Prepaid reservations are required. Call 893-2223.