Columnist Muriel Stevens: A cool time can be had in San Diego

Wednesday, July 16, 2003 | 8:22 a.m.

Timing is everything. Las Vegas weather was less than 100 degrees the day I departed for San Diego. It was mere chance that I escaped the infernolike temps that followed for the delicious cool of La Jolla, Calif.

It had been a long time since my last visit to San Diego, and I was ready to play tourist. My travel companion was willing and ready. Our first stop was to the San Diego Convention & Visitor's Bureau (call 619-232-3101 or visit sandiego.org) for maps and such.

Downtown San Diego has become a sophisticated area with unique architecture, new, almost high-rise apartment buildings, funky shops and an abundance of ethnic restaurants. There is nothing sterile or contrived. It's upbeat and original.

One day we visited Old Town State Historic Park and made our way through the history of Old Town by walking to the visitor's center, where a glass-enclosed model of the original town was on display.

We walked through many of the stores and chatted with friendly shopkeepers who were garbed in the attire of the era. Each shop was previously a pioneer's home. The legend of the home is outside on a story board, a fascinating read. We laughed as we found merchandise we thought had been lost to time.

"Everything you ever knew is still being made. You just have to know where to look," volunteered the owner.

See Old Town first, then enter the magical world of Bazaar Del Mundo just steps away. Bazaar Del Mundo is a dazzling kaleidoscope of lush gardens, masses of flowers, fountains and "Early California ambience," complete with colorful shops and a variety of eateries.

Created in the early '70s by businesswoman and interior designer Diane Powers, Bazaar Del Mundo is a glorious celebration of Old San Diego's rich Hispanic heritage. Ongoing entertainment and community events take place in the plaza. The shops are filled with quality merchandise from around the world. Bazaar Del Mundo is an enchanting, happy place.

We had a joyful lunch (read Friday's column) at the venerable Casa De Bandini then made our way to the San Diego Museum of Art at Balboa Park where "Degas in Bronze: The Complete Sculptures" is on display through Sept. 28. A beautiful show. The SDMA is but one of many museums in San Diego.

Balboa Park is filled with museums, gardens and other points of interest, including Japanese gardens and The Tea Pavilion, a casual cafe with a spacious patio. Orders are placed at the counter; the food is brought to the table.

It was a lovely warm day with just enough cool air to encourage us to linger over a cup of tea. We sipped and sunned and left with just enough time to make our next stop, a foreign film at the Hillcrest Theater, another landmark.

In spite of what appears to have been a busy day, we were relaxed and happy. We had planned well and never were more than a short distance from our next destination. After the movie we dined at Bombay, an Indian restaurant, and took a brief walk through this hip community before taking the short ride back to La Jolla.

San Diego: It's a splendid vacation choice for outdoor types and Sybarites.