Las Vegas Sun

March 29, 2024

Columnist Muriel Stevens: Massachusetts shows how barbecue is done

Muriel Stevens' dining column appears Fridays. Her shopping and travel columns appear Wednesday. Reach her at (702) 259-4080 or [email protected].

If you're hankering for down-home barbecue, Las Vegas has plenty to offer, from Mike Mills' real pit Memphis Championship Barbecue restaurants to many hole-in-the-wall hideaways offering soul food and barbecued meats.

(Mills is the master of pit barbecue and consults frequently for such big-city eateries as Blue Smoke in New York City. Engineering a pit barbecue oven in the middle of Manhattan is no small feat, but Mike helped get it done.)

That said, let me tell you about a barbecue experience I've just had in Somerville, Mass. It was unlike anything that I've found here.

Somerville is a blue-collar community that's rapidly becoming gentrified, yet it's a sure bet that Redbones barbecue restaurant, with its communal tables, reasonable prices, friendly policies and succulent real-pit barbecue, will stay the way it is. And what it is -- a family-owned and -operated eatery with the know-how to put a smile on your face with each bite you take.

Redbones is a place I probably wouldn't have discovered on my own. It's a local secret. Harriett and Seymour Shapiro, the friends I was visiting, live in Cambridge, where there's an abundance of small, good eateries. Many, including Redbones, do not accept reservations, so after much discussion we decided to do takeout, but I would go with Seymour so that I could capture the flavor of the place.

Redbones was exactly as described -- elbow-to-elbow diners, all having a ball. At 6 p.m. the place was packed. Come later than 6 p.m. (except for takeout) and the wait can be a long one. We ordered a full rack of Memphis-style ribs, a pound of Harriett's favorite, smoked beef brisket, corn bread, sides of cole slaw, beans and garlic mashed potatoes and one slice of sweet potato pie.

A sign on the wall advised that free bones were available. We took some home, thinking they would please a neighbor's dog. Instead they pleased us and the dog. Inside the bag were two fresh meaty beef bones, not the retreads we'd expected. We all had some of the zesty meat; the dog got the bones.

None of the four sauces that were included were as good as Mike Mills' sauces, but the meats were so well flavored it didn't matter. Of course, it was too much food for the three of us, so we nibbled and noshed our way through the leftovers for the next two days.

Redbones offers off-site catering that can include having a mobile pit smoker complete with a pit master to finish the meats at the party, and they will slow-smoke a whole pig (or whatever else a customer would like) for 50 or more people. And vegetarian options are available. One menu offering is dubbed Meat & Three: Eat Your Veggies. Included are a small portion of meat or fish or chicken and three sides. Most barbecue places don't even acknowledge non-meat eaters. Light eaters can order one perfect rib -- $3 to $4.

And there is a refinement at Redbones that is seldom found at neighborhood joints. The menu advises, "Please, if the food or service is unsatisfactory, let us know and we will adjust your check. Just tell anyone on the staff."

For more about Redbones go to redbones.com.

Las Vegas students win scholarships: Two Community College of Southern Nevada students, William Nicolotti and Heesoo Hwang, have been chosen to receive scholarships to the 2003 World Pastry Forum, which precedes the Inniskillin Icewine 2003 National Pastry Team Championship presented by Cap'Fruit.

An honorary scholarship has been awarded to CCSN pastry chef and teacher, Rudy Eichler. Eichler and his students will attend classes and seminars led by international luminaries of the world of pastry and get to view the championship finalists in action. The Forum and championship events will take place at The Rio. The championship competition taking place July 4 and July 5 is open to the public. For tickets and other info, visit pastrychampionship.com.

All food service employees using an employee ID card can purchase a discounted ticket package ($75) that includes general seating and admission to the trade show demonstrations by America's leading pastry chefs. Tickets may be purchased at the registration desk at The Rio's Pavilion Conference Center Monday through Thursday and at the door July 4 and July 5. Checks, cash, MasterCard and Visa accepted.

Fourth of July food events:

Lake Las Vegas resorts: Barbecue, live music and fireworks are just a few of the highlights of the July 4 festivities at Lake Las Vegas. For this first Red, White & Blue Barbecue Bash, area residents can enjoy a gorgeous lakeside setting and more.

Kokomo, "America's Ultimate Show Band," will kick-start the festivities at 6 p.m. at the Pontevecchio Park. Hot-off-the-grill foods include such barbecue favorites as tri-tip beef, hot dogs and chicken along with potato, pasta and Caesar salads and All-American apple pie for dessert. Kokomo will play until sundown.

At 9 p.m. the skies over Lake Las Vegas will be aglow with a "spectacular" red, white and blue fireworks display. After the grand finale Kokomo will return until 10:30 p.m. Admission to the barbecue is $18 for adults; $8 for kids 5 to 12 years; tots 4 and under are free. Barbecue tickets can be purchased on the day of the event (reservations not required); entertainment and fireworks are free to the public. Parking is available at the MonteLago parking building.

Rampart Casino at the Resort at Summerlin: Rampart Buffet will offer an all-day barbecue feast from 11 a.m. to 9:30 p.m. Featured at the American serving station will be barbecued baby back ribs and chicken, smoked beef brisket, hot dogs and hamburgers, smoked sausages, fried breast of turkey and barbecued smoked salmon. Special dishes will be offered also at the Mexican and Chinese stations. Ramparts's July 4 buffet is priced at $8.99 per person.

The gracious Carmel Room will offer a select July 4 menu that includes broiled, barbecued or blackened ahi ($24), marinated, barbecued rack of lamb ($28) and other specialties. Reservations are recommended. Promenade Cafe will serve barbecue fare beginning at noon. Each restaurant will serve its regular menu as well.

Montecristo Rum: Montecristo Rum is offering recipes and a $5 discount at all Lee's Discount Liquor stores now through the holiday weekend at all locations. Bikinis Beach Girls will provide samples of the libations at the Sunset and Lake Mead locations at select times. Montecristo Rum is an award-winning local product that was launched more than a year ago. More signature Montecristo cocktail recipes are available at montecristorum.com.

Rush Hour rotisserie at Sonio's: You don't have to be in a rush to enjoy Sonio's award-winning rotisserie chicken, but the new Rush Hour Carry-Out Special would make a fine meal for July 4. The special is available Monday through Friday from 4 p.m. to 7 p.m. Included for $13.95 are a cut-up rotisserie chicken, pita bread, a choice of two large homemade side dishes, cinnamon twists and Sonio's special, chips and salsa. Additional large side dishes are $3.95 each. Order by phone -- 870-5090.

An Evening With Angelo Gaja Wines at Panevino: Space is very limited for this special event taking place at 6:30 p.m. July 15 at Panevino Ristorante and Gourmet Deli at 246 Via Via Antonio, one block east of Las Vegas Boulevard on Sunset Road at Gilespie.

A master sommelier will present the outstanding wines of Gaja. Wines will be paired with a five-course dinner that includes such fine Italian specialties as a filet mignon with chocolate sauce and a Cabernet reduction paired with Gaja Renina Brunello and grilled quail with a cilantro-honey Port wine infusion paired with a Gaja Berolo Sperss. Also featured are Gaja Rei Chardonnay, Barberesco and a reception sampling of Ca'del Bosco Italian Sparkling Wine. Wine dinner price is $200 per person, payable in advance. Reservations are required. For information call 263-8145 or email [email protected].

All-you-can-eat snow crab legs at Mama Jo's: Monday nights are crab leg and pasta night at Mama Jo's on Green Valley Parkway at Pebble Road. The price, $19.95, includes house salad and bread.

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