Las Vegas Sun

March 28, 2024

Epicurean Affair leaves throng hungry for more

The evening of June 17 was a hot one by the pool at Caesars Palace. But it wasn't hot enough to deter approximately 2,500 determined eaters who arrived in force for the 13th annual Epicurean Affair.

This was a gala food event complete with chocolate-covered models sitting in tubs of molten chocolate, spear-toting centurions, celebrity chefs such as Roy Yamaguchi and Richard Sandoval and enough food and drink to feed a small nation for a week. The affair is sponsored by the Nevada Restaurant Association, and the proceeds from the event go to a special scholarship fund. The ticket price, $100 in advance and $125 at the door, seems like a bargain in view of what was offered. And the organization was sharp, with a grassy area for dining at picnic tables and lots of space between the various food booths.

Despite the 100-plus-degree temperatures, which faded slightly as the evening wore on, the bacchanalia raged full force from 7:30 p.m. on. Delicate fare was kept cool in small refrigerator units, and health inspectors crept about to be sure that the proper food temperatures were maintained.

The relentlessly creative, dazzlingly exotic foods, though, were the real stars of the show. Near the front entrance was a display from Richard Sandoval, a Mexican-born chef, whose cuisine is Nuevo Latino. Sandoval is about to open in Treasure Island.

He has a pair of Big Apple restaurants, Maya and seafood restaurant Pampana, plus places in San Francisco and Denver. His partner is famous Metropolitan Opera star Placido Domingo.

And his food was a smash. One of the dishes was a pan-seared tuna taco with a chile dear bol and sesame seed sauce. The other was a shredded duck taquito on a jicama salad. The food was so inspiring, patrons were probably in the mood to rush right out and buy Sandoval's book, "Modern Mexican Flavors," published by Stewart, Tabori and Chang.

Sandoval wasn't the only celebrity chef there, of course. The globe-trotting Roy Yamaguchi of Roy's was there, handing out vegetable handrolls wrapped in nori seaweed, ready to be dipped in Sriracha (a Thai chili sauce) and aioli, a garlicky French mayonnaise. Lutece's David Feau came in from New York to serve his signature foie gras in chocolate sauce.

From Caesars Palace itself, celebrity chefs Bradley Ogden, from the restaurant of the same name, and Jean-Marie Josselin, of the Pacific Rim-themed 8-0-8, were also in attendance, serving a number of interesting foods.

Ogden had a charred Monterey prawn and crab salad with a spicy honeydew melon soup -- crowned by a toasted onion cracker -- and, to go along with it, tequila snow cones flavored either with wild berries or fresh cherry.

Josselin, meanwhile, was serving food assisted by his 10-year-old boy, one dish being a miso-marinated sea bass, another a tomato consomme with rock shrimp. He is a wonderful chef. Formerly of Hawaii, Chef Josselin now makes his home in La Jolla, Calif.

One of the most creative displays of the evening came from The Rio Suites and Casino, all put together by The Rio's Executive Chef William Becker and a large staff.

While reggae music blared on nearby loudspeakers, people had the chance to down smoked salmon lollipops, naan bread rolled around flank steak, shrimp and corn tacos and an amazing confection Becker called his raspberry squirt -- cream and raspberry puree packed into a clear, triangular plastic pouch.

A chef would cut off the narrow end, and the entire shebang would then be squeezed into the waiting mouth, creating an unforgettable taste sensation.

This event, by the way, didn't lack for decadence. There were beautiful models galore, from the PEM Agency, mostly adjacent to displays involving alcoholic beverages. Some sat in giant glass birdbaths, representing Wet by Beefeater, a gin infused with 17 varieties of pear essence.

That aforementioned chocolate-covered model, a la Shirley Eaton in the film, "Goldfinger" (with molten chocolate substituting for the gold), was there to represent Godiva. She sat in a tub of chocolate, guarded by a stern-looking Caesars Palace centurion.

Mixmaster supreme Tony Abou-Ganim from Bellagio was there, too, surrounded by beautiful models and handing out watermelon margaritas and one of the signature drinks he makes, a primo margarita, a combination of lemon, lime, Cointreau, and Herradura Silver tequila.

Southern Wine and Spirits was there, represented by its special events director, Michael Severino, and the approximately 20 brands they distribute. And so was Effen Vodka and Just Desserts, a company that makes cream liqueurs with flavors such as creme brulee and chocolate chip cookie.

The list of chefs and restaurants stretched on and on, too, making it impossible for anyone to really taste everything available at the event. Prana, the new multimillion-dollar Vietnamese fusion restaurant in Desert Passage, was there, along with Helene An, the woman who created the concept. An was cooking lamb chops, Vietnamese style, as well as her famous garlic noodles and foie gras with a banana chutney.

One of the more unusual participants was the new, all-vegan Go Raw Cafe, 2910 Lake East Drive. The raw foods they were serving included a sprouted bread pizza, fudge made from carob, fruit and nuts, and burritos stuffed with an almond mousse.

From downtown, Hugo's Cellar was there with two retro classics, the Queen's lobster and chicken Hugo, made with cream, pine nuts and basil.

The biggest lines were probably at the booth from Smith and Wollensky, where beefeaters waited up to 15 minutes to have a crack at the restaurant's pepper-seared filet of beef. Emeril's served grilled ahi tuna with braised leeks. Commander's Palace served an amazing crawfish gazpacho.

And let's not forget Spago, which had one of the most appealing booths of all, including a morel mushroom pizza, insalata Caprese shooters, summer rolls with Thai peanut sauce, and delicious crisp rice treats on Popsicle sticks. Space won't permit all the restaurants that participated, but just a few more include Panevino, Gaylord India, Rosemary's at The Rio and Zax at the Golden Nugget. Most of us can't wait to come back next year.

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