Columnist Muriel Stevens: Mariposa impresses with welcoming dinner

Friday, Jan. 31, 2003 | 9:07 a.m.

Muriel Stevens' dining column appears Fridays. Her shopping and travel columns appear Wednesday. Reach her at (702) 259-4080 or muriel@lasvegassun.com.

A "Welcoming Dinner" hosted by Neiman Marcus General Manager Teri Mansour at the new Mariposa restaurant was a delicious introduction to fine dining a la NM.

Executive Chef Jacques Van Staden is a superb chef who has studied the world over and has mastered Asian, Middle-Eastern, American and European cuisines. The dinner he created represented a bit of them all.

Neiman Marcus Cafe, a more casual eatery, was the setting for cocktails and hors d'oeuvres. When dinner was announced we made our way to the lovely Mariposa. The view from Mariposa is smashing.

On the top floor, surrounded by showcase windows, diners have an unobstructed view of the surrounding area. Just about every table offers a view.

The chef made a big splash with his amuse bouche, a little extra tidbit. This little bite really was amusing, and delicious and so was the presentation -- a small pastry enclosed in a graceful "hand." The savory Asian filling was so good.

A smoked-salmon salad had swirls of salmon surrounded by small Belgian endive leaves and osetra caviar. The presentation was lovely. To offer risotto to so many diners at one time could be risky, but undaunted Chef Jacques presented this Mariposa signature dish as if it were easy.

The white-truffle infused risotto marbled with a wild mushroom fricassee was divine. We could have stopped there and been content, but we would have missed the exceptional pan-seared ahi tuna atop braised fennel. Seared lightly, the ultimate tuna was rosy-pink and so delicate.

The final course, a roasted lamb chop, was another revelation. Like a bird in flight, one thick lamb chop, with the bone stripped bare, had been wrapped in green bands of leek until it was completely encased. It was surrounded by a heady wine and truffle juice reduction.

Since the chef is constantly changing the menu, I can't tell you how many of these dishes (except the risotto) are on the latest carte.

Dessert was a creme caramel flan accompanied with elegant poached pears and an orange blossom coulis. It was, indeed, a welcoming dinner.

General manager for both Mariposa and the NM Cafe is the ever-gracious Claude Cevasco. Emilio Monchiero is the captain.

More Mariposa: Mariposa serves lunch and dinner. There are a number of Middle Eastern specialties on the lunch menu at Mariposa and NM Cafe, including the chef's special antipasto and meze platters for two or more people, cold and hot sandwiches, soups and salads and a delightful selection of international dishes and desserts. The vanilla bean panna cotta is a silky custard with an unforgettable flavor.

Mariposa is open for lunch Monday through Saturday, 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. Dinner hours Sunday through Thursday are 5:30 to 10 p.m.; Friday and Saturday, 5:30 to 11 p.m. For reservations call 731-3636.

NM Cafe hours: Monday through Friday, 10 a.m. to 8 p.m.; Saturday, 11 a.m. to 7 p.m.; Sunday, noon to 6 p.m.

Valet or self park.

Wolfgang Puck's Chinois at the Forum Shops celebrates the Year of the Ram: In celebration of the Chinese New Year beginning Feb. 6, five-course, family style dinners have been created by Chinois Executive Chef Joseph Brennan. These Chinese New Year feasts, $38 per person (does not include tax or gratuity), begin with steamed shrimp wontons with Hong Kong dipping sauce, followed by curried longevity noodles (tradition says the longer the noodle, the longer the life of the slurper) with Asian vegetables. Pan-toasted lobster "ravs" (ravioli) with crisped spinach follow.

For the main course, New Year's diners may choose from Mongolian-style beef with jasmine rice or banana leaf-wrapped halibut with glazed asparagus in oyster sauce. For dessert, Buddha's Hand sorbet with lychee fruit and fortune cookies.

Seating is limited, so those interested in the Chinese New Year menu should reserve a table in advance. Chinois' regular menu is also available.

For reservations or more information call Michael Yi -- 737-9700.

The Chinese New Year dinner is available only at Puck's Chinois at the Forum Shops at Caesars, not at any the other Puck properties.

According to the Chinese zodiac those born under the Ram sign are "gentle, sincere, kind-hearted people who admire nature and are constantly trying to create a tranquil environment." Happy birthday to all who are celebrating during the Year of the Ram.

Short orders

Surprise birthday party: A surprise birthday party for Steve Wynn included more than good friends, good wishes and Wynn's wife and partner, Elaine. The birthday bash, hosted by Larry Ruvo (Wynn's best buddy) and his wife Camille, included appetizers and dinner prepared by Thomas Keller owner/chef of the renowned French Laundry restaurant in Yountville, Calif. Keller will soon become a presence in Las Vegas. His Bouchon restaurant will be part of the new luxury tower at the Venetian.

Lindo Michoacan open: Lindo Michoacan Mexican restaurant on Desert Inn Road has reopened. A short while ago the longtime local favorite was forced to close after a devastating kitchen fire. A colorful new sign completes the exterior. Call the restaurant for more information -- 735-6828.

Montana's at Boulder Creek Golf Club: Boulder City has a new full-service restaurant; Montana's at Boulder Creek Golf Club. Montana's menu features the cuisine of the Southwest and is open daily for breakfast, lunch and dinner. Among the many specialties are: pastas; hardwood-smoked or grilled dishes, including skirt steak, pork chops, chicken and seafood and full slabs of barbecued ribs. For more information call owner Xavier Montanas at Boulder Creek at (702) 294-6538.

New food specials at Castaways: Pelican Rock Cafe at the Castaways has been remodeled and expanded is offering a number of 24-hour specials. Steaks and brews for two are $12.95 -- included are two 18-ounce T-bone steaks and a bucket of four beers. Among the other well-priced specials are prime rib, chicken-fried steak, steak and eggs a monster 20-ounce burger. Prices start at $1.95 and top out at $6.50.