Columnist Muriel Stevens: Count on N9NE to deliver delectable goods

Friday, July 25, 2003 | 8:14 a.m.

Muriel Stevens' dining column appears Fridays. Her shopping and travel columns appear Wednesday. Reach her at (702) 259-4080 or muriel@lasvegassun.com.

N9NE restaurant at the Palms should be renamed "Ten," in celebration of the changes that have taken place over the past year.

Credit Executive Chef Brian Massie, Executive Sous Chef Barry Dakake and the staff for the bold flavors and food presentations that have transformed this formerly "pleasant" steakhouse into a vibrant dining experience.

My dining companion was celebrating a milestone birthday and is a meat-and-potato man who had never dined at N9NE. Dinner at N9NE was my birthday present to him. After dinner we would attend the launch party of VEGAS Magazine (a new publication from the Greenspun Media Group, which also is the parent company of the Las Vegas Sun).

The Palms has become party central for celebrities, trendsetters and those who follow any trail that leads to entertainment nirvana and bare navels. As a woman of a certain age, I hardly fit the profile. Still, it is an amusement like no other.

We were not the only ones dining at N9NE before the party. There wasn't a table to be had, yet the service was excellent. We barely had time to visit with the steady stream of table-hoppers. We chatted between bites of savory tuna tartare presented in twin pastry cones. Accompanying the tartare was a sublime, citrusy Maine lobster salad ($13). Crispy Carolina rock shrimp with two dipping sauces ($12) and seared tuna carpaccio with a spicy ponzu sauce ($14) made believers of us.

Our salad, heirloom tomatoes, sweet onions and Roquefort cheese with a mellow balsamic vinaigrette ($9), titillated all the senses. So simple. So good.

We consulted about the entrees. I deferred to my friend, who hungered for a slab of beef, though I usually opt for fish or seafood. N9NE has a lovely selection of fish and shellfish, along with a pasta and a Maine lobster risotto. A Kobe burger -- freshly ground Kobe beef, applewood smoked bacon, aged Vermont cheddar, grilled red onion, the mandatory fries and house-made ketchup, is a generous meal ($25). Most of the dishes are generously portioned and could be shared.

Two double rib lamb chops ($31) were so large they were perched on the plate as if they were birds in flight. We clipped the wings of these high fliers with one bite of the succulent meat. A 22-ounce porterhouse ($37) meant for one carnivore could easily serve more, especially with side dishes.

Have the kitchen slice the steak and it arrives perfectly carved, oozing pink juices and ready to be devoured.

With minor tweaking the selection of side dishes ($8 each) would make most vegetarians happy. The combination of cheeses -- Gruyere and colby Vermont cheddar -- used in the macaroni and cheese was enriching and satisfying. Shavings of Parma ham covered the top of the bubbling-hot casserole.

Among the selections are a decadent "loaded" baked potato, unctuous with butter and creme fraiche, bacon, chopped green onions and the Vermont cheddar and a topping of buttery Parmesan crumbs; roasted seasonal mushrooms combined with caramelized red onions; Yukon gold potato puree enlivened with a grating of pungent fresh horseradish.

There's more. George's creamed corn is named for Palms chief George Maloof. When he requested creamed corn, Massie came up with a dish made from hand-cut fresh corn that was so good it's now available daily. Massie's crisp potato gnocchi in white truffle cream is another original -- traditional gnocchi are poached, then pan-seared to give them the crunch.

Had it not been a birthday celebration we would have passed on dessert. I had ordered a small cake with one candle. Instead, Executive Pastry Chef Victor Solono celebrated the birthday with a selection of desserts that destroyed all good intentions for us and those dining around us who got to taste the fab desserts, too.

Presented on a free-form tray of marble (it took two servers to carry it to the table) were a scrumptious, mousse-like strawberry shortcake; creme brulee; small cakes, cookies and tarts and house-made candies that were irresistible. It was a perfect ending.

Later, at the two parties that followed, the same kitchen and staff that had already prepared hundreds of dinners at N9NE served thousands of hot and cold hors d'oeuvres to more than 2,000 guests.

We, of course, did not eat. Our dinner at N9NE had been memorable.

Short orders

Charlie Palmer showcases chefs: Premiering tomorrow night at the Stirling Club at Turnberry Place will be Mark Purdy, the first of 11 executive chefs who work in various Charlie Palmer-owned properties. Purdy is the executive chef at Dry Creek Kitchen in the Hotel Healdsburg in Sonoma, Calif. Dry Creek Kitchen made its reputation by using only Sonoma food products and wines. Purdy was formerly executive sous chef at Aureole Las Vegas, and is married to one of the high-flying wine angels.

The six-course dinner, paired with Sonoma wines, is $95 (not inclusive). Seating is limited to Stirling Club and dining club members and their guests. Call 732-9700 for more information.

Opportunity Village Ices fund-raiser: How sweet it is. Opportunity Village will receive a portion of the proceeds of ticket sales from the 2003 International Cake Exploration Societe (ICES) show taking place at The Rio Pavilion Thursday through Aug. 3. Cake decorators and sugar artists from the world over, vendors and instructors will attend. Public admission is $5. For additional info call (407) 365-6224 or go to ices.org.

Prana becomes Crustacean: The An family, owners of the celebrity fave Crustacean restaurants in Beverly Hills and San Francisco, will tag their Las Vegas restaurant at Desert Passage at the Aladdin with the notable Crustacean name. The gorgeous nightclub will remain Prana. With such name brand recognition, the change to Crustacean is a wise one.

Wolfgang Puck eateries welcome kids: Spago at the Forum Shops at Caesars, Postrio at The Venetian, Chinois at the Forum Shops and Trattoria del Lupo at Mandalay Bay now boast speciality children's menus designed by Puck and his young sons, who know all about good food. The settings may be haute, but the dishes are such "time-tested" childhood favorites as Puck's kid's pizzas, chicken fingers, grilled cheese sandwiches and more. Parents of children with special dietary needs have only to let the server know in advance. A terrific, tasty idea. No fair stealing the kid's desserts. Order your own!

National Marina Day: Callville Bay Resort & Marina will host its annual celebration of National Marina Day Aug. 9 at Callville Bay. Joining in the family oriented festivities will be all 11 marinas and boating facilities situated in the Lake Mead National Recreation Area. The action begins at 10 a.m. and continues until 4 p.m. A $5 donation is all it takes to participate. Money raised will benefit the Outside Las Vegas Foundation, devoted to environmental issues.

Donation price includes a barbecue offered from 11 a.m. to 1 p.m. with hamburgers and hot dogs, potato salad, chips, cowboy beans and a beverage. Among the activities are fishing demonstrations and a fly-casting contest for kids with prizes; Forever Earth open house with displays, including the B-29 Beetle Bomb discovery; a children's art contest (all of the art will be displayed) and much more. According to Callville Bay Food and Beverage Manager Jamie Lieurance, the snack bar is open daily from 7 a.m. to 6 p.m. offering All-American breakfasts, sandwiches and salads and catering for houseboats. For directions to Callville Bay and more information, call 565-8958.